Hello, I know this is a near-impossible question to answer. I have a 99 V70 with 185,000 kms/115,000 miles. I am the second owner, since 2015.

Car is nearly rust free. I've maintained it quite well, making what repairs I could and having the local Volvo shop do most of the work.
AC does not work.
Exhaust has had a few patch and weld jobs but will need to be replaced from the Cat back.
Parking brake is finished.
Slight coolant leak, perhaps 1 litre a year.
Steering rack feels stiff, does not return after turning a corner.
No dashboard warning lights.
It is due for the timing belt and water pump to be replaced.
Rear bumpler mounts need to be replaced.

The AC, the exhaust, and the timing belt are all things I'd want to address. But none of them I can manage on my own. Thus, I go to my local Volvo mechanic and pay the going rate. Depending on the AC and exhaust I could be looking at $2000-$3000. I'd be fine, if that was all there was, as I haven't spent a lot in the past few years. But, I'd be putting that money into a 21-year-old car that has seen 20+ Quebec winters with tonnes of salt and tough road conditions. All kinds of things could start popping up, brake line rubber rotting out, rusting gasoline tank, the heating core might be the location of my coolant leak.

It's been a great car.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Roy in Montreal

 

The total price depends on how much you can do yourself now. Fret the future when it gets here as 185kkm isn't that much.

1) "AC does not work." How so? The AC compressor clutch is likely the worn part. If you can remove your alternator the AC compressor is right below it. You can have the AC evacuated at a shop. Have a replacement ready and swap 'em. Then have the system recharged at that same shop. Evac/recharge should be $60 -$80.

2) "Exhaust...need....Cat back." Least of your woes as the earlier V70's have cat back systems waiting for you in warehouses. At your mileage I would reuse your oxygen sensors. The upstream one will not be involved with a cat-back installation but the rear (or downstream) one will. Remove the downstream sensor and transfer it to the new pipes. Use higher temp anti-seize on the threads so you can more easily remove it when the time comes. Again, the 185kkm isn't that much. Don't let some mechanic talk you into replacing the O2 sensor before it's time. A cheap unit might be installed and that alone can create a difference and light the light. Always buy Volvo or DENSO O2 sensors for these cars.

NOTE: In all likelihood the front O2 sensor goes first and that won't be until ~240kkm.

3) "Parking brake is finished." If the backing plate was destroyed by whirring broken parts, then yes, there'd be a headache as there'd be no place to attach things. Otherwise just replace the brake parts. You might want to inspect the parking brake cables at that age. I don't use the parking brake so I'd make the old cables do if I could. Yours may be gone so a decision might be looming.

4) "Slight {1l/yr} coolant leak". Heater cores are routine. Check your oil for mocha or mayo colored froth. That'd means the coolant is mixing with the oil. Ergo that's an internal leak and may spell big, deciding repair. However, your leak is more likely it's a compound of leaking hose junctions or a failing radiator. Look for wetness along the radiator's edges where the side tanks and core join.
Also, a small coolant leak can have a "snowy residue".

5) "Steering rack feels stiff, does not return after turning a corner." I'm no expert here but have you tried COMPLETELY replacing your PS fluid with Pentosin CHF-11S? If the fluid is red (transmission fluid) ABSOLUTELY give a fluid replacement a try.
If your fluid is black and neglected, shame on you.
Maybe do this first as freed-up steering will encourage you.

6) "No dashboard warning lights." Be grateful for that. This is a selling point were you to decide to dump it. You wouldn't get much for a 21 year old car to begin with I suppose but no lights would make a willing buyer more willing. If you have a code reader, plug it in anyway and see if any codes are pending. Not every reader has this capacity.

7) "It is due for the timing belt and water pump to be replaced." T-belt and related hardware, yes. Water pump, no. Volvo water pumps go through to the second timing belt change. Is your 21 year old coolant still dark blue? That needs to be replaced. If mud or rust exit your radiator perform a system flush. Do this coolant refreshment and/or cleaning after you locate your leak.

8) "Rear bumper mounts need to be replaced." Replace them. Were they hit by something or did they rust away? Have you seen them yourself? I have never given such a thing a thought.
Over 15 years ago I replaced the rear bumper brackets on a Jeep XJ. Those folded metal parts were $18. I have no idea what holds our bumpers on.

Good luck with your car....Me? I'd fix it. All the stuff you mention is just maintenance.

