I seem to have the same problem as many do with time and have followed the recommendations of Phil.Crawford1 and JamesG posted over 8 years ago. I can insert my switchblade style ignition key into cylinder lock and turn to position I and no further. The steering column unlocks and accessories come on but the car will not shift out of Park. I removed upper and lower column covers, located the small square cover plate on the underside of the cylinder and used a Dremel tool on the pin-punched areas of the cylinder's potmetal. It took a little more grinding than mentioned in these threads to finally be able to pry the plate loose. I was only able to lower the plate about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch, just enough to look inside with the help of a very bright flashlight. I found no metal pieces loose inside and the key would still not rotate further. Some have said that just simply lowering the plate allowed them to start their car. Not me. If you pull the plate down too far I found out that it makes it very hard to turn the key in any direction. So, having relegated myself to shoveling a lot of $$ towards our Volvo dealership to fix my problem, I pushed the plate up not going completely back to original manufactured position. Now feeling a little worked up I tried to rotate the key again one last time and with just slight extra effort the key turned and I was able to start the car. I tried this several more times with no problems. I plan on leaving the plate as is and am wondering if this will cause problems later?
Thanks for any advice!!

 

UPDATE - After 6 starts I now cannot get the key to go to position I. I have a DICE unit with 2014D and would like to know if I can purchase a subscription and program a new key myself? I have seen that lock cylinders with keys are available from Tasca.com for about $200 + shipping.

 

I have/had the same issue as many, many Volvo owners have had but no one on this forum seemed to have a definite fix. After reviewing dozens of YouTube videos, reading numerous blogs and carving up my existing cylinder lock, I ended up buying a new cylinder lock from a Volvo dealership in Phoenix for $295.00 and it comes basically "plug and play." The tumblers are pre-set so that I can use my existing key and it comes with a dummy key that is pre-cut. I gave up on trying to get Tasca Volvo to respond to my parts request. After all this and not having a car for over 3 weeks I uncovered a helpful YouTube video that has so far solved my issue. (knocking on my head) TAKE OUT THE RELOCKER PIN!!! There it is. The secret is out! Three days no with no problems whatsoever. I don't know what that pins does, other than cause you to not to be able to turn the key, but the column still locks and there are no problems turning the key with the pin out. I hope this helps others to be able to get their Volvo back on the road a little quicker than it took for me.

 

I’ve been there before. Maybe it’s about time I replace mine as well. After being stuck a few times. It dawned on me to ask my “wife”, what she was doing differently when she would start the car. She says, push the key all the way in and turn. Not just stick it in and turn. 😳

Car starts up. Of course, like many, you want it to go in easy-turn and go. At the same time, I think I’ll ride it til I can get that $295 part🤯😵

 

I am having the same problem with my 06 V90. Can you please post a link to the YouTube video regarding the relocker pin. Thanks
Chris

 

I will search through YouTube and see if I can find it.

 

I found one on YouTube. The applicable part of the video starts at 4:30 and only last for a few seconds. All of the other parts of it are just interesting to watch. Hope this helps!

 

Thanks, that is helpful. Did you have to take the whole ignition assembly off the car or can you access the relocker pin from under the dash?
Chris

 

Since I was replacing the whole assembly I removed the pin with the assy out of the car. When I think back, I believe that"s about the only way to get to the pin. But Volvo didn't make that easy on you. The assy is held in place by 2 T40 "tamper proof" screws. The heads of these are designed to shear off at a specific torque. In order to remove them after they have sheared off requires you to grind a notch into the top of the screw. This will allow you to use a flat head screwdriver to unscrew them. I don't remember that being too hard. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disk.Attached is an info sheet on that procedure. (In this procedure they talk about removing the multi-function switches and steering wheel. I found that unnecessary. Extend the steering column all the way out and drop in down. That gave me plenty of room.)
https://automotivetechinfo.com/wp-co...0-V70-XC90.pdf