Stuck brake?
A friend helped me replace the rear rotors (brake discs) and pads on my 2001 v40 last night. We had trouble pushing the piston back in on the caliper but after a trip to the autoparts store to get the right tool, it was a piece of cake.
The brakes felt fine when I left his house and I tested them with some (not severe braking). When I got closer to my house I noticed a rubbing noise as I braked which got worse and worse. I got out and looked at the wheels altohugh it was dark, and couldn't see much wrong. It sounded like the inside brake padcould be missing , the scraping noise was pretty bad, but it didn't feel like it was.
I pumped the brakes a bit and then tried to pull away to see if that had helped. The Driver's side rear wheel was locked and dragging the tyre along the tarmac. I walked the last 2 miles home.
It seems that the brake was tightening up with each press of the pedal and not releasing. I pressed the pedal enough that it is now locked on the rotor.
Does anyone have an idea of what might cause this? The other side seems fine. We followed the Haynes manual and did the same on both sides. I am a bit worried that I may have damaged the new rotor or pad. I am also worried that we damaged the piston in the caliper by trying to turn it with pliers before we got the correct tool. In my defence the Haynes book said you might be able to move the piston with a pair of pliers.
Any ideas how I will be able to move the car now it seems that one brake is fully on?
I would really appreciate some advice. I was hoping to save some money by doing this myself, the mechanic quoted $400. I bet now he will charge me more than that to fix my mistake.
Thanks!!!
The brakes felt fine when I left his house and I tested them with some (not severe braking). When I got closer to my house I noticed a rubbing noise as I braked which got worse and worse. I got out and looked at the wheels altohugh it was dark, and couldn't see much wrong. It sounded like the inside brake padcould be missing , the scraping noise was pretty bad, but it didn't feel like it was.
I pumped the brakes a bit and then tried to pull away to see if that had helped. The Driver's side rear wheel was locked and dragging the tyre along the tarmac. I walked the last 2 miles home.
It seems that the brake was tightening up with each press of the pedal and not releasing. I pressed the pedal enough that it is now locked on the rotor.
Does anyone have an idea of what might cause this? The other side seems fine. We followed the Haynes manual and did the same on both sides. I am a bit worried that I may have damaged the new rotor or pad. I am also worried that we damaged the piston in the caliper by trying to turn it with pliers before we got the correct tool. In my defence the Haynes book said you might be able to move the piston with a pair of pliers.
Any ideas how I will be able to move the car now it seems that one brake is fully on?
I would really appreciate some advice. I was hoping to save some money by doing this myself, the mechanic quoted $400. I bet now he will charge me more than that to fix my mistake.
Thanks!!!
Hi Nick,
The question to ask is whether your old brake discs were warped or just worn? It sounds like your brake caliper is seizing up and damaging the brake discs irreversably. If your old brake discs were warped then, I think, your caliper is to blame.
Even if you damaged the boot with the pliers then, firstly, you would have noticed that and, secondly, it would not have had such an immediate effect.
Hope this helps
The question to ask is whether your old brake discs were warped or just worn? It sounds like your brake caliper is seizing up and damaging the brake discs irreversably. If your old brake discs were warped then, I think, your caliper is to blame.
Even if you damaged the boot with the pliers then, firstly, you would have noticed that and, secondly, it would not have had such an immediate effect.
Hope this helps
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Obelix
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Jun 20, 2022 08:40 AM




