I lost most (all?) of the electrical functions fused on the rear fuse/relay panel of my 2007 V70. (Rear wiper, remote locks, rear window motors, backup lights, etc.)
If I can find a used fuse box to replace the current box, is it as simple as just replacing the defective box, and going on my merry way again?
Or, is there some magic that needs to occur before a replacement box will work or communicate with the rest of the electronics?
Does a replacement box need to be an exact part number match, since most that I see on Ebay are identical in appearance and fusing? I do see one that is a match (30786646).
Any input or guidance would be much appreciated, since a local mechanic wants $1400 for solve the problems.

 

Usually used modules are not plug and play. They are tied to the VIN of the car. If the module does not see that VIN (in other modules) it does not work. You can discuss that possibility with someone like xemodex who can "program" a used part to work in your car, or simply fix yours..

https://xemodex.com/us/product/rear-...epair-service/

The price you have been quoted is reasonable - for a new module and the software download needed to make it work.

 

Thank you, Hoonk! That's very helpful.
It looks like they might be able to get me out of this mess by repairing my box for a lot less than paying for a new one with programming, etc.
I found a used box on Ebay that matches my part numbers almost exactly which I'm going to order (just because it's there), and then call around to some of the local shops and the Volvo dealership, and ask what they'll charge to program it for me.
That should be interesting!
If it's too expensive to get it done locally, then I'll have the repair route with XeModex as an ultimate fix, hopefully.
Thanks again for your help. This forum can be a valuable resource because of knowledgeable guys like you.
I hate feeling helpless at anything, but automotive electronics are way over my head now! I remember the days when you could solve just about any electrical problem with a screwdriver and a crimping tool...

 

A "local shop or a dealer" WILL NOT be able to program a used part for you. You are wasting your hard earned money buying a used part when you already have one!!

 

I've been talking with a technician at XeModex a few times about my best options (Pre-programmed vs Repair vs Software transfer from my module to a salvage unit)
He's telling me that I should wait, and see if I get lucky enough to have a software match in the module I ordered with identical part numbers when it arrives.
That almost sounds too easy and unlikely, but hope springs eternal. The tech said it's not common to find a used module with matching numbers like I found.
The tech also said that corrupted software is pretty uncommon- suggesting that you are right about just sending my REM to them for repair for $400+. (The matching module I ordered is $70, so I thought it was worth the risk at this point, and I can always return them.)
If that doesn't work, another approach could be to have them transfer the software from my module to the one with the matching numbers (almost exact match). That would be the lowest cost approach.
Or, just have them do a repair on my original module, as you suggest. I'm investing hours of effort into an attempt to minimize my costs, and it's getting old!!! At least I'm learning a few things along the way. Learning about XeModex from you was a major gain.
A weird thing that I don't understand is why I have the exact same functions and losses when I install the $30 salvage module (numbers don't match).
I lost the rear wiper, door locks, rear window motors, backup light, lockout function. I still have turn signals, and running lights. That probably makes sense to you?

 

The only thing common with those items is the 60 amp fuse in the E fuse box. There are so many things attached to the REM I really doubt that's the problem. The first step for me in a diagnostic process would be a scan with a compatible scan tool -

 

I checked all of those E fuses early in my scattershot process, and found that all of the wires coming out of that E fuse box have voltage. There's also voltage at the connectors into the REM which I suspect are powering the box (thinking that there might be an open somewhere, or a bad connector).
The import shop I took the car to told me that he "couldn't establish communication" with the REM. (And all of that for a bill of $151) Did he maybe not do a thorough enough scan?
When I get the used REM with the matching part numbers, and if I don't get lucky enough to experience a complete solution with that box installed, are you thinking it might be worth taking the car to another shop, and ask for a better scan before I go the $400+ repair/pre-programmed route with XeModex? It would be disturbing to pay for a repair, and then find out there was some problem outside the REM!

I should have mentioned early on that I've had a parasitic draw that I was never able to locate, so when I wasn't going to drive the car for a few days, I would disconnect the negative battery terminal. All of this weirdness started occurring shortly after I- once again- tried to find that draw by sequentially pulling the fuses in the dash fuse box and the REM while watching for a drop in the leak amps. I found nothing, but something went wrong, and it might have been related to pulling fuses. But I had done that before with no negative effect. I've also gone back, and checked all of those fuses for continuity, and they were fine.

I appreciate your continued input, Hoonk. I could have taken the easy way out, and dropped the car off at the dealership, but I just can't afford a big bill for repairs if there's any way I can avoid that. They want $900 just for a new REM!

 

Did you ever get this resolved? I am having a similar problem....all 4 REAR parking lights aren't working intermittently. I am getting a VIDA/DICE to troubleshoot further.
Thank you!

2005 XC90 2.5T AWD

 

Thankfully, yes I did, nealco.
After spending a lot of time and wasting some money at a local shop trying to get the problem diagnosed, I finally just did a 'Hail Mary', and bought a used unit on Ebay. I don't remember all the specific details, but I was careful to order a used unit that had the same, or very similar part numbers to my original box. Plugged it in, and everything was back to normal with no programming or any other complications or difficulties experienced. Almost seemed too easy after everything else I had tried.

 

Ok, good to know. Thank you Dapperdan, I'll try to do the same. Appreciate your help.

 

If you can't find a part on ebay, try searching car-part.com for recycle yards with your model/year to see if they can find that part for you. One yard to try is Erie VoVo, which as the name suggests is a yard that specializes in Volvo parts.

 

Sounds good. Thank you!