 

Amazing response!!! Thank you for the time and thoughtful answers and questions!

1) "AC does not work." How so? The AC compressor clutch is likely the worn part. If you can remove your alternator the AC compressor is right below it. You can have the AC evacuated at a shop. Have a replacement ready and swap 'em. Then have the system recharged at that same shop. Evac/recharge should be $60 -$80.

Yes, this I can handle. The compressor doesn't engage, not when cold nor when the engine is at temperature. The new compressor runs $400-600. Perhaps I can have the system recharged to determine that is indeed the issue?

2) "Exhaust...need....Cat back." Least of your woes as the earlier V70's have cat back systems waiting for you in warehouses. At your mileage I would reuse your oxygen sensors. The upstream one will not be involved with a cat-back installation but the rear (or downstream) one will. Remove the downstream sensor and transfer it to the new pipes. Use higher temp anti-seize on the threads so you can more easily remove it when the time comes. Again, the 185kkm isn't that much. Don't let some mechanic talk you into replacing the O2 sensor before it's time. A cheap unit might be installed and that alone can create a difference and light the light. Always buy Volvo or DENSO O2 sensors for these cars.

NOTE: In all likelihood the front O2 sensor goes first and that won't be until ~240kkm.

I replaced both O2 sensors. Front one went first. My OBD diagnosed it. Believe it was a Denso

3) "Parking brake is finished." If the backing plate was destroyed by whirring broken parts, then yes, there'd be a headache as there'd be no place to attach things. Otherwise just replace the brake parts. You might want to inspect the parking brake cables at that age. I don't use the parking brake so I'd make the old cables do if I could. Yours may be gone so a decision might be looming.

Cable is gone. And so if the idea of repairing it. :-)

4) "Slight {1l/yr} coolant leak". Heater cores are routine. Check your oil for mocha or mayo colored froth. That'd means the coolant is mixing with the oil. Ergo that's an internal leak and may spell big, deciding repair. However, your leak is more likely it's a compound of leaking hose junctions or a failing radiator. Look for wetness along the radiator's edges where the side tanks and core join.
Also, a small coolant leak can have a "snowy residue".

Engine oil is okay. Very slight coolant smell in the cabin from time to time.I'll check the hose junctions and radiator.

5) "Steering rack feels stiff, does not return after turning a corner."
I'm no expert here but have you tried COMPLETELY replacing your PS fluid with Pentosin CHF-11S?
If the fluid is red (transmission fluid) ABSOLUTELY give a fluid replacement a try.
If your fluid is black and neglected, shame on you.
Maybe do this first as freed-up steering will encourage you.

I have not replaced the PS fluid. I will check it in the daylight tomorrow. It is worse in cold temperatures. Yes, I'll try this first and hope for a bit of encouragement!

6) "No dashboard warning lights." Be grateful for that. This is a selling point were you to decide to dump it. You wouldn't get much for a 21 year old car to begin with I suppose but no lights would make a willing buyer more willing. If you have a code reader, plug it in any way and see if any codes are pending. Not every reader has this capacity.

I have the OBDII Blue Driver code reader. Works pretty well. I'll run it tomorrow as well.

7) "It is due for the timing belt and water pump to be replaced." T-belt and related hardware, yes. Water pump, no. Volvo water pumps go through to the second timing belt change. Is your 21-year-old coolant still dark blue? That needs to be replaced. If mud or rust exit your radiator perform a system flush. Do this coolant refreshment and/or cleaning after you locate your leak.

Timing belt was changed at 70,000 km, about 10 years ago. Visual inspection does not show any cracking. Waterpump was not changed at that time. So, yes, they are due. Will check the coolant colour under daylight.

8) "Rear bumper mounts need to be replaced." Replace them. Were they hit by something or did they rust away? Have you seen them yourself? I have never given such a thing a thought.
Over 15 years ago I replaced the rear bumper brackets on a Jeep XJ. Those folded metal parts were $18. I have no idea what holds our bumpers on.

This is a simple fix that requires finding the brackets. They rusted away.

Good luck with your car....Me? I'd fix it. All the stuff you mention is just maintenance.

Thanks. Very inspiring response. My partner loves the car so she was happy to hear about your reply! So was I.

