Hi, everyone. I have an 87 Volvo 240 manual transmission, and the car is having trouble starting. The engine will crank, but it will not catch. Well it catches every once in a while and it seems at random. After some gas pedal pumps, the engine will very hesitantly start up with some back fires. Once it's started it idles higher than normal. Typically it idles around 1100 RPMs, and now it's idling around 2700. The first symptoms of this problem was that the car was sort of choking out while driving. The RPMs would momentarily dip really low and the engine seemed as if it was going to cut of, but then it didn't. Eventually the engine died while driving, and it felt like I ran out of gas. It turns out I had 12 gallons of gas in the tank, so that wasn't the problem. Now the engine will rarely start, and sometimes when it does it cuts off immediately, or will cut off after the RPMs dip below 1000 in idle.

Here are the things that I have tried: I have unplugged the MAF sensor and tried starting with no significant change. A couple times it wouldn't start, then it did and idled until I turned off the power. I have swapped the Fuel Pump Relay with one from a working Volvo 240 with no change. I have cleaned the throttle body with no change. I used a jump wire to jump fuses 4 and 6 to test the fuel pump. The jump activated the pump confirming power to the unit.

I'm wondering if any of you faithful Volvo lovers have any other suggestions. I'm also curious about inspecting the crank position sensor, but can't seem to locate the bolt on the bell housing. Any direction on that would be great, as well as any additional thoughts or input on what I might try/inspect/change out.

Thanks so much!

 

You won't find a crank position sensor on your car as you have the LH2.2 fuel injection system. The crank position sensor was introduced with the LH2.4 fuel injection - which started in '89 models.

Your car instead has a Hall sensor in the distributor that provides the timing signals. Given that you have hard starts and idle problems, I don't think it is related to timing. When was the last time you had a basic tuneup? This means spark plugs, distributor cap & rotor. If they haven't been changed in a while, start there. Also inspect the air intake system for any leaks. This can cause poor idling issue. The black accordian air tubes are at an age now that they tend to develop cracks. Remove it and inspect thoroughly.

 

Thanks for the input act1292. I have been digging around behind the block to try and locate the crank position sensor with no luck. It's really good to know that I can't find it because it isn't there . I did a tune up with spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor last August so that should be all set I would think since I drive approximately 7,000 miles a year.

I'm going to inspect the accordion air tube of the air intake. I'll post the results of that inspection. Thanks!

 

Okay, I've removed the intake system and I'm going to install a new MAF just for safe measure. Upon inspecting the accordion tube I found a spot where it rests agains the wheel well that is very thin. It isn't a hole yet, but when I shine a flashlight into the tube the light can be seen at that point. Is this going to pose a problem?

 

If it is still air tight then it doesn't pose an immediate issue. Eventually it will give way and will have to be addressed.

Make sure you carefully check where the flame trap tube and the IAC tube join to it as many times there are cracks around these joints.

 

I'll check those hoses, and I'm planning to clean the flame trap and the IAS as well. I'll probably do this on Saturday and post results.

 

Since my last post I removed and changed the flame trap, cleaned the IAC sensor, and installed a rebuilt MAF sensor. The car symptoms haven't seemed to change. It starts on about the 3rd try while pumping the gas pedal. It starts really rough, choking and sputtering until it starts. Once it's started it is idling at about 1700 RPMs. When I step on the gas the engine revs. When I remove my foot and the RPMs drop. It almost sounds like the engine stalls for a split second. The RPMs drop to about 1000 and then climb back to 1700. If I try to drive it, the shifting is really jumpy because of the high idle.

 

I saw this on another post:

"After the car is good and warmed up and idling too fast....take a pair of vise grips and clamp off the hose (either one) on the IAC and see if idle drops as you clamp harder. The ideal tool for this is a hose clamp pliers but vise grips will do if your hoses are in good shape. Assuming your idle drops, you may conclude your IAC is ill if not dead."

I gave it a try and clamped the hose between the throttle body and the IAC. The car idle lowered to what sounded normal, but the engine did not die. Could this in fact be a signal that my IAC needs replacing?