My car used to leak some oil from various spots- mainly a recently replaced valve cover gasket so i figured it was the pcv system so 2 months ago i bought https://www.ipdusa.com/Catalog/Index?sku=139686 and replaced those things (did not buy new hoses and instead flushed them many times with brake cleaner, they seemed to be fine but it may have been my downfall) but anyways i also bought https://www.ipdusa.com/Catalog/Index?sku=103560 but didn't install it (should i have? I think it wouldve just pushed more oil out of other places) because it seemed like a pain to install and i just wanted to go drive the car. lastly i bought a new genuine volvo rear cam seal and replaced the valve cover gasket, putting RTV on the front creases but i dont think on the back around the seal. I was still having some oil leaking problems so i got some UV dye and concluded that its the PCV system still- i had places pushing out oil from the valve cover gasket that was replaced less than a couple months ago, oil pan gasket which might just been leaky, and the rear cam seal was definitely spraying some becuase it was on the firewall in a place where only the seal could have sprayed, but the kicker was it was coming out of the fill cap. My first thoughts would be to maybe get new hoses although they didn't seem detrimental, and to maybe wiggle out the flame trap and breather box to see if they're clogged already, but maybe theres something else entirely that i have overlooked. I haven't done anything really since seeing it, does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?

 

I understand everyone talks about Your Clogged PCV. It's shouted that you must clean your PCV system, you will have major oil leak problems if you don't -

That is very true for the aluminum block cars. The red steel block engines it was really never a problem. Sure clogged breathers systems were serviced, replace the flameshield, drill out the clogged orifice on the intake manifold, make sure all the rubber parts were in good condition - but the red block engines did not create internal crankcase pressure problems like the later aluminum block cars did.

Have you replaced the oil cap seal? And the cap still fits tightly? If the new valve cover gasket leaks -that's an installation problem, oil pan gasket - it's probably broken after xx Years. A 34 year old Volvo is going to leak oil. When I owned (and serviced for 40 years) red block cars I kept a large piece of carpet under the cars in my home garage - because I knew they were going to leak - and I saw the same leaks on most cars that came into my shop.

 

interesting, everything I had heard was this was a common problem easily solved by a PCV system tune-up. I still feel like the oil is being forced out of the rear cam seal and the fill cap. in my not very experienced mind, it seems like even if the seal wasn't great on the cap, it would still just get some oil flung on the inside of the cap and not be seeping out of it as much as it has been. the valve cover gasket was a not very significant leak but it definitely could be installation, torquing to spec caused more than one stud to shear so I just made them pretty snug (10 or so ft/lbs compared to maybe 14 suggested), from the advice of some forum thread, for the one spot ill go give it an extra turn or so and see if that helps. I'm expecting the oil pan gasket to be not in great condition and already have a replacement, just waiting on a time to do it. the one thing I can't figure out is the rear cam seal cap, how does that fit in? do you think it's just the valve cover needing to be a little bit tighter on those two back studs? Sorry if these are dumb questions but I really appreciate the help

 

I have owned many Red blocks since 1986, right now have four, and they never leak unless obvious reasons easily remedied (except rear main seal), all of mine now have over 200K. Fixing a clogged PCV definitely helps slowing, very often stopping oil leaks; it's common sense: the system is clogged, thus more air pressure on the seals. I know nothing and don't care about White blocks, but as far as Red blocks definitely clear the system to stop at least considerably slow down oil leaks.
Did you replace the separator under the intake the manifold? That's the main part that gets clogged, you may be able to clean it but generally you have to replace it as it's not easily cleared. The aftermarket ones they sell now fall apart much quicker than the OEM ones, not sure if they are still available.

