I am in the process of getting an abused 92 245 back on the road. I’ve changed the MAF sensor and fuel pressure regulator to get rid of the CELs. Currently the wagon is hunting at idle and crescendos up and them returns to baseline and repeats. There are no codes as of now. I’ve had to trim the clip quite a bit. Thanks for the advice.

 

I'd start by checking for intake air leaks - vaccuum lines, injector seals, main intake air boots/tubes. Have you measured the fuel pressure since installing the regulator?

 

I’ll do the carb cleaner spray test looking for vacuum leaks. I’ll also have to go borrow a fuel pressure gauge from autozone to check the pressure. Wouldn’t unmetered air give a CEL?

 

So the fuel pressure at idle varies from 36-40. When I turn off the motor the pressure slowly leaks down to 0 over about 20-30 seconds.

I noticed a suction sound coming from the intake manifold. Looks like this is threaded and there is something broken off inside.

When I plug the hole, the engine rpm drops. Is there a diagram somewhere where I can identify this orifice? I sprayed carb cleaner everywhere with this thing covered and the engine did not react.

 

Is the brass nipple missing that connects a short vacuum line to the flame trap holder pictured below? That nipple is a metered orifice -

 

There is no fitting with a barb end. Are you sure that it is metered via the barb and not the insert that is inside as seen in the picture? That part is discontinued.

 

Yes the brass fitting is a metered orifice - I've cleaned thousands of clogged ones - usually with a small drill bit. vacuum line goes to the plastic holder.

On your manifold - there are two vacuum lines - top one would go inside the car for the vents controls, does that bottom one hook to the flame trap holder and what's missing is just a plug?

 

There are so many variations. I’ve seen some YouTube videos with the orifice in question with a plug and some have a barb. I’m not with the car now but will look in the morning.
Do you know the size and pitch of the threads so I can get a plug to seal it off? I’m going to the junkyard tomorrow and have 2 240s to scavenge off of.
Thanks for the feedback. I’ve noticed that this forum has the most active 240 section of all the forums that I’ve seen.

 

The other vacuum tube goes this part at 6 o’clock.



I found that the flame trap holder has no flame trap and the vaccum fitting is broken.



Got a barb fitting from a 240 at the junkyard and the orifice is wide open. The donor is a 1991 and mine is a 1992 so they should be the same. I can’t see how this is metered.


I’m going back to the junkyard tomorrow for some more parts.

 

That looks like an EGR car, maybe a California spec engine. Did not see many of those in my part of the country.

The pipe into the manifold (squared in green below) is an EGR pipe - you will find it goes to a vacuum operated valve under the intake manifold and a pipe around the back of the engine to the exhaust manifold and the Vacuum line goes to your pictured switch and the EGR valve under the manifold to allow Exhaust gas back into the intake at certain times. (reduces NOX) The orifice is indeed metered - it's certainly smaller than the hole it screwed into!

 

Ok got a replacement flame trap and holder and installed it. Car was a bit hard to start and idles a bit more smooth than before. No more hunting but still a bit rough.
After idling a few minutes it throws a 113 and 232 codes and smells rich, no smoke but rich.
The fuel pressure was about 38 and dropped to 0 after a few minutes after car was shut down on testing.
ECT?

 

After a bit of reading, for lh2.4 113 points to the o2 sensor and 232 to the fuel injection. I’ll be testing the sensor. I’m inclined to buy a new fuel pressure regulator as the one that is on it now came from the junkyard though it is not leaking when I pull the vacuum tubing off.

 

Replaced the junkyard fpr with a new Delphi one. 113 is gone. 232 remains and the crescendoing idle is back. O2 sensor comes in tomorrow.

 

Just wanted to update and close this thread. Didn’t change the O2 sensor but replaced the spark plug wires and distributor cap with a good condition one from the junkyard. Had an episode of crank but no start so I replaced the crank position sensor with a good condition one from the junkyard. Now she starts right up and runs smoothly. No more codes as of now.

Now to tackle the AC issues.