Volvo V70 Super capacity, super looks, super performance... this wagon turns heads and can still get the job done.

My 1st check engine light came on today

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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 09:27 PM
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turbo matt's Avatar
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Default My 1st check engine light came on today

Hopfully it will be the only one on this car!!

1998 V70R AWD. I stopped by autozone and had them read the code. It was for secondary injection or air injection fault (something to that extent) what the heck does that mean? The Autozone dude said it had to do with some kind of vacuum leak??? I don't trust those dudes but I do not know any better so I thought I would ask. It does not run rough or idle funny.

It illuminated shortly after I flipped the air condition on.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 10:21 PM
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Default Get a code reader of your own

Hello, Do you have the exact code? The secondary air injection system might have more than one code which it can generate. The system consists of an air pump (fan in a plastic box), a check valve (the SAS valve which can become stuck) and tubing which connects the two and carries the air to the catalytic converter. Lots of posts about the SAS valve sticking resulting in water accumulating in the fan's box. Kira
 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 10:25 PM
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Default **** dude

Mine comes on everytime i start my car and goes away in about 3 min. its prolly and o2 sencer or a small vacume leak... but if it was that it would run a little weird and you would notice it..
 
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 06:49 AM
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after I [posted I went and did a search. I am going to check the air pump under the front bumper and then trace and follow the vacuum lines. I have a bunch of vacuum hose (different sizes) in the garage from my turbo Mustang left over so I plan on replacing a lot of the vacuum lines in and around the engine.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by turbo matt
Hopfully it will be the only one on this car!!
Thanks for the laugh. Man, these old cars get those all the time. I usually don't even flinch when I see one. Just read it and reset the thing. I don't even look for a problem unless it comes back on.

This system is so sensative that it pops the CEL every time the car hichups.

I also think it has something to do with the air pump. Look for Vacuum leaks or that stuck valve. My 960 pops that code every once in a while. I think I found a split vac line last time. It was an elbow. Got it from the steeler for $11. Should have gone elsewhere for $3.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 11:47 AM
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OBD2 Universal Diagnostic Scan Tool Auto code reader got this on ebay for £21 works and resets codes on my 1999 volvo s40 t4
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 08:44 PM
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Default I gots to know...

Hello, You simply must tell us what the code number was. Find anything? Kira
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 09:20 PM
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Sorry it was P0410 Secondary Air Injection! It's the darn Air Pump if I had to guess. Any way to rig it up where it won't read it and not trigger a light? I do not want to pay $400+ for a new one and it breaks again in 2 years. If you get an upgraded IPD ECU or one of the others can they turn it off?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 12:16 PM
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I don't think so. Are you sure the pump is broken? The easiest way to know is to start the car while cold and see if the pump turns on. It usually only runs for about a minute. If it does not work then it's likely the pump. But I have cleared that code with fixing a vacuum leak.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 12:21 PM
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well if it is not the pump then it's a vacuum leak somewhere in the system. I plan on running some new vacuum lines all over the car this weekend.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 08:53 PM
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Default I'll save you some reading

Hello, I've read that the SAS valve (check valve mounted high at firewall, near the center-line of the car) sticks and allows moisture laden exhaust gases to enter the fan's housing. If it works or if you get a new/junkyard unit then it's advisable to drill a 1/8" hole or two in the bottom of the housing. The fan puts out enough oomph to blow out any moisture and still do it's job. Posters also say to change the SAS valve as that's the cause of the trouble. I don't know if it can be cleaned with solvent or not. Also, the air pump in our cars is shared with Volkswagon and can be had for less. Hope some of that helps. Kira
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Georgeandkira
Hello, I've read that the SAS valve (check valve mounted high at firewall, near the center-line of the car) sticks and allows moisture laden exhaust gases to enter the fan's housing. If it works or if you get a new/junkyard unit then it's advisable to drill a 1/8" hole or two in the bottom of the housing. The fan puts out enough oomph to blow out any moisture and still do it's job. Posters also say to change the SAS valve as that's the cause of the trouble. I don't know if it can be cleaned with solvent or not. Also, the air pump in our cars is shared with Volkswagon and can be had for less. Hope some of that helps. Kira
got a part number for it...I need to look into it?
 
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