1993 940 start button conversion
Hi all,
When my key unfortunately snapped off in the ignition, after a week of failing to get it out and the locksmith refusing to come out to my location, I resorted to drilling out the ignition cylinder. Now it can be started with a screwdriver, but that's not terribly secure... I'm thinking of converting it to a push button car seeing as how the replacement lock cylinders are upwards of $100 and a button could potentially be rigged for sub-$100. Has anyone done this?
Main concerns are:
1. How to remove the rest of the ignition cylinder and access the cables at the back that'd be needed to wire in the button.
2. If any shrapnel from the drilling could potentially get in the steering lock mechanism.
3. If concern 2 happens, would there be a way to either disengage or remove the steering lock entirely? Or could we get really fancy and somehow make that a button feature as well? I.E., just like turning the key disengages steering lock, could we rig the button to do the same?
Cheers!
When my key unfortunately snapped off in the ignition, after a week of failing to get it out and the locksmith refusing to come out to my location, I resorted to drilling out the ignition cylinder. Now it can be started with a screwdriver, but that's not terribly secure... I'm thinking of converting it to a push button car seeing as how the replacement lock cylinders are upwards of $100 and a button could potentially be rigged for sub-$100. Has anyone done this?
Main concerns are:
1. How to remove the rest of the ignition cylinder and access the cables at the back that'd be needed to wire in the button.
2. If any shrapnel from the drilling could potentially get in the steering lock mechanism.
3. If concern 2 happens, would there be a way to either disengage or remove the steering lock entirely? Or could we get really fancy and somehow make that a button feature as well? I.E., just like turning the key disengages steering lock, could we rig the button to do the same?
Cheers!
there's around 6-8 wires coming off the ignition switch.
circuit 30 - from the positive terminal (always on power) into the switch - red
circuit 15I - power when ignition is in II (run) - blue-yellow (a couple wires)
circuit 15R - power when ignition is in II (run) or III (start) - blue-red
circuit X - power in I (accessory) or II (run) - black (a couple wires)
circuit 50 - III starter - pink
circuit S - key in lock - yellow-white
X and 15I are *not* powered in III start, to reduce the load on the batteries.
circuit 30 - from the positive terminal (always on power) into the switch - red
circuit 15I - power when ignition is in II (run) - blue-yellow (a couple wires)
circuit 15R - power when ignition is in II (run) or III (start) - blue-red
circuit X - power in I (accessory) or II (run) - black (a couple wires)
circuit 50 - III starter - pink
circuit S - key in lock - yellow-white
X and 15I are *not* powered in III start, to reduce the load on the batteries.
I don't know if in 93 they changed the ignition switch but the electrical portion should be screwed onto the back of the switch assembly. It is a replaceable part so if you remove it you should be able to sort out each start/run position. I don't believe you can do a modern push button set up because they run through the cars computer system. The old race method would work using a switch (or key) followed by a push button but when you get through it would most likely cost the same as replacing the ignition.
if the steering column can be unlocked with the screwdriver, you should be able to remove whats left of the whole lock mechanism... the actual ignition switch is a seperate piece on the back of the lock assembly. the whole assembly looks something like this...
Sorry to be re-hashing this so many times, I'm quite new to diy-ing my cars. Just for my own clarification, what I'm seeing in the thumbnail is the actual ignition switch at the back end with the wires coming out. In my 940, this is still in tact and can be switched on with a screwdriver. Opposite that end is the key ignition barrel, which has been drilled out. That leaves the one part in the middle of the 'T'; perpendicular to the whole assembly.
Is that the steering lock? And if so, when I started drilling the wheel was in the locked position. There was a bit of drill, wiggle the wheel, drill some more, give another wiggle, etc until finally I drilled through and the wheel is now able to turn. Assuming that was the steering lock, would that now be broken, and it won't engage again?
Is that the steering lock? And if so, when I started drilling the wheel was in the locked position. There was a bit of drill, wiggle the wheel, drill some more, give another wiggle, etc until finally I drilled through and the wheel is now able to turn. Assuming that was the steering lock, would that now be broken, and it won't engage again?
That "T" part is the steering wheel lock. If you drilled through that part and the wheel turns you broke the lock. Also the switch on the back comes unscrewed for replacement. You don't need to replace the electrical portion but you now need to replace the body of the switch.
Success! After far more hours in the garage than I'd hoped, we've now got a volvo with no steering lock and a screwdriver start while waiting for new parts to arrive.
Anyone looking to replicate the process can follow the same directions here: Volvo 960 service & repair manual
Cheers!
Anyone looking to replicate the process can follow the same directions here: Volvo 960 service & repair manual
Cheers!
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