All the bolts are off, but the power steering pump and the huge metal bracket or plate that surrounds the alternator will not budge, it will pull forward and back, there are no more bolts, but will not lift to put power steering on engine to take the alternator out, are the two lines that go to the power steering to rigid to lift this out, I really do not want to take them off. Thanks anyone!

 

Hi I just replaced my alt. on my C70 . I had to remove to 2 top bolts from the starter and loosen the lower starter bolts and let the starter hang loosely from the the bottom bolts. it really helps to remove the power steering pump.
I do not know if we have the same type of engine but this worked for me !

Cb

 

We finally figured it out, on a v70 1998, there was one last bolt at the very bottom of the huge metal bracket...this was discovered after taking the tire off and pulling back a fender skirt or whatever you call it, it is almost impossible to get to, ended up detaching radiator hose to manifold and after 30 minute got the last of 4000 bolts out. This bolt is the final bolt to the alternator...Power steering was completely unbolted by this I mean every bolt that was in it 4 or 5, we were able to leave the lines on without taking them off...now I have an entire Volvo to put back together...at least 10 bolts, possibly the two tensioner bolt that go to the bracket could have stayed on. So if you decide to do this(don't) get ready for at least 6 hours of work to get it off if you are a novice like me and don't have unlimited tools, the 12 mm socket is used on most bolts you will need various lengths though, some bolts are accessed by spinning the power steering pump flywheel holes to get socket in, but that final bolt that CANNOT be seen only felt is the hardest. You will also have to improvise for the belt tensioner, it could require a special tool but I made do with a Auto Zone tensioner $25 deposit(they can have it, I'm keeping it) but you have to find something that will fit in the 3/4 in square peg hole in tensioner, then turn it with a belt tool, in other words I used one old bolt that would fit in the tensione hole then screwed on another bolt that would fit one of the various fittings from the tensioner tool, you will pull toward the front of the car to get serpentine belt off.

 

These 2 DIYs should have helped you:

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...r-replacement/

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-v70-13/alternator-bad-if-so-how-easy-replace-36180/

RE: SERPENTINE TENSIONER TOOL.

Here is my $1.00 solution that I have used for 10 years:

1. Go to any hardware store and buy 2 metal plumbing plugs with the square head being 5/8".

2. The reason for 2 metal plumbing plugs is that:
- one for glovebox (in case you need it thousands of miles away from home) and
- one for your garage's toolbox.

3. Grind opposite sides of the threads flat with either:
- Bench Grinder
- File (yes you can file by hand)
- Belt Sander (turn the belt sander upside down for ease of use).

4. Then use this tool with an adjustable wrench.
It works every time for me. And the fit is perfect in that square hole.

Here is what it looks like. Hope this helps:

 

Please let AutoZone know you wish to purchase the adaptor so they will order a new one so the next forum member who wishes to use the AutoZone tool won't be left short!

Jerry

 

Went to Lowe's and got this part for less than $2...worked wonderfully for getting the serpentine belt off, however, there is no need to file the threaded ends off from the sides if you have a pipe wrench...I used my Irwin and it worked like a charm. Tip for anyone removing the belt though...you will not be able to pull the belt off from the center at the alternator. With one hand holding the wrench down from above, get underneath the front of the car and grab the belt from the bottom pulley. It should slide right off, then you can easily remove the belt from all the other pulleys.

 

I don't understand the need to remove the starter to get to the alternator?

Thinking about this. Hmm. alternator shares mounting with the A/C compressor. 1/2 ratchet is used on the tensioner. Must remove the power steering pump, and a few other thinhs on the accessory mounting bracket. Pretty straightforward simple job. Still puzzled with the starter removal as mentioned.

 

After performing all the normal test while the alternator was on the vehicle, we determined that the alternator was bad. So two hours later we got it off but not the shop is saying the alternator is GOOD. And it may be something with the "Relay"? Does anybody know anything about where the Relay and or fuses are for this problem??

 

Here's mine. It was free. It's a lugnut with two opposite vertices ground slightly. The distance across the flats fits perfectly inside the tensioner. I may weld a handle on it, but for now I'll use a wrench on the unmodified flats.

 

I'm currently taking out the alternator in my 96 850 GLT. Similar. The last bolt you needed was the alternator bolt which was accessible through a hole in the plate (between pulleys) of the power steering assembly. I have yet to put it all back together; I imagine a long cursing struggle.
The post to loosen the tensioner is NOT a 3/4 square hole. My 3/4" piece of steel would not fit. It's the slightly smaller metric equivalent. However I was able to move the tensioner with channel-locks enough to get a pin in and hold it in place.
Any hints/help from someone who remembers the problems overcome in putting everything back together would be much appreciated.

 

That hole is about 14.5 mm edge length. Your best bet - get a block of aluminum and machine it down like I did. Then just use your 15 mm wrench to turn it and then a small allen wrench to hold the pulley in place.

I did it in my C70 which has the same engine. Believe me, that tool has helped me a lot!

 

Here is a video. Have any of you looked at it?