Roy in Montreal

 

re 1) If the clutch doesn't engage, it doesn't engage. I've read a post or two regarding replacing AC clutches but I'd stick with a replacement unit.
a. You get a new clutch with out having to learn which screwy (meaning odd or bicycle-like) tools you'd need to buy and use once

b. With a replacement compressor on hand you break the old one free and drop the new one in place and hook it up fast; leaving the system open for only a minute or two.
Many will advise to do that replacement job AND replace the receiver-dryer at the same time. The R-D is not that expensive a part but if your compressor hasn't grenaded itself yet I'd take the gamble. Me?, I'm 2 for 2 with quick compressor swaps so I'll sit back like a seasoned expert and make suggestions as if I know what I'm talkingabout.

c. With the equipment used for "evacuation & recharge service" the amount of gas removed is measured. The gas is filtered and dye is added. The recharge step doses you the correct weight of gas and the right amount of oil.

re 5) I want to hear what condition your fluid was in. Use the "suck out the reservoir then pump out old fluid via the disconnected reservoir return line whilst turning the steering wheel and adding clean fluid method". It's good you have a willing helper.

a. Also inspect the "U-joint" at the base of the steering column. It's a failure point. How often it fails I do not know. Some say try lubing it. If you feel a difference, change it.

Montreal, good town.

 

on the AC, if the clutch doesn't engage, it may be due to either low system pressure or another "safety" system like a failed AC fan / relay etc. You can jumper the low pressure sensor (usually on the low pressure return line coming from the firewall back to the compressor) and then see if the AC kicks on. If it does then you are ready to hook a gauge to the low pressure port to see if you need a charge and a dye test.

Timing belts are due at 10 years /120K miles along with the tensioner. Quite often its a failed idler/tensioner that takes out the belt, not the belt being bad. Not sure if you model has the VVT or not - I think VVT came to the US models in 2000, can't say about Canada or other markets. Doing the timing belt on your own should not be a huge effort - particularly if your's is pre-VVT. Check youtube for a RobertDIY video.

Slight coolant leak /sweet smell in cabin is the heater core. You can access by removing the sides of the center console = no need to pull open the whole dash. You may only need new o-rings but most people just drop in a new heater core since they can rust from the bottom due to clogged AC drains leaving water (very common to 850s)... Not an expensive part. Again see Robert's vid on Youtube.

For the power steering fluid, start with the turkey baster method. use the baster to suck out all the fluid from the reservoir the refill with fresh fluid. start the car then turn lock to lock 3-4 times. Repeat until the fluid looks clean. Should take about a full quart of fluid and about 4 drain-fill cycles.

 

Thank you, again, George and Kira!

Going tomorrow to have the AC recharged with a dye. I agree. I would not bother with a clutch change. Easier to replace the compressor.

Sucked out some PS fluid. Hmm. scolding perhaps in order. It is a dark reddish-brown colour. Not black, not red. I'll try the turkey baster tomorrow when I can purchase one and add Pentosin CHF-11S.

I ran the codes. No current trouble, no pending codes.

Had summer tires installed a month back. Ask the fellow to check the steering rack. He shrugged. Maybe thought the U joint was suspect but wasn't sure. I'll crawl under there tomorrow.

 

Thank you, mt6127!

I jumped the relay with a paperclip on my 1995 945 and the AC kicked on. Had not thought it was as simple on the V70. I'll try that before I go for a recharge.

I'd be temped to try the timing belt on my own as I have less need for my car during El Covid and working from home. But I feel like heeding the advice of others to change the water pump and would rather someone with more experience did that.

The heater core is feasible for me. RobertDIY has a good video. He's helped me a lot!

Turkey baster purchase tomorrow.

Thanks!

 

AC Recharged, The compressor kicked on. Blows cold. For how long? TBD.

The PS project is tomorrow.

My Saab/Volvo mechanic quoted me for the timing belt, tensioner, water pump, and serpentine (if needed): $825 + tax. I booked an appointment for next week.

Having the exhaust fully assessed by someone other than me tomorrow.

Thanks again to both GeorgenadKira, and mt6127

 

U-joint on the steering column is seizing up. spraying lubricant on it has helped It will need to be replaced.

Timing and water pump are done.

AC still blowing cold.

Exhaust is next.

Thanks again!

 

Just remembered a few things from the days of my '99 ownership.

