94 945 Turbo Crank No Start - Lack of Injector Pulse - HELP
My 1994 945T cranks strongly, has spark, fuel at the rail, correct timing, but will not start. It gets 12v at the injectors, but neither noid light nor test light flashed on cranking. Swapped fuel relay and RSR, nothing. I swapped ECUs but no positive change - strangely the cooling fan came on as soon as it was plugged in (no key). I’ve run DTM 3 and could hear the injectors clicking. No codes. No start with starting fluid. The ballast resistor wiring seems a little hinky, I resoldered some of it - could that be causing a starting problem even though I get battery voltage at the injectors?
Some background: about two weeks before this happened, I replaced the rear seal. She started and ran fine for maybe a week, then slightly sluggish acceleration for a few days, then was not able to start one afternoon trying to head back to work. Could I have screwed something up that would take a week to show itself?
Additional background: two years ago she was hit at the driver’s front corner, and while being repaired required a bit of rewiring up there which was carried out by some jackleg with an electrical tape fetish who forgot to attach BOTH the ABS and the cooling fan wires. Started and ran fine until now, though…
I suppose the next step is to thoroughly check all the wiring involved. I have to a certain extent with diagrams and a multimeter but so far nothing seems amiss - what’s the best path forward at this point? Truly grateful for any help or suggestions!
Some background: about two weeks before this happened, I replaced the rear seal. She started and ran fine for maybe a week, then slightly sluggish acceleration for a few days, then was not able to start one afternoon trying to head back to work. Could I have screwed something up that would take a week to show itself?
Additional background: two years ago she was hit at the driver’s front corner, and while being repaired required a bit of rewiring up there which was carried out by some jackleg with an electrical tape fetish who forgot to attach BOTH the ABS and the cooling fan wires. Started and ran fine until now, though…
I suppose the next step is to thoroughly check all the wiring involved. I have to a certain extent with diagrams and a multimeter but so far nothing seems amiss - what’s the best path forward at this point? Truly grateful for any help or suggestions!
Looks like the signs go to crank position sensor!
check yours for broken sheath around it first
then check with multimeter for good ohms reading.
160 to 180 is acceptable
If you replace always get a good oem replacement.
I have plenty in stock if needed!!
Goldenblock
check yours for broken sheath around it first
then check with multimeter for good ohms reading.
160 to 180 is acceptable
If you replace always get a good oem replacement.
I have plenty in stock if needed!!
Goldenblock
This is rather puzzling as you say you have spark but no injector pulse. Both the ignition and fuel injection signals are provided by the crank position sensor so it wouldn't make sense that it would be the problem. However, you also state that it doesn't fire using starter fluid. If you had spark I would expect that it would fire when spraying starter fluid in the intake.
Have you checked the timing belt? Pull the oil cap off and have a buddy crank the engine. Do you see the cam moving when looking down the oil filler opening?
Have you checked the timing belt? Pull the oil cap off and have a buddy crank the engine. Do you see the cam moving when looking down the oil filler opening?
Your car has a noise suppression relay (2/12) that powers the injectors and commonly fails due to cracked solder joints - checked and resoldered? (black case relay with 4 leads near steering reservoir )
NO START WITH ETHER - if the spark plugs are firing at the right time, valves opening at the right time and you have compression - Ether WILL fire. Maybe you are looking the wrong direction?
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parziv4l
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
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May 2, 2021 11:39 PM



