Hello all...found a deal I felt was too good to pass up...'00 s70 with a perfect carfax report, impeccable maintenance records and no accidents...and....308k miles, all for $1,100.

I'll say thanks in advance for input and suggestions, I just picked it up yesterday in Tampa and drove home to Charlotte with only a few items of notice.

First off, the AC blows cold and feels great...until it doesn't. I think this isn't uncommon, but a little clarification/guidance would be appreciated. After turning it off for a few minutes it comes right back on. Sometimes it would go 15 minutes before cutting off again, other times would go a few hours...about 5 times total in the 550 mile trip in all. Is this a recharging issue or something else?

Second, the check engine light is on and the code reader says O2 sensor. I'm guessing that explains the idle dropping down/jumping back up every 10 seconds or so...anything else to know about this?

Third...all those gummy buttons...easy/cheap to replace?

Fourth, she's a little dive-ish when the brakes go on hard...where to look first?

Have to say I'm impressed overall...comfy driving experience, just need to do some minor fixings (seat won't move forward/back, driver sun visor drooping a few inches, cupholder broken, cruise control not working)...but love the gearbox and the 28 mpg I got doing 75-85 with a bad 02 sensor.

I welcome any advice on what I should be looking for/noticing in terms of 'usual' Volvo gremlins, please...I'll have some pictures up before long if y'all would like to see..she's nothing fancy, just a very straight 16 year old car with a ton of miles, and what I think is a vehicle in incredible condition for her age and miles.

 

Your blower motor could be on its last legs. I have a similar issue, when I accelerate the blower speed decreases. When I brake, the blower speed goes back to normal. I haven't diagnosed my issue yet but it could the blower motor. It is a DIY job. There are many tutorials on how to do the job, you just have to search.

You could find good window switches at the junkyard but not very likely. Other then ordering them on ebay, there are not many options. Check ebay. Replace your window switches as your budget permits.

If you're car is nose diving, it could be one of two things, blown struts or bad ball joints. I'm leaning towards bad ball joints since this is a high mileage car you own. Unfortunately you have to replace the entire control arm because the ball joint on our cars is not serviceable. Again it could be a DIY job if your are mechanically inclined. Do not cheap out on control arms because you will end up having to replace them.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/ carries lots of Volvo parts at good prices.

One thing to remember old Volvos will always need something. But once their sorted, they are really easy to maintain.

Important things to check. Has the timing belt been changed? Has the car had its pcv service. These are the most important maintenance items that need to be addressed. If the timing belt breaks, it will cause damage to the valves in the cylinder head. This will turn into a costly repair. PCV service needs to be done next.

Here is a video on how to do the PCV repair.

Remember, research, research, reasearch! Tons of info on this forum and other forums.

 

I assume you weren't talking about the blower motor, but instead the "coldness". Common problem when the a/c compressor clutch gap is too wide. You can google that and find lots of info as well as somewhat comical solutions which really do work.


Gummy buttons; universal problem. I have tried to clean them but I haven't hit on anything that I like. Divey brakes; a consequence of using Macpherson struts. There's no anti-drive geometry possible.

 

A little more info for fodder...I'm getting some codes that might have something to do with the diving?

Looks like I need a rebuilt ABS box...could that have something to do with the diving? Drove today and noticed it didn't always go to one side, and it's not constant/regular...also getting a bad speed sensor reading, too. A little research has me wondering if the ABS module might be the root of that as well?

 

Can you tell us what the codes are?

 

The codes are:

P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor A
P1670 - QDM 4 Circuit
P0135 - 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1

Not sure what the QDM 4 circuit is...little help here is appreciated.

The O2 sensor explains the jumpy idling and 'rough' running at times while driving, but I'm not sure if the other 2 might have something to do with the diving...thinking it may be a combination of ABS and also ball joints/A-arms..thoughts?