My 97, 850GLT, 170K was