940 wagon as a first car to take cross country this summer?
Hey Volvo fans,
I'm looking to buy my first car this summer, and plan to drive it across the U.S. as I'm moving to New England.
I've always liked old Volvos and I've heard that the 940 stands out in terms of reliability, easy to fix, etc. But they are 22+ year old cars, so I worry about reliability for my cross-country trip. I would like to learn to work on cars but won't have time to learn much by the time of my road trip. Besides that, day-to-day reliability isn't super important, as I won't be commuting with this car, just using it go get groceries and go hiking on the weekends.
Is this a wise decision? There are some 940 wagons on craigslist in my area for around $2000 with ~200k miles (for example: http://https://seattle.craigslist.or...129383282.html). I could put in ~3k having it serviced to ensure it's road trip ready. I could also wait for a lower mileage one to pop up, but they seem rare. The alternative would be to spend $6k on a Subaru Outback or Mazda 6, which would get the job done, but I wouldn't be as proud of an owner.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
I'm looking to buy my first car this summer, and plan to drive it across the U.S. as I'm moving to New England.
I've always liked old Volvos and I've heard that the 940 stands out in terms of reliability, easy to fix, etc. But they are 22+ year old cars, so I worry about reliability for my cross-country trip. I would like to learn to work on cars but won't have time to learn much by the time of my road trip. Besides that, day-to-day reliability isn't super important, as I won't be commuting with this car, just using it go get groceries and go hiking on the weekends.
Is this a wise decision? There are some 940 wagons on craigslist in my area for around $2000 with ~200k miles (for example: http://https://seattle.craigslist.or...129383282.html). I could put in ~3k having it serviced to ensure it's road trip ready. I could also wait for a lower mileage one to pop up, but they seem rare. The alternative would be to spend $6k on a Subaru Outback or Mazda 6, which would get the job done, but I wouldn't be as proud of an owner.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
I don't think the mileage on your new aquisition is as important as maintenance history. The 700/900s frequently roll 200K+ with the right care. My suggested prep list for the long haul (both for the trip and as a daily driver) would include:
1. Timing belt replacement (if past recommended interval) see: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...imingBeltChart
Listen for any pulley noises and if you decide to do the belts, replace any idlers and tensioners as recommended.
2. drain/fill coolant - don't use a chemical flush - use distilled water, replace thermostat/coolant overflow pressure cap (also consider replacing the coolant temp sensor at the same time since you'd be right there) - use a green 50/50.
3. oil+ OEM filter. If the car is not running synthetic already don't upgrade yet, I'd go with a high mileage non-synthetic (has seal softeners - synthetic may be too slippery for old, hard seals). Refer to the owners manual for proper oil weight.
4. Full tune up - use OEM plugs, new wires, cap, rotor.
5. consider replacing the fuel pump relay. I'd also give a good listen to the fuel pump to make sure there's no buzzing, extended cranking on start up etc. test to confirm proper fuel pressure.
6. clean the battery post terminals, check cables.
7. check AC charge. If this is a DIY, use a kit with a pressure gauge and temperature chart as you don't want to over charge.
8. inspect tires/brakes/suspension parts.
For more info on maintenance/repairs, check out Volvotips.com
1. Timing belt replacement (if past recommended interval) see: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...imingBeltChart
Listen for any pulley noises and if you decide to do the belts, replace any idlers and tensioners as recommended.
2. drain/fill coolant - don't use a chemical flush - use distilled water, replace thermostat/coolant overflow pressure cap (also consider replacing the coolant temp sensor at the same time since you'd be right there) - use a green 50/50.
3. oil+ OEM filter. If the car is not running synthetic already don't upgrade yet, I'd go with a high mileage non-synthetic (has seal softeners - synthetic may be too slippery for old, hard seals). Refer to the owners manual for proper oil weight.
4. Full tune up - use OEM plugs, new wires, cap, rotor.
5. consider replacing the fuel pump relay. I'd also give a good listen to the fuel pump to make sure there's no buzzing, extended cranking on start up etc. test to confirm proper fuel pressure.
6. clean the battery post terminals, check cables.
7. check AC charge. If this is a DIY, use a kit with a pressure gauge and temperature chart as you don't want to over charge.
8. inspect tires/brakes/suspension parts.
