So, on Thanksgiving Eve my car ('98 V70 AWD auto w/ 155k) started to run rough. It felt like a clear misfire in one of my cylinders. So on Saturday I replaced my plugs and wires (need them anyways) and started it up and still ran rough. I drove to my mechanics house, about 10 miles away and we put a compression tester on and found cylinder 2 with about 40 psi of compression. Put another tester on and ran shop air through it and found a nice draft coming through the tailpipe, nothing through the throttle body. We then rotated the engine 360 and there was still that draft. [sm=boohoo.gif]

It would certainly seem I have a bad exhaust valve(s). My question now is with a fairly high mileage turbo engine should I...
1) Pull the head off and send it out to a machine shop and install new valves?
2) Buy a new engine with less miles?
3) Or set it on fire?

Also, what would the cost be to have head work done, not including labor for removing and reinstalling the head?
Or if I bought another engine could I swap in a R series engine? And what are the differences? Injectors, fuel pump, trans issues, etc? I don't think I would do it, but if it's straight forward then I might consider it, if I could find a R engine.

I think that replacing the engine would be the most viable considering that my turbo is pretty tired and with 155k doing all that head work and having something else do wrong seems like a lost cause. The vehicle is also in relatively good shape. What do you guys think?

 

I would just pull the head and have the valves replace. I would expect you to pay about 2k for the entire job.

 

So if your estimate is about right @ 2k, then why not spend $1100-$1400 for a lower mileage engine? I'm having a tough time trying to grapple with paying 2k(ish) for head work when only more could (and probably will) go wrong. And 2k for head work does seem a bit steep.

I live up in MA and I was wondering if you knew any reputable Volvo specialists where I could potentially send the head or even get a reman'd head from?

Anyways, thanks for you help tech.

 

Well I suggested the head because if someone else is doing the job then it will be about 2k Total.

If you go the used motor route then the $1400.00 would be just for the motor. Then if you had to pay for the labor add about 22 hours of labor at anywhere from $80.00 an hour up to $100.00 then it adds up fast.

If you will do all the work yourself then you can go either way its all up to what you want to do.

Sorry not sure of a shop as I am in Florida.

 

Well, first thanks for the input. I will be doing some of the work myself but I will be at my mechanics/friends house and he'll help me; though not for free but for far less than $80+ an hour.

I'm just trying to figure the best course of action and I was planning on keeping it for a while.

Also, what interchangeability is there among the engines? Say, if I wanted an engine out of a 99 S/V70 turbo?

 

The 94-98 models will work. The 99 and up motors I would not use. Also the 99 and up have VVT as well.

Im not sure which motor you have but there is atleast 2 different turbo motors. There is a white sticker under the hood that will have it.
It will be like a B5234T or something like that. Try to get that one if you go the motor route.

 

Ok, so I think I've made a decision to not go with replacing the engine and instead just repairing or finding a remanufactured head. There seems to be more work involved with replacing the engine than I'd care to think about.

So, does anyone have any recommendations for getting a reman'd head online, or a number I can call? I found ADC cylinder heads online and I was curious if anyone has dealt with them.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Try searching for a used one.
There is a site I don't remember but I know someone on here does for good used parts.

 

Thanks for the input. I've been making some calls and searching around for a head (reman'd or used). Is there anything I should need outside of the head gasket, head bolts, manifold gaskets that I might need? Oh and my engine code, just for more clarity is B5254T. Thought it might be nice to know.

 

That should be most of it.
If the t-belt is old I would do that as well since it will all be off as well.