1) The door cards had a glued section; possibly "leatherette" trim. The glue would fail and the posts all sounded like the world was coming to an end.
If this bubbling happens to your car the remedy was to remove and clean the old glue and reglue it. Barge's shoe glue was the one to use. Rig up padding and bent slats of wood to maintain pressure on the trim as the glue dries.

2) 1999 was the first year for the ETM. The first design ('99-2003?) was a weak one as a positioning hardware wiper wore the oxide coating off a piece of mylar causing the engine to hunt for idle speed.
In the US officials got involved and the warrantee was extended. People who paid for the work were reimbursed. All of that is long done with.

If a MM (Magneto-Merelli) ETM goes bad now a company called XeMODeX, with offices in the US and Canada, rebuilds them using touchless hardware. Do not fetch an ETM from a junkyard as they're addressed to the car. XeMODeX returns your unit. There are other companies which do this work. As I recall the price for the rebuild was around $500.

3) Another distant memory was of the DIM ( Driver Information Module aka the instrument cluster) failing. I know this pertained to P2 Volvos but cannot recall if it pertained to P1 cars like yours. If so the fix is available at cluster repair/rebuild shops. Reflowing cold solder joints remedies the problem and several people have done so but the effected parts have very small connections. I'd use a shop.

In the case of my 2002, the high beam indicator (blue light) wouldn't come on every time. This was a classic first symptom and the only one I had.

4) The interior trim panel of the rear hatch broke it's mounts and would rattle. IPD sold a kit containing repair hardware for all 4 corners for not much money.
Mine never broke so I never looked at it. I have no idea if such a kit is needed by a crafty guy like you.

I'm glad you decided to go ahead with refreshing your car. I believe the flood of technical advances in cars is coming too fast. There's too much for even dealerships to keep up with. I've read the price of electronics in cars constitutes 45% of the vehicle's price. While electronics are inevitable, manufacturers are throwing unproven junk into the harsh environment of a car. Heat, vibration, moisture, temperature changes and fragile controls (those stupid big touch screens) effect these vulnerable circuits....circuits and sub-assemblies which were designed to be light weight, not heavy duty.

I've been telling people to avoid "next tech cars" for as long as they can. You can't resist it forever but it's good to let other people be the guinea pigs for these toys.
For heaven's sake, the profiteers who design this junk can't make sunroofs well.
Would you want to own a car with an early CVT?
We have to pay for the initialization of "pop-in, pop-out" components on top of their cost and that of installation mostly to secure the parts from being stolen. It truly is a perverse mix of motivations and we have to pay for every step.

Looking forward to hearing your next update. The steering U-joint interests me.

 

Thanks for the tips!

So far no ETM issues. I have to clean throttle body on occasion as that will impede the idle
Instrumnet cluster seems fine as well!

I have reglued the panels. I can't recall which adhesive I chose but it seems to be holding.

I did purchase a "repair kit" from IPD for the rear hatch panel. Hopefully, I won't need access to the tailgate or wiper components. Taking off the rear panel seems to destroy the fastening clips no matter how one goes about it.

I'm happy about the refresh as well. I have always been a proponent of "trailing edge" technology. I moved to a nicer home last summer but with that move, I lost my heated garage. I do most of my work on the street now, which dissuades me from taking on bigger/complicated tasks. Plus, as I get older, crawling around under the car has less appeal. :-) The V70 is still relatively affordable to repair even at my local garage. He is a Saab/Volvo exclusive shop, and I have never had to go back after servicing because they errored.

While we were inspecting the exhaust on the lift, we noticed that the fuel filter near the rear passenger side wheel is badly corroded and rusted. I'll replace that to avoid springing a leak.

Thanks, again.

Roy

 

Been up with the deer and ospreys for a while.....no computer.

I like applying the slightest coat of silicone grease to the nipples of a fuel filter as I believe they go through old O-rings.

A little help making a seal goes a long way.

If ever the "coupler-ends" of the fuel lines break and crumble, repair kits involving the same fittings on 18" lengths of fuel pipe are available.

You cut off a length of the old and splice on the new.

 

Happy to report that the AC is still working, albeit less robustly than 8 weeks ago. There is a leak in the dryer. It will need to be replaced soon.

Steering is fine since the u-joint. Exhaust is done. Bumper brackets replaced (I let the shop do that one, thankfully.)

Really happy that I stuck with the car. Thanks again for all the advice and encouragement!

Roy