 

I believe so, I linked what I purchased in the original post, I think the separator you're talking about is also called the breather box, I did replace that along with the flame trap, FT coupler hose and FT housing, and a new rubber o ring
the breather box claims to be OEM and it hasn't been on for more than two months so i would hope it isn't clogged or broken
I think ill tighten up the valve cover, clean off the oil and see if the UV dye comes seeping through again

 

Did you make sure you have a clogged PCV problem to begin with? Because even though a clogged one causes leaks, there are other causes like bad seals and gaskets. A functional PCV should result in negative crankcase pressure, easily checked by placing a rubber glove or a plastic bag on top of the oil fill opening with the engine running. There should not be any outward pressure on the surface, rather slight downward pull, (suck not blow). Sounds like you have done all for the PCV and the leaks can now be due to seals and gaskets that are too far gone--a functional PCV can only do so much...

 

I did, i wouldn't be surprised if the positive pressure busted through the seals and im confident thats what happened with the oil pan gasket. i have not checked with a glove, thats a good idea, i flipped the fill cap upside down and it was rattling around due to the pressure before i replaced the system. (this was definitely flawed because of my typical shot engine mounts but you get the picture) when i took out the system to try to clean it, it was very visibly clogged.
I wiped off the oil and tightened down the valve cover, got it up to temp just idling and it didn't seem to be leaking from there anymore but ill have to drive it a bit to make sure
But i agree, i wanted to make sure there wasn't some small thing i overlooked replacing before i went and did the gaskets

 

On many of those engines that negative pressure (vacuum) is only created by the metered orifice on the intake manifold with the small vacuum line going to it. That fitting becomes clogged easily and it was always part of the pcv service (at my shop) to use a small drill bit to clean the orifice and make sure it passed vacuum.

 

the small vacuum line from the flame trap system?

 

Yes - plugs into a screwed in fitting on the intake manifold - that is a metered orifice - should have vacuum there with the engine idling - if not use a small drill bit to clean the carbon out.

 

I did have vacuum, still took it off but there was absolutely nothing inside of it. after tightening the valve cover in like 3 spots yesterday, it seems to be not leaking anymore but ill continue to check, and next time i order something from ipd, ill grab an oil fill cap seal, I really appreciate the help

 

I would check other sources like europarts (sp) or the fcp? people for more reasonable prices.

 

the seal was under a dollar but ill keep that in mind for more expensive parts

 

Hi Forum. Thanks for all the sage advice and tips.
I am going through the PCV system of this old 2.4 red block, pushing 300,000 miles! I have the intake manifold and injector rail off, and have removed the cruddy old oil separator, flame trap and hose. I will be replacing the idle air control valve also, along with resealing the 4 fuel injectors.
My question is how do I determine which EGR valve I should purchase to replace mine? It has a wire from a threaded fitting on the side. I am assuming that is the sensor model. So which part number will give me the correct replacement?
In the interest of doing it all now, what else should I replace? The throttle position sensor? Any other components for a complete tune-up of this old war wagon? I'm also doing spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor and wires.
Thanks. Looking for at least another hundred thousand.

 

Oops, 2.3, of course!

 

Got the new EGR, all put back together. Thanks Forum. Always better than the manuals.

 

Hi Forum. Further update. Found some weak vacuum lines and one IAC connector left unattached. Now running smooth. Thanks for all the tips and guidance Forum members. Off to the smog shop today! Fingers crossed.

 

Here's a great story;
All day Sunday the starter on the 93 240 worked fine.
Monday morning it started right up for the trip to the Smog Shop.
The mechanic started it to move into the shop. I'm thinking all is well.
2 minutes later he comes to ask me to start the car! No amount of tapping would do it. They tested the voltage, 9.6v at solenoid!
Luckily I had seen this coming and ordered a rebuilt Bosch. It was due the next day by 7 pm. No help to the shop. But they pushed it to a corner and said "just bring it in ASAP"
It was delivered last night, so I got it there first thing this morning when they opened.
Hour and a half later I got the call.
She passed Smog easily, new starter installed! All your help on all my the various smog, PCV, EGR, vacuum and idle issues paid off. You got me through it!
Thank you Forum! Everyone!