Heya - I've been lurking here and now after purchasing a 240 I need some sage wisdom. I have a 92 240 DL which was converted to R134 a some point in time. Ran cool for the first 2 hours that I owned it and then it started throwing fuses so I stopped using it. An independent Volvo mechanic had a look yesterday and confirmed the compressor is shot and it won't turn. This would mean there are metal shavings in the system so it needs to be yanked and have all new bits. Ok fine, I can see the value in spending 1500 bucks or so getting it right and having new, reliable parts. However, I also know the evaporator has a chance of being cracked, in which case the job jumps up considerably in price. Like, a lot.
I'm not a mechanic and I bought (what I thought) was a road ready vehicle, not a project car. I overpaid in doing so (lesson learned)
The mech says if I am going to go in and pull it out and redo it, it is probably worth it to go ahead and do the evaporator, heat core and I assume the blow motor.
This now takes the whole thing into the world of 4 - 5k and I have no stomach for that. I also don't want to throw a bunch a cash at a vehicle I just overpaid for. However it is a very low mileage vehicle (TMU but around 90k) and I already love her.

I welcome any thoughts or advice. Many thanks.

 

Are there any known leaks? Does the system still hold freon? How often was it "charged" in the past? If it holds freon has anyone done a vacuum leak check?

If you are concerned about metal shavings - pull the orifice tube first and check for contamination there, that's where it will be. If none is seen, simply replace the compressor, orifice tube and typically the accumulator that has the desiccant in it. If the accumulator fittings won't come off easily - (they can easily strip where two aluminum threads have been together for a while) simply reuse the accumulator and run the vacuum pump longer and hope you get all the moisture out.

I would try to remove all fittings needed first before ordering any parts - and on a car that old I would be reluctant to touch any ac fitting that could be optional - have seen two many hoses and parts destroyed trying to take them apart. And I imagine parts for a 90-92 240 ac system are not too common today. (threads were different on a 1993, and a different system on 1989 and earlier)

 

I wouldn't ever use this mechanic. He wants to replace everything whether needed or not--no need to do heater core or blower motor "just because"! The A/C compressor is not even necessarily bad, it worked for the first two hours, right? Why assume there are metal shavings in the system? The previous owner probably freshly charged it for the sale but looks like there is a leak so it quit. I'd concentrate on finding the leak, fix it, then fill it up with 134R, it's already converted. You don't even need a Volvo mechanic, any A/C shop should be able to do this.

 

There are no known leaks (at least by me) and I don't know if the system still holds freon.
I also don't know if there was a vacuum leak check but I am going to ask the seller.

I will pull the orifice tube (assuming I can do this easily, I will consult the internet first) and see if I notice anything.

The accumulator seems to be newer (perhaps when it was changed over to R134? Theres a sticker on the body underneath the hood that denotes it was changed over but the date is illegible.) Mechanic did say that because of the different metals used where the accumulator connects that it is VERY prone to turning into a situation where it breaks trying to take it out.

Appreciate your input!

 

I totally hear you and wondered the same. Basically after talking to him for over an hour and having him look at it from above and putting it on a lift, he threw all of that info at me and essentially said "don't throw that kind of money at this car. You already overpaid for it and you'll just get too far in $ wise for it to make sense." So I didn't get the sense he was trying to sell me on him doing the work.
When you said "any AC shop" you meant they could check for leaks and fill it with 134R ? Or I would need to run the leak down first and then get them to fill it.

The other hiccup in this is that the cars engine has also started "surging", meaning it like cycles up and down in rpm when idling. And often as I slow down it starts to run really sluggishly and quits as a come to a stop at a light or stop sign. I have to crank it, give it a little gas and then put it into drive or it dies immediately again. However it is not super consistent and has also done it without me using the AC (which is now off for good until that is solved.) It's the one two punch of these issues, a week into owning it that have me a bit skittish. Like I said, I am no mechanic and it feels daunting at the moment. As for now so much for buying a used Volvo that I could use as a daily driver...

Thanks for the reply Len!

 

1. When you recharge an ac system with a refrigerant machine you program the machine to:
Pull the existing refrigerant out, filter and store it (it can be reused if you have enough)
Put a vacuum on the system to remove all air and moisture (20-30 minutes)
Run a vacuum leak check - 5 minutes or so - it tests to see if the vacuum just applied stays in.
Fill with correct weight of refrigerant.
Drive away happy.

The accumulator was changed when the system was converted to 134. r12 refrig oil and r12 desiccant in the accumulator are not compatible with 134. So to convert - drain and fill compressor, change accum and orifice tube, screw new fittings on, put sticker on top and charge system. r12 oil does not mix with r134 - compressor lubrication works on the same principle as a 2 stroke where the oil is mixed with the gas to lubricate those engines. It's possible someone did not change the compressor oil during conversion.

A new compressor should come with the correct amount of the correct oil in it - but make sure it's designed for 134. If you use r12 oil the compressor will fail.

2. A common reason your engine will stall is carbon buildup on the throttle plate reducing the air entering the engine at idle. Yes there is an idle motor/IAC/auto air valve/whatever you want to call it - but those can stick or fail to work properly due to old age and carbon build up also.

The PCV system dumps oil fumes directly in front of the throttle plate and those will coat the plate and reduce the amount or air when throttle is closed. A can of carb cleaner and a rag is all you need. Easiest if the throttle plate is off the car, but I always used a new gasket when reinstalling.

 

If this A/C worked for two hours, as you said, then it stopped, you most likely have a leak. What are the chances the compressor quit just then? Most A/C systems stop working due to leaks, small or large determine how often the system needs to be recharged in order to keep working. Most sellers say "it just needs a charge" which is inaccurate as no A/C system will lose refrigerant unless there is a leak somewhere--it's a closed system! You can easily test the compressor by shorting the pressure switch with a paper clip or short piece of wire. If it click on, then all need is find and repair the leak then recharge the system with 134R as it was previously converted. Keep in mind that the 1990 240 A/C performance was never the best.

 

Lev, thanks for the detailed reply. I took it to a different mechanic, who, incidentally happens to be a trained Volvo mechanic. He confirmed that the compressor is the problem and is locked up, it will not turn.
The system was converted to 134R some years ago and has a sticker from Volvo under the hood noting the conversion.

I would love to know what your recommendations for a replacement compressor are if you have any. It would seem that they run from 150 - 330ish. I think it’s worth spending the money If the quality is there.

I’m also assuming that there might be debris in the system, as two people have mentioned, so I will def get it flushed as well.

I hear you on the subpar AC, and I am hoping it might at least be workable enough for a summer in the south. Fingers crossed.

 

You can find that debris (if there is any) when the orifice tube is replaced during the compressor replacement. "Flushing" is not something my shops ever did after we tried a couple of times and figured out that not much really happens with that procedure. The orifices in the condenser are so small that a "flush" does not really clean them out if contaminated.

 

At this point there are not too may new OEM compressors out there, I believe they are all rebuilds of various quality so it's a crapshoot. Just get one with a warranty, buyer beware, as with everything else. Most important to make sure there are no leaks in the system as that's what kills most A/C systems.

 

I got mine from ACKits.com in AZ (Be aware, I have a '93 940, so a slightly different animal). Great guys over there. Tim is extremely helpful. They also have an A/C-only forum that's a huge wealth of information. Installed it 6 years ago - still working great. They have everything you need there from parts to tools. With hoses on these, you might have to hit up a custom hose builder for those, since they're starting to get very difficult to source. I ended up reusing my high side hose from the compressor to condenser for this reason, and it took me 5 years to finally source a NOS aluminum line from the condenser to the orifice tube. The design is MUCH better on the '95 940 that eliminates the steel piece under the condenser that rots away to nothing, and breaks upon removal.

I would have the evaporator pressure tested before pulling the trigger on that job. It's a HUGE amount of labor. If you do end up doing an evaporator, it would be foolish to not replace EVERYTHING you can behind that dash while it's out - heater core, and blend door seals, just to start. Regardless of the quality of the components at the time, they're pushing 3 decades old now. If it's easier to remove the fan motor then, then have that done too. If you're paying someone to do this, you don't want to pay that labor ever again, so do it once, and do it right. Buy once, cry once, I say. Anything is better than buying the new junk automakers are pumping out lately.

 

The Compressor they have listed for a 92 240 has mineral oil in it. A R12 compressor uses mineral oil and that oil is not compatible with r134. Mineral oil does not mix with 134 and does not lubricate the compressor - then it seizes up. You need a compressor with something compatible for 134 like Pag oil. That site shows the same compressor for a 93 240, that has different threads as is 134 from Volvo - so perhaps it's just a catalog error.

 

Yep, you're right ... so you flush the oil out with PAG or Ester. Simple. Should flush a new compressor with whatever oil you're using anyway if you expect it to last. You should see the crap that comes out of new compressors. Scary! That's why warranty claims are so high on the ones sold from Advance Auto or AutoZone, and a few others.

I always dump the flush oil into paper towels - they'll have black spots all over them after the first few flushes. Dump it in, twist the clutch over several times, dump out, repeat. So simple a child could do it.

Oh, forgot to mention, this system is running R12 in it. Blows ice cubes rolling down the road. So cold it gets uncomfortable on a 90° sticky humid day, and you have to turn the temperature down.

 

Tim @ AZKits just told me the same thing.

“Drain and add the pag you intend to use. Or even a pie oil. ”

 

“Drain and add the pag you intend to use. Or even a pie oil. ”


Certainly, that's one way to do it - Or purchase a (name brand) compressor with the correct oil in it and the correct fittings on it (if they are still available) is the way my shop always tries to do it.

I have not seen a can of r12 in many years - and a good deal for $500! If available that really is the best way to go - r12 systems blow much colder (5 degrees or so) with r12. Especially on some 940 years with the larger diameter clutch. (does not turn as fast at idle and cooling drops off if using 134)-