For starters, Is there anyone who knows of a service manual for these XC90's? I see Haynes has one in UK but does not cover Petrol only diesel.

I am familiar with this type of repair, so manual would have been helpful, but not needed. Our truck just came out of warranty last year, so now I am the mechanic on this one.

Diagnosis: I was getting a slight clank when hitting a bump or curb on the left side. I knew all the upper lower ball joints in control arm were replaced under warranty so figured it was tie rod. To confirm I was able to move the wheel once car was up and could feel the play in the tie rod.

First, Jack up truck. I went under control arm and then put in two jackstands once in the air.

Remove wheel, in was 19 or 20 mm, and put wheel under car just for extra safety.

for the removal of the nut I used a 1/2 drive and breaker to get started, but not needed. I think the specs are approx. 50ft lbs so this was not an issue. Once the bolt is loose the tie rod will drop a little and then the bolt would spin with screw since the resistance of the control arm is gone.

I am not sure if there is a special tool, but I took a pair of vice grips and was able to grab the base of the cone of the tie rod and was able to secure. Then removed the nut.

Observations: Unlike GM and others, the tie rod connects with nut on top, not on bottom. It also is not a castle nut, so no cotter pin removal needed. I did use some liquid wrench prior to removal since this part was a little rusty.

Once the bolt is off, I put the tie rid back in place and threaded the nut back on. This was to loosen the locking nut at the connection of the inner/outer tie rods. Again, I did use some liquid wrench due to rust. I moved the nut 1/4 revolution and then went back and uninstalled the tie rod.

At this point I used a box wrench to hold the inner tie rod in place, (there is a flat spot for this) and then unscrewed the outer tie rod. I was able to do this by hand, but did need to use a wrench to help a little.

Once the old tie rod was off I cleaned the threads with some wd40. I then moved the locking nut back the 1/4 turn I had loosened. Make sure to hold the inner tie rod at the flat spot when installing the outer tie rod so it does not turn. This should go on relatively easy and should end pointing up, or off a quarter turn due to loosening the locking nut.

Once you have the tie rod back on and up to the locking nut, I put blue Loctite on the threads and installed back into the control arm and hand tighten. I then torqued to 50 ft lbs. I have seen 44 -58 ft Lbs listed for this part. If anyone has the exact specs, please let me know. The nut didn't move between 40-55 ft lbs so I am sure I am within spec.

I am not a fan of no castle nut so I will be checking for any movement in the connection after a few days. When I completed repair alignment still seems right on, but I am not going to take any chances. Alignment is always needed after this repair.

My truck had 87K miles and the left front tie rod was bad. Since an alignment is needed after this repair I replaced both and would recommend this for anyone replacing tie rods. The right one had some play, but was not bad. In any case, why pay for two alignments and with two new parts you will get better steering, alignment, and tire wear.

Parts: Since this is my wife's car she stated only Volvo parts can be used. There are a bunch of cheap pieces out there, but I would only go OEM of high end aftermarket like Lemforder (not sure if I spelled this right).

My Local dealer (Oak Park, IL Volvo) wanted 115 for each tie rod at retail pricing if I wanted to pick it up. They had the parts online for approx. $6 each plus shipping $20 and do not allow picking up the parts. I always like to let them know how much I disagree.

There is another Volvo Dealer (Lisle, IL) which is approx. 15 miles away that does allow pickup of parts bought online. I paid $66 for each tie rod plus tax for $141 total. At this price it does not make sense to go anything but OEM.

What did the dealer want for this repair: $280 for each side, plus $125 for alignment for a total that would have been over $700 with tax.

I will be done with repair with Alignment for $200. There is a local shop I refer a lot of business to so they give me a break, $60 for alignment and they have the latest machine.

Note and disclaimer: If you do not know what you are doing, this is not a repair for you. You are messing with the steering connection and mistakes are not an option. Complete repair at your own risk.)

Sorry I didn't add any photos. Please feel free to reply if you have any questions.

Again, anyone with shop manual information, please let me know.

 

It really isn't that difficult. Its one nut.

And yes, it is more to pay to have someone do it. Just like everything else in the world.

VIDA is the service manual. You can get copies on eBay.

 

it isn't that hard (i've done the job on several cars, not volvo but it's pretty much the same on all cars) but sometimes ball joints don't want to come out. i've been amazed at how much force can be required to get them out sometimes.