My battery was drain, i used jumper cables to start the car.
I crossed the jumper cables in my car with the car that was giving me a jump.
Smoke started at my alternator.
The car started, but after that, the power windows, the radio, the turn signals do not work and the abs light on the dashboard stays on.
Also,the gear shifter does not get out of park now, unless i press the shift override button.

I changed fuse 9 and 12, but when i turn the car on, it blows the fuses.

I know that i have a short, but how do i find it?
Does any body knows how to fix this?
Thank you.
Hector.

 

you probably fried the alternator regulator, maybe the diodes too. get that sorted out first. (test with a voltmeter, etc).

god knows how many other electronic things you fried by applying reverse voltage

 

Hi pierce!
When my battery was drained, i though that i was not good, so i drove the car to an auto part called the auto zone, they checked the battery and the alternator and they said that the alternator and battery were good.
I am driving the car to work every day, but no turn signals and all the other problems.
Any other ideas?
I reeeally need help with this.
Thank you.
Hector.

 

then you probably fried relays, switches, wiring, who knows? this will be a trouble shooting job for someone who understands electrics.

start with the greenbook wiring diagrams for your year/model, and a volt meter, and test the various stages of the circuit. I usually try and cut problems like this in half, test it in the middle somewhere, if it all seems to be correct, then I test it closer to the end, til I find an anomaly, and work towards isolating the cause.

 

Hi pierce!
What relays?
I have all the relays from previous volvos that i owned.
I changed the relay marked "j", but i have not put any more fuses.
Tomorrow, sunday, some body is going to look at the problem.
I will let you know what happens.
Thank you.
Hector.

 

well, there's a wiper timer/relay thats used for the intermittent wash mode interval timer, and also the 3-4 wipes after a windshield wash.

 

ok, wait, you said fuses 9 and 12 blow as soon as you turn the car on? then you need to look at the wiring diagrams and see what circuits are downstream from those two fuses, both them have shorts. you said smoke came out, so there's probably some melted wiring somewhere in those circuits.

oh fun, fuse 9 is turn signals, seat belt warning lights, and reminder, ignition key warning reminder, the shift interlock, and the bypass relay, which provides power to the power windows, seat heaters

fuse 12 is the backup lights, overdrive relay, bulb malfunction indicator brake monitor circuit, cruise control, and anti-theft alarm, if you have one.

thats a lotta circuits to check :-/

 

Hi pierce!
It seems that the letter "j" relay was the one that went bad.
Today i replaced all the burned fuses, and the windows, turn signal, radio
and the transmission shifter work.
The only problem now is that the abs light is on.
Any idea on how to fix the abs light?
Thank you.
Hector.

 

run the abs diagnostic routine on the OBD box under the hood. can't say I know what the error codes are without having to dig up and dig into the ABS greenbook.

ok, the basics are like this... you should have a DLC (diagnostic link thingie) under the hood, forward of the left suspension tower, little black box with a lid, 6 numbered holes, a little jumper wire, a LED and a button. if you have TWO DLCs next to each other use DLC A for this.

turn the ignition off, put the jumper into socket 3, turn the ignition on (but don't start car), and press the button for about 1 second (but not more than 3 seconds... I use 'one one thousand two one thousand'), release. the LED will slowly blink out a 3 digit error code. "blink (pause) blink blink (pause) blink" would be code 1-2-1. code 1-1-1 means no errors. if you get anything other than 1-1-1, write it down, then press the button for a bit over 1 second again, and release, and read the next code, write it down, repeat this until you get the first code again.

the codes....

• 1-1-1 = no faults
• 1-2-5 = faulty signal from at least one wheel sensor
• 1-3-5 = fault in ABS control module
• 1-4-2 = brake light switch open circuit
• 1-5-1 = left front wheel sensor open or short
• 1-5-2 = right front wheel sensor open or short
• 1-5-5 = rear axle sensor open or short
• 2-1-5 = valve relay open or short
• 2-3-1 = left front wheel sensor signal absent
• 2-3-2 = right front wheel sensor signal absent
• 2-3-5 = rear axle sensor signal absent
• 4-1-1 = left front wheel valve open or short
• 4-1-2 = right front wheel valve open or short
• 4-1-5 = rear valve open or short
• 4-4-3 = pump motor/relay electrical or mechanical fault

note, btw, the rear axle sensor *is* the same one the speedometer uses, so if you get an ABS fault in the rear sensor but the speedo is working, its probably a wiring problem.

after reading all the codes (such that the next read repeats a previous code), then press and hold the button for at least 5 seconds, release it, and after three seconds the light should come on again, and press the button AGAIN for 5+ seconds, and release, and the faults should be reset, such that if you read them again you get 1-1-1. I've sometimes had to turn the key off, turn it back on and try again to get the reset to work.

(for others reading this in the future, only 1992+ have the ABS connected to the DLC, older cars require using a Volvo scan tool to diagnose ABS faults)