For more info on maintenance/repairs, check out Volvotips.com
940 wagons make great long distance haulers, they are comfortable, roomy and can carry a half ton of stuff easily.
avoid off brand/chinese parts like Uro like the plague.
I'd suggest looking for a non-turbo... While the power and torque the turbo gives you is great, they also are more likely to cause problems, oil leaks, air plumbing blowing apart when on the boost, etc, and also they get lousy gas mileage (15-18 mpg vs 25 mpg typical for a non-turbo). note, btw, that many 94/95's don't SAY Turbo on the back but in fact may have a turbo, only way to know for sure is to look under the hood.
avoid off brand/chinese parts like Uro like the plague.
I'd suggest looking for a non-turbo... While the power and torque the turbo gives you is great, they also are more likely to cause problems, oil leaks, air plumbing blowing apart when on the boost, etc, and also they get lousy gas mileage (15-18 mpg vs 25 mpg typical for a non-turbo). note, btw, that many 94/95's don't SAY Turbo on the back but in fact may have a turbo, only way to know for sure is to look under the hood.
940 wagons make great long distance haulers, they are comfortable, roomy and can carry a half ton of stuff easily.
avoid off brand/chinese parts like Uro like the plague.
I'd suggest looking for a non-turbo... While the power and torque the turbo gives you is great, they also are more likely to cause problems, oil leaks, air plumbing blowing apart when on the boost, etc, and also they get lousy gas mileage (15-18 mpg vs 25 mpg typical for a non-turbo). note, btw, that many 94/95's don't SAY Turbo on the back but in fact may have a turbo, only way to know for sure is to look under the hood.
avoid off brand/chinese parts like Uro like the plague.
I'd suggest looking for a non-turbo... While the power and torque the turbo gives you is great, they also are more likely to cause problems, oil leaks, air plumbing blowing apart when on the boost, etc, and also they get lousy gas mileage (15-18 mpg vs 25 mpg typical for a non-turbo). note, btw, that many 94/95's don't SAY Turbo on the back but in fact may have a turbo, only way to know for sure is to look under the hood.
i was lucky to get 18 MPG on all day freeway trips in my 92 740T (which was essentially a 940T for all practical purposes). absolute best ever tank when i was tracking it was 20MPG (and, I think that was a late night donner summit to SF run, so lots of downhill freeway). around the county tanks were 13-15 mpg but I'm a bit of a leadfoot. the NA cars get more like 25, as good as 28 mpg if you cruise at steady 65 on the freeway for the full tank.
i was lucky to get 18 MPG on all day freeway trips in my 92 740T (which was essentially a 940T for all practical purposes). absolute best ever tank when i was tracking it was 20MPG (and, I think that was a late night donner summit to SF run, so lots of downhill freeway). around the county tanks were 13-15 mpg but I'm a bit of a leadfoot. the NA cars get more like 25, as good as 28 mpg if you cruise at steady 65 on the freeway for the full tank.
I don't think the mileage on your new aquisition is as important as maintenance history. The 700/900s frequently roll 200K+ with the right care. My suggested prep list for the long haul (both for the trip and as a daily driver) would include:
1. Timing belt replacement (if past recommended interval) see: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...imingBeltChart
Listen for any pulley noises and if you decide to do the belts, replace any idlers and tensioners as recommended.
2. drain/fill coolant - don't use a chemical flush - use distilled water, replace thermostat/coolant overflow pressure cap (also consider replacing the coolant temp sensor at the same time since you'd be right there) - use a green 50/50.
3. oil+ OEM filter. If the car is not running synthetic already don't upgrade yet, I'd go with a high mileage non-synthetic (has seal softeners - synthetic may be too slippery for old, hard seals). Refer to the owners manual for proper oil weight.
4. Full tune up - use OEM plugs, new wires, cap, rotor.
5. consider replacing the fuel pump relay. I'd also give a good listen to the fuel pump to make sure there's no buzzing, extended cranking on start up etc. test to confirm proper fuel pressure.
6. clean the battery post terminals, check cables.
7. check AC charge. If this is a DIY, use a kit with a pressure gauge and temperature chart as you don't want to over charge.
8. inspect tires/brakes/suspension parts.
For more info on maintenance/repairs, check out Volvotips.com
1. Timing belt replacement (if past recommended interval) see: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...imingBeltChart
Listen for any pulley noises and if you decide to do the belts, replace any idlers and tensioners as recommended.
