The images did not come over cleanly.

 

The procedure is does refer to another procedure apparently, called Oil Level, checking, so it probably has you starting the engine. I've seen other threads where some don't start it with no problems and some cars don't require starting the engine. But most do, as it makes sense that you need to keep the TC filled.

Also, researching fluids, it appears that viscosity is the main difference. The AW1 I cannot find specs but it is a low viscosity fluid, for better mileage. High mileage fluids have higher viscosity. I think mileage is the key driver for the AW1 at the expense of reliability IMO. The 3309 is higher viscosity. I just bought a 2008 XC70 and it was just flushed. But I don't know what fluid was used, and it has a slow shift 2-3 under load. I've read the fluid change can fix this. Also I was cruising at 85 in the desert and the trans temp warming came on. After cooling off I cruised at 80 no problem. Then after about 1000 miles, I was cruising at 80 at only about 65 ambient and the trans temp warning came on again. So I backed off to 75 no problem. But this worries me, because the fluid is breaking down, possibly wearing the trans excessively. I'll try 3309 first and hope it fixes it. If not I'll try a slightly higher viscosity (Castrol import has one with about 8 instead of 7.1 at 100C). They all list the specs in their data sheets.

 

If you have the transmission fluid temperature warning coming on then you definitely have a problem. Either you are low on fluid causing what is there to superheat or some other problem.

Over the years, I have read dozens of threads about transmission fluid. Rather than follow the manufacturers' recommendations, someone is always trying Crisco, Bisquick, cotton seed oil or Marvels Mystery Oil in an attempt to "one up" the factory. A 2008 Volvo XC70 would use 3309.

 

Well I got into it and drained 6+ qts, and flushed it per the procedure, and then added just over 3 qts. total (2 qts and 1.25 more with engine running) So it was 3 qts overfilled. And it smelled like toilet bowl cleaner. Supposedly it was recently flushed, and it is recorded in the Carfax. But they did not disturb the oil cooler lines, or the drain. I had to remove the level plug with a punch to get loose. I could not get the oil line removed from the oil cooler, and it was very tight clearance, so I just used a long clear tube hooked to the transmission end of the line.

Now it just has about a half sec delay before shifting 2-3 under load or high engine speed. It used to start to shift, pause, then shift. So there is still something causing a delay. Maybe a solenoid? I am going to try disconnecting the battery to see if it will reset it to default. I've heard of this fixing transmission issues on other cars.

And the air filter screws were all stripped, as were most of the belly pan screws. Doesn't surprise me.

 

Unhooking the battery will do nothing other than require you to reset your clock. If you want the computer to relearn the shift points, you have to get the transmission up to operating temperature and then with an appropriate scan tool you have to start the relearn process. We use a certain driving loop here that has a good mix of stop and go as well as highway driving to reset the transmission.

 

I do most of my own wrenching but didn't have time right now so I took my 96 4Runner to my longtime and trusted mechanic. This guy is old school and extremely good at what he does. He is not a "Parts-changer" but a real mechanic and the best carb guy around and there is a waiting list to get in his shop. He is currently doing the timing belt, water pump, and valve cover gaskets for me. When I dropped my rig off I asked if he would go ahead and do a transmission flush and fill? He looked at me and said "HELL NO!, I won't do it. You don't need to unless you just want to replace your transmission and have money to burn. the best oil for 6.7 cummins A transmission shop will but I don't recommend it ever." He refuses to say that most people who routinely change transmission fluids have transmission failures more often than those that don't and can list off examples. He says unless there is an underlying mechanical issue there is no reason to ever change your tranny fluid. I've also heard this before but not from my best mechanic until this week. Thoughts??

 

To put it bluntly: “don’t poke the bear.” Just say, thank you (for the advice) and either do it yourself or find a specialist. In my area, there is a transmission specialist who has clients. who race rally/dirt track, and maintenance contracts for truck fleets. We don’t agree on everything we discuss, but he explains the needed details based on what he’s found in transmissions he’s actually torn apart, and he’s been my go-to transmission tech for more than a decade. Someone like that who has actually torn through a number of different high mileage transmissions and actually rebuilt them would be good to work with for you… although, might be difficult to locate.

HINT - if your transmission is operating OK right now, a fluid change almost certainly won’t hurt at all. The main things to do on the first fluid change in a high mileage transmission are to get the crap out of the sump, and replace enough of the fluid to refresh the “additive pack” that’s in the factory spec fluid.

By the way, Usually in the sump of a good, high mileage transmission you find some (maybe a lot of) tailings from initial manufacture, and clutch mud. Inexperienced, uninitiated techs will claim the tailings and mud are evidence of whatever is their favorite horror revenue generating scenario. Ummm, no. What you do then is clean sump out, maybe put a nice strong magnet in the sump, replace filter and top it off with fresh fluid. Usually the problems with the first flush on a high mileage transmission, I am told, are two things. If the transmission is good, the power flush can stir up a lot of crap *unless* you first do an initial flush, filter change and fill. Some of the techs with machines don’t want to do that, and instead will leave the pan on. Also on a high mileage transmission especially, you have to change the filter twice. First time is after the flush and fill and before the power flush. Second is after the power flush is done. The other thing is, usually what motivated someone to bring in a high mileage transmission for that work is some problem with the transmission that they surmise the power flush will fix… which is, well, just wrong as no power flush will fix a mechanically damaged transmission. The customer may even lie and say nothing is wrong when a test drive before the flush usually reveals there is. So in self defense many techs will just say thee are such and such problems with flushing high mileage transmissions. Those techs are not necessarily wrong but as with most things in life, there are details and they are not right in every single case.

Bottom line, this is why my advice is, “don’t poke the bear.”

 

…in VIDA there are links to other parts of the procedure, those links provide info on the temperature and on resetting the transmission’s “counter” which is part of how adaptations are managed.

…people using these instructions alone would as likely as not end up in a world of hurting.

 

thank you so much for your suggestion

 

on the 6 speed Aisins, theres is a two part drain plug. The center plug leaves the fill tube in place, the outer pulls the tube out to allow a full drain. The fill level is set by the inner fill tube and the "warm" fill level is set when the transmission temp reached the target temperature. If I recall its 55C. Typically techs have access to VIDA/DICE which will report this in the run time data. Since the tranny fluid expands as it warms so when you initially fill the transmission cold, the fill tube will drain to the cold temp level. Do a driving cycle and when the transmission is warmed up, you simply open the center plug and the drain tube will now set the warm level. You can find some vids on Youtube that demo the procedure.