Hello Volvo Aficionados,

First time on the forum. I have had my 88 244 gl, where I am experiencing a no start. It was running until the alternator went out. I since have replaced the alternator, cables and distributer cap. It didn't seem to be getting fuel so I checked the in tank fuel system following the fuel line and there was fuel getting from the tank to the main pump. I ended up changing the fuel pump just in case as well as the fuel relay. Now, when I attempt to start it, it will turn over for a few seconds then it begins to huff and puff before puttering out making a pop pop sound. I removed the fuel pressure regulator and turned on the car to see if fuel was getting to the injectors and fuel comes out to the bottle I rigged as catch all, so that portion is working, but there was no fuel I believe on the return. I keep buying parts, which chances are, I did not need to but it has only gotten me a little closer. If anyone has experienced this problem, I would appreciate any advice.

Thanks in advance

-WolfBrick76

 

OK
You need compression, fuel at the correct time and quantity, and spark at the right time for your engine to run.

Does that car have the white fuse holder w/25amp fuse under the hood attached with a red wire to the positive battery terminal? If so that powers the fuel injection system. That fuse is exposed to the weather and gets very corroded. The white fuse holders fall apart with old age. Could be a bad connection at the positive battery terminal - I'd bet you removed it during alternator replacement.

After you remove the cover of the white fuel injection relay (above the passengers feet) and cycle the key - are the two sets of points closing and staying closed when the engine attempts to start?

You removed the fuel pressure regulator and found fuel flowing out of injector rail. Good, but still don't know what the pressure is. The fuel return line won't have fuel in it - until the regulator releases some to go back to the tank - and it does that constantly when the fuel pump is running (under normal circumstances) What"s the fuel pressure?

Do you have a spark? Pull coil wire from center of cap. Wedge it in between a shock tower bolt with the tip of the wire 1/4 from the bolt. Spin engine - spark? (hopefully you understand that wire can shock the crap out of you, and generally does not feel good to hold it and use your body as the ground source!)

Is the timing belt aligned correctly? Loosen the top two bolts on the cover - you can pull the cover back far enough to see the alignment mark on the cam cover and cam gear - manually move the crankshaft to line up that mark - if your vibration damper has not spun - the timing marks on the crank pulley should line up with the marks on the cover. If not the outer part of the crank pulley could be spinning (common replacement item) and the only way to verify cam timing is correct is to remove fan and belt to get the cover off to find the timing mark on the crank pulley for the cam belt.

 

Thank you for replying. I have changed the the 25 amp an insured the connections were good to the battery when I changed the alternator, as it has gone bad before. I replaced the relay and it did not make a difference in comparison to the old one.

After changing the distributer cap and cables, I did check to see if there was spark and I found good connection. I am going to go through the hoses and check the flame trap today. At that time I will look into the timing belt and see if it is aligned or if the crank pulley is spinning. When I attempted to start it at one point it made a belt squeal, so I am checking all the belts which are fairly new, but perhaps I did something when putting the alternator back on.

I appreciate the feed back.

Time to start wrenching.

Thank you

 

Flame trap installed or loose won't make the car not run

Do you still have 2 belts on the alternator? Should not be squealing if reasonably tight. A spinning outer part of the vibration damper can squeal - but not make it run bad, just can't easily check the cam timing.

Could the pop pop sound be coming from back firing noises in the intake manifold? (fuel exploding when the intake valves are still open, versus back firing in the exhaust)

 

I checked the compression with the old glove trick and it has poor compression. There is air getting in, so I am going through the hoses, and will replace the once that are not holding up. As I am looking deeper I see possible leak by the intake manifold and since the flame trap was cracked and it is all oily could that have damaged the temperature sensor?

Appreciate the advice.

 

Hoses won't make more compression, flame trap won't damage the temp sensor.

What's the compression (borrow a tester from your local auto parts store?

It the timing belt aligned correctly? What does it look like?

 

I finally found the problem after compression tests and multiple view and tests, the issue was the MAF and after replacing that it started right up. Took it to get smog'ed and the timing was off but after adjustments it passed. Thank you Hoonk for giving me ideas, I appreciate it.