I need to replace the timing belt and the oil trap.

1) should I do the timing belt by taking off all the steering pump, alternator, etc... and the accessory bracket, so I can get to the bolt to replace the oil trap? Meaning do I do it as a single project or split it into 2 jobs a Oil Trap project one weekend and Timing Belt at another?

I don't feel confident enough to do the timing belt by removing everything to get to the oil-trap at the same time; NOT at least on the same weekend project. Is this a realistic fear or it's much easier than I thought?

2) I read up on the "notching" the accessory bracket to get to the left oil-trap bolt. I saw a post with a picture of the notch. But that seems to require a special tool to notch it. Please advise on this subject. -- Also, someone mentioned a Volvo Special tool to get to the "left bolt" Anyone knows what this tool looks like and/or name of it etc.. so I can look it up? Of course, I don't care about breaking the old trap off; but putting the "left bolt" back on to install the new oil-trap is the issue here.

3) Given I have all the basic mechanical tools, even air compressor at home. Is there a MUST HAVE tool REQUIRED to do the timing belt? (I already got the belt, pulley, tensioner, and accessory belts. So the parts I have, just the special REQUIRED tool if any that I'm worry about.) I don't want to end up without a car for my wife on Monday.

 

Check out 75 ohm's timing belt replacement page. The only must have tool I had to locate was a regular depth 30mm socket.

 

I just did the oil trap only. Here's my story. This is only about how to get to the left/hidden bolt on the oil trap. You have to read up on the other threads on how to get to the oil trap, like removing the throttle body and etc... Oh, don't forget to get a throttle body gasket and some carburetor cleaner to clean the throttle body before you reinstall.

I thought I could get to the left 10mm bolt by using special tool. I bought a swivel head 10mm wrench from AutoZone; that didn't work. I got the tool on the bolt, but unable to turn. Then I went to Sears and bought an offset 10mm wrench; same thing, got the wrench on the bolt, but no room to turn.

Imaging even if I get the bolt out, I wouldn't have room or leverage to install the bolt back on. Therefore, I follow the direction on cutting the accessory bracket. So I broke the oil trap off to get to the bolt. Search this forum on oil trap replacement and you'll see the instruction for it.

As for my 2000 s80, the accessory bracket was a L-shape in structure, it's not a solid piece as it appears from the front. I used a Sawzall (reciprocal saw) to cut 2 lines, then use a vise grip to break it off (or you can use a punch and hammer to knock it off). I had to bend the blade to cut (you'll know what I'm talking about if you decide to do it). I cut the one side of the L-shape, but not the other side. When I put on the new oil trap, I used one of those teeth washer to hold the left side bolt onto the new oil trap before I install it.

Bottom line: there's two way to replace the oil trap. 1) remove all the accessory equipment to remove the accessory bracket to get to "the bolt". or 2) break off the oil trap and notch the accessory bracket to reinstall "the bolt".

Given I'm not a mechanic and have done this, I prefer option 2 above. Your choice!