I have a 2005 V50 with stock 55w H11 halogens and I can hardly see with these bulbs. Are there any good, bright LED replacements that won't cause a bulb failure message? What are you using, what do you recommend?

 

No experience with this with my Volvo V50 (long since sold) but I would caution you to make sure that you find "bulbs" (kind of a misnomer) that have single high-power LEDs mounted at the same point (relative to the mating surface of the housing) of the original halogen bulb. That will mean that it'll "focus" like the old bulbs, which will mean that the light is actually going down the road where it'll do some good, instead of out in all random direction where it blinds oncoming drivers AND dramatically reduces your ability to see down the road (since you're driving in a "light bubble" with less light than you started with going down the road.

I've bought LED headlights that claimed multiple times the output of a halogen, only to return them because they were clearly dimmer than the originals (and worn out originals, at that).

That said, I did buy LED bulbs (high-low style) in (IIRC) H4 format for some aftermarket (Euro-spec) halogen housings on my XJ Jeep Cherokee (1996). I measured the output, and was happy to see that the claims of the manufacturer were essentially true - with my phone-based lumen meter, I saw a dramatic improvement in light output - AND color, which went from the typical yellow-ish to a daylight, but not blue tint, and this without any effect on the "focus" of the headlights. Thing is, the old Jeep doesn't have fancy schmancy circuits that monitor headlight (or any other) current, so it's not going to throw a code. You may end up just having to install resistors so the "pair" (LED and resistor) draw enough current to keep your car's nanny computer happy.

Here are some photos relating to the above that might give you some good info...

 

I have two concerns about LED bulbs as a replacement to Halogens

1) the LED bulbs may not have the same output pattern as the stock bulbs and may not match up to the lens.

2) LED bulbs are more efficient and use less power which may cause the "bulb out" warning light to come on. You may need to add a resisitor or use a kit that is designed for your car that prevents that.

Also, LEDs and other aftermarket bulbs may be a different color light vs halogen - they may be whiter or have blue tint which may appear brighter against a garage wall, but they wont be brighter 100 feet down the road...

 

I recently acquired this V50 and found when driving at night I could hardly see up the road with the yellowish low-beams,but could see quite clearly with the high-beams. I pulled out the headlamps and found stock halogen H11s in low-beam positions and LEDs in high-beam positions. The LED high-beams do not trip a BOW so I ordered a set of the same brand LED low-beam bulbs. I'll find out tonight how they perform.

 

post up how you make out.

 

Also check the alignment of the low beams. If they're not aligned properly, the results are going to be poor no matter what else you do.

And - I'd sincerely recommend doing an A/B comparison of the projection pattern after changing the first bulb for the new LED (much like my photo above, with the headlights shining on my garage door). That will just ensure that the LED bulbs you bought are actually compatible with the halogen bulbs they replace (resulting in a good focus, and not the myriad of issues I whined about above).

 

I installed the LED low-beam "bulbs". These lights DO set a BOW. The light was very white & bright but had a center dark spot. I also adjusted the lamps a bit higher. Out on the road a few vehicles passed in opposite direction seemingly not bothered by these lights I was less than impressed but admit they are brighter than the halogens. If it were not for the center dark spots I would be good to go with them, I think.
Following are some pics.

Halogen low beams

Left halogen, right LED

Both LED low beams

Halogen low beams combined with LED high beams

 

That's really odd... did the new LED bulbs have the LED element at the same place as the halogen bulb's filament (see my photo above to see what that looks like)...

If the two sources of light are coming from two different positions, you're going to have two different results.

 

When I installed the low beam LEDs I twisted the bulb around to various positions but that did not affect the pattern. It did not appear to matter which direction the LED was pointed. As you can see from the LED pattern on the garage door, the LED light is significantly brighter than the halogen and has a well-defined pattern except for the dark circle at the center. I think the shape of the end of the LED causes the dark circle. Her is a link to the LEDs I used; . . These did cause a bulb failure message. My next step is to try these; . As you can see, the end of the bulb is different.
To clarify, my high-beam LEDs work great and do not set a failure message. They are also equipped with cooling fans, the low-beams I tried did not have fans, just a heat-sink. The low-beam LEDs I will try next, with the different shape, have cooling fans. Whether they cause a failure message or not is a concern. Seallight does make a "decoder" for cases where a bulb failure error occurs.

 

The Volvo bulb out system - usually only cares about (and will give an error message for) the low beams, rear parking lights and the brake lights. You can put aircraft landing light bulbs in the high beams and only the oncoming cars will care! (I had those in a 1969 Alfa GTV - and they were bright!)

 

That depends on the Volvo, A BOW will appear for turn bulbs, any parking bulb, high beams, low beams as well as daytime driving lights. This must be model dependent as I have seen all the BOW messages mentioned. I once had had a customer return somewhat angry as she had complained of a BOW, I had changed the offending bulb but did not realize there was also a daytime driving bulb burned out. The daytime driving bulb warning only comes on once the vehicle "sees" daylight. I failed to see that message as the vehicle was in the shop for the repair. I have also seen many cases where the message is not resolved by simply replacing bulbs but requires VIDA to clear the headlamp fault before the message is cleared and the bulb to function. I have had many instances where customers come to the shop saying they changed bulbs but the lamp still doesn't work. These required connecting VIDA to clear the fault.

 

Are you LED bulbs longer than the halogens? Maybe *just the tip* of the LED bulb is eclipsing the light beam.

 

Hmmm... my previous post just disappeared after submitting it.

Anyway, the OP missed my previous point. If the "light emitting bits" of the two bulbs aren't in the same position when installed, the focus will be different.

Just hold the original halogen bulb in one hand while you're scanning the 'net for an LED replacement. Make sure you get one that looks like the one in your hand, with the LED element at the same point / direction, etc. Look at my photos for how that works, and how that ended up producing the same beam pattern from the halogen to the new LED.

 

As I stated before, the first set of low-beam LED bulbs did not matter how I twisted and turned them in the socket, the pattern remained the same regardless of the direction the LEDs pointed. My disappointment was with the dark circle in the center and the warning message, otherwise they were nice and bright. I just received the second set of LED bulbs and installed them. They have a nice bright well controlled pattern with no dark center spot, and better yet, no bulb failure message.

Second set LED low beams

Second set with high beams on

 

Let me try this one more time... the position has nothing to do with the rotational position of the light-emitting bits, but the distance from the bulb seat. If the measurement isn't the same, the focus will be different.

 

Okay, I understand what you are saying. I did not compare that aspect of the bulbs, but, all-in-all, I like this second set. They really light up the road and do not interfere with oncoming traffic. I believe the difference is the shape at the end of the bulb. The second set being smooth and flat as opposed to flaring out at the end.