2. drain/fill coolant - don't use a chemical flush - use distilled water, replace thermostat/coolant overflow pressure cap (also consider replacing the coolant temp sensor at the same time since you'd be right there) - use a green 50/50.
3. oil+ OEM filter. If the car is not running synthetic already don't upgrade yet, I'd go with a high mileage non-synthetic (has seal softeners - synthetic may be too slippery for old, hard seals). Refer to the owners manual for proper oil weight.
4. Full tune up - use OEM plugs, new wires, cap, rotor.
5. consider replacing the fuel pump relay. I'd also give a good listen to the fuel pump to make sure there's no buzzing, extended cranking on start up etc. test to confirm proper fuel pressure.
6. clean the battery post terminals, check cables.
7. check AC charge. If this is a DIY, use a kit with a pressure gauge and temperature chart as you don't want to over charge.
8. inspect tires/brakes/suspension parts.
For more info on maintenance/repairs, check out Volvotips.com
940 wagons make great long distance haulers, they are comfortable, roomy and can carry a half ton of stuff easily.
avoid off brand/chinese parts like Uro like the plague.
I'd suggest looking for a non-turbo... While the power and torque the turbo gives you is great, they also are more likely to cause problems, oil leaks, air plumbing blowing apart when on the boost, etc, and also they get lousy gas mileage (15-18 mpg vs 25 mpg typical for a non-turbo). note, btw, that many 94/95's don't SAY Turbo on the back but in fact may have a turbo, only way to know for sure is to look under the hood.
avoid off brand/chinese parts like Uro like the plague.
I'd suggest looking for a non-turbo... While the power and torque the turbo gives you is great, they also are more likely to cause problems, oil leaks, air plumbing blowing apart when on the boost, etc, and also they get lousy gas mileage (15-18 mpg vs 25 mpg typical for a non-turbo). note, btw, that many 94/95's don't SAY Turbo on the back but in fact may have a turbo, only way to know for sure is to look under the hood.
I found another one here: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/6152124664.html
It looks great; I only wish it were lower mileage. Is 207k pushing it if I hope to drive cross-country without much worry? Keep in mind I'm happy to drop a few thousand having it serviced, but that number scares me lol.
If that wagon has been maintained I'd buy it in a heartbeat. 207,000k ain't high on a redblock.
My boy bought a '92 940 with 287,000k and 7 years of maintenance records for $1150. 5 years and $1000 in diy maintenance later it's coming up on its 335,000k oil change.
If you change the fluids regularly and don't overheat it the b230f engine and aw70 transmission will run a long long time.
My boy bought a '92 940 with 287,000k and 7 years of maintenance records for $1150. 5 years and $1000 in diy maintenance later it's coming up on its 335,000k oil change.
If you change the fluids regularly and don't overheat it the b230f engine and aw70 transmission will run a long long time.
1. Timing belt replacement (if past recommended interval) see: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...imingBeltChart
Listen for any pulley noises and if you decide to do the belts, replace any idlers and tensioners as recommended.
2. drain/fill coolant - don't use a chemical flush - use distilled water, replace thermostat/coolant overflow pressure cap (also consider replacing the coolant temp sensor at the same time since you'd be right there) - use a green 50/50.
3. oil+ OEM filter. If the car is not running synthetic already don't upgrade yet, I'd go with a high mileage non-synthetic (has seal softeners - synthetic may be too slippery for old, hard seals). Refer to the owners manual for proper oil weight.
4. Full tune up - use OEM plugs, new wires, cap, rotor.
5. consider replacing the fuel pump relay. I'd also give a good listen to the fuel pump to make sure there's no buzzing, extended cranking on start up etc. test to confirm proper fuel pressure.
6. clean the battery post terminals, check cables.
7. check AC charge. If this is a DIY, use a kit with a pressure gauge and temperature chart as you don't want to over charge.
8. inspect tires/brakes/suspension parts.
For more info on maintenance/repairs, check out Volvotips.com
If you can remember that right makes tight and left makes loose YOU CAN diy rwd volvos.
If your gonna take it to a shop it can get kinda pricey... but that happens with $100/hour labor rates.
Last edited by dytha99; May 30, 2017 at 10:17 PM.
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