1993 240 electric windows kaput!

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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 11:44 AM
  #1  
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Default 1993 240 electric windows kaput!

My mechanic says I need a new part to get my electric windows working again on my '93 240. Its on the drivers side, but its not the individual switches (there are five, one for each window and a child lock one) and he says its not the motor inside the door.

He says its the whole block that sits in the panel and the switches all connect to. Can anyone tell me what this is called so I can order one? My mechanic wants to rip apart my door and go from junk yard to junk yard looking for a replacement while I sit without a car. I just want to order one online and ship it overnight and get my darn windows back up. We have a tropical storm coming.

I know this sounds weird, but I can't get the darn mechanic to tell me what its called. He's a very weird guy and every time I ask he tells me all about the part, but doesn't seem to have a specific name for it so I can order one. My owner's manual was useless for this.

Thanks from a newbie!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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From my Haynes manual, it appears that it is called the "Power windows, driver side switch." From the wiring diagram, it appears that this whole "block" that you're talking about is made up of 4 individual switches, one for each window, and I'm guessing the child lock switch (as you stated). Do any of the windows work? If not, I would trace the main feed line from the relay to the window switches. (Don't know where that is located.) Otherwise it is easy enough to fix an individual switch. See www.stepbystepvolvo.com.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 01:18 PM
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Default All 4 windows don't work

Thanks Fredbyte! All 4 windows don't work so I think it must be either the relay, the main feed line or the motor.

This all started when the door handle on the drivers side broke and the door became increasingly hard to open. The windows would work occassionally here and there and then stopped working all together. I got the handle repaired, but no luck with the windows.

I need to get my hands on one of those manuals you were talking about. THANKS!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 07:28 PM
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This "block" is the part that the master switch sits on top of, and it rarely fails as there is nothing to it. ANY junkyard would have that part, very easy to find... as far as the weird mechanic, get another one-this is an easy problem and if he has problems solving this, I'd hate to see him if there is a real problem with your car...
 
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 02:50 PM
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Oh I hear you Ted. The problem is I live on an island on the border of Mexico and this guy is literally the only person in a 200 mile radius who knows how to work on old Volvos. I'm kinda stuck with him . . .
 
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 07:38 PM
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Wink 240 power windows

Probably your switch panel is OK, you must check fuses #10 and #12 that are related to the power window system. They might have corrosion or dust. You can clean all these contacts with WD40 or contact cleaner, give it a try.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 11:22 AM
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I doubt that the motor is at fault (there are 4 of them, one for each window). According to the Haynes wiring diagram, the main feed line from the relay connects to the #4 terminal of the driver's side switch that controls the rear passenger window. In fact, it connects to the #4 terminal of all the switches. With the ignition "On," test for 12 V at any of the #4 terminals, but especially the driver's side switch to rear passenger window.

I suspect you have a loose or broken wire somewhere.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 04:29 PM
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I ran into a similar problem and traced it (using a multi-meter) to a lack of ground at the block of switches. To fix it, instead of trying to locate where I lost ground with the factory ground wire, I just spliced into the factory ground wire near the block of switches and ran a new ground wire to an accessible bolt inside the door panel. Good luck with your fix!
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 09:30 PM
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Also, I think that fredbyte gave some useful information about the switches. If memory serves me right, I think that all window switches will be inactive if the switch that controls the driver's window is kaput.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 12:17 PM
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Thanks everyone. I just got the car back after the mechanic had it a week and never touched it! I sent it in to have the windows fixed and a new mass air meter put in. While it was there, the water pump broke. Well, after 7 days, he got the water pump replaced, but the air mass meter is still broken and so are my windows.

So I'm back here re-reading what everyone said and I'm going to try to fix the windows myself.

I appreciate everyone's help!! I'll let you know how it goes . . .
 
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 01:24 PM
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Ok guys, I just replaced fuses 10 and 12 and still no windows. So I replaced the drivers side switch in the panel. You know, the panel with all the other switches? Still no go.

I don't know what you call the pieces the switches connect to, relays maybe? But they all look to be in really good shape so I don't think its that. All of them are also hooked up correctly.

I really think, since all this started when the door handle mechanism inside the door stopped working, that there is something wrong with the electrical lines inside the door.

I think I'm just going to have to take it back to the mechanic, because taking off the door and replaces electrical lines doesn't sound like something I can do! I know nothing about electrical work. Heck I know nothing about cars. I was pretty pleased with myself just for replacing the window switch.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!!
Maggie
 
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Old Jul 8, 2017 | 05:24 PM
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Default Volvo window not working

I read the whole thread because my windows stopped working on a car that I hadn't driven in 2 and 1/2 years. After reading the thread I decided to clean the fuse terminals number 10 and 12 and what do you know the front windows started working again. The rear windows aren't working but I really don't care. And as far as the person who has the air mass filter that's not working there's air mass filter cleaner that works really well
 
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Old Jul 8, 2017 | 05:58 PM
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Maybe you've already looked but it wouldn't hurt saying it...have you checked that rubber accordion cover for the wires between the door and the car near the hinges? Maybe the wires are getting pinched there and shorting out. It would have to be a serious short for none of the windows to work, but it might be worth a look...
 
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