1993 240 A/C low port location
It should be close to the passenger side firewall somewhere, on the receiver/drier (looks like a beer can). Hard to say exactly as conversions vary but follow the A/C hoses and look for the cap on the fitting, most are marked.
Last edited by lev; Jun 24, 2018 at 10:38 AM.
Yes, that's the location. There is another fitting there which is a factory fill port that has no tool in north america that can fit. However, there is a port on the accumulator as described above.
one question did you convert it or did a shop if a shop about how much did you pay
Rough cost would be around $1000 . It depends on what condition your system is in. Most likely need to flush system , replace receiver/dryer and orifice valve. Maybe need a new compressor then leak test to see if there are any hose or fitting problems.
You can effectively retrofit these vehicles by flushing the components, draining the oil from the compressor, then installing a new drier unit with the appropriate fittings.
I use PAG oil on retrofits and they have always gone quite well. It has been over 10 years since I did a retrofit. The main thing is to change the drier and use the appropriate oil.
I use PAG oil on retrofits and they have always gone quite well. It has been over 10 years since I did a retrofit. The main thing is to change the drier and use the appropriate oil.
You can effectively retrofit these vehicles by flushing the components, draining the oil from the compressor, then installing a new drier unit with the appropriate fittings.
I use PAG oil on retrofits and they have always gone quite well. It has been over 10 years since I did a retrofit. The main thing is to change the drier and use the appropriate oil.
I use PAG oil on retrofits and they have always gone quite well. It has been over 10 years since I did a retrofit. The main thing is to change the drier and use the appropriate oil.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...42-244-245-260
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...dy-air-1394712
frankly, the only things I'd get at Autozone for a older Volvo are coolant (Zerex G05), oil, and wiper blades. ok, and wax.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...dy-air-1394712
frankly, the only things I'd get at Autozone for a older Volvo are coolant (Zerex G05), oil, and wiper blades. ok, and wax.
Here are some parts for an 85 Volvo 240
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...287592&jsn=413
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...287592&jsn=420
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...287592&jsn=427
If you are going to retrofit an 85 model, I would suggest changing the fan clutch so that is working to its full potential as you are going to need all of the airflow that you can get.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...287592&jsn=448
I would also recommend some type of gasket or baffle between the radiator and condenser so that all of the air coming through the radiator has to pass over the condenser too. At idle, some air will go around the condenser so a trip to the hardware store for some vinyl to act as a baffle would be helpful.
I did this type of retrofit on my 85 Suburban and improved the airflow and performance.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...287592&jsn=413
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...287592&jsn=420
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...287592&jsn=427
If you are going to retrofit an 85 model, I would suggest changing the fan clutch so that is working to its full potential as you are going to need all of the airflow that you can get.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...287592&jsn=448
I would also recommend some type of gasket or baffle between the radiator and condenser so that all of the air coming through the radiator has to pass over the condenser too. At idle, some air will go around the condenser so a trip to the hardware store for some vinyl to act as a baffle would be helpful.
I did this type of retrofit on my 85 Suburban and improved the airflow and performance.
I would recommend flushing the evaporator and condenser. You have to remove the lines to do it. It is not absolutely necessary but better if you do.
You are going to need a vacuum pump to pull a vacuum before you charge the system. I add oil when I inject the refrigerant but you can also add it directly to the line before you hook it up.
PM me for more details.
You are going to need a vacuum pump to pull a vacuum before you charge the system. I add oil when I inject the refrigerant but you can also add it directly to the line before you hook it up.
PM me for more details.
yes, its important to flush out all the R12 oil from the condensor and evaporator and compressor before you put the PAG oil in with the R134...
I would flush it, THEN change the seals, expansion valve, and drier. then pull a hard vacuum, wait sufficient time, and recharge it.
I would flush it, THEN change the seals, expansion valve, and drier. then pull a hard vacuum, wait sufficient time, and recharge it.
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monkeyworkz
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
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Jul 30, 2009 06:36 PM



