I came across this car sitting in an alley here in San Diego. I got her to start after draining the small amount of gas out of the tank and installing a reconditioned battery. She's been great but always had a hesitation right after starting but then runs great. I'm broke and doing my best to clean her up. I have Seafoamed the engine aftr running a quart of ATF through the oil on the recommendation of the guy at the auto parts store. I tried to smog it and had to replace the catalytic converter. Now I cant pass the VAP part of the test. She is idling rough with vibration that seems to be "on time". When I start her she is tkintaking longer and longer to warm up and when I put her in drive she stalls. When I get going it feels like she is going to die at stops and has a couple of times. I've replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets. I've cleaned the MAF and the intake valve. Ive replaced the spark plugs. Any suggestions out there? I love her and plan on keeping her. Thanks.

 

Greetings.... Goldenblock here! I suggest cleaning your Idle air control valve or replacing, also check your wiring to it. Also change your thermostat to help with the warming up issue. Hopefully this helps. Shouldnt cost much money. Osss

 

mid 80s all had ecojunk biodegradable wiring from the factory, I think the suspect years are 82 or 83 until early year 87. all bets are off unless the engine wiring harnesses have been completely redone

the VAP apart of a smog test presumably relates to the evaporative emission control which is the charcoal canister and related plumbing to the gas tank.

any sort of air leak between the mass airflow sensor, and the engine will result in crappy idling and erratic behavior. any electrical issue related to engine sensors will do the same.

 

Should not automatically assume wiring is bad... Many have the problem, many don't. The EVAP failure of the smog test: How did they test that? That car is OBD1, no way to test evap unless you blow smoke in it... You should post you smog test results to get better idea on what's going on. (I wouldn't do anything to the thermostat).

 

not sure about you guys but i would never run ATF in the engine oil no way no how...not even for a minute. sorry....

 

Goldenblock here! Check your iac/ wiring and change your thermostat regardless! Just helped customer with same issues. Too many cats on here quoting manuals and offering regurgitated facts but missjng the simple details!! Oss good luck brotha

 

Thanks for the responses. First of all, I'm not a mechanic but I am mechanically inclined. I've done plenty of construction trades and I'm armed with hand tools and YouTube. That being said, the ATF really seemed to clean up the system. If my terminology is incorrect bare with me. Is the ar sensir attatched to the air intake? Also, the vibration seemstobe getting rougher. I have fiddled with the distributor cap tryingto adjust the timing before. What should I do next? All responses are welcome and sincerely appreciated. Thank you.

 

timing should be done with a timing light. the details are in the bentley 240 book.

 

The ATF trick was usually done with cars with hydraulic lifters. Did a good job of cleaning and unsticking them in the early cars. Also Marvel Mystery oil was used to do the same thing. Only ran the engine for one heat cycle then drain and refill. OHC or solid lifter cars didn't need to do this so this would have a tendency to wash the cylinder walls if run for a long time. I wouldn't go back to this mechanic.

 

modern dino engine oils have plenty of detergents. apparently the ATF advice was given by 'the guy at the auto parts store' . LOL no thanks.

 

I ran a terribly sludged 740 with a B230f on diesel fuel instead of oil for a bit, it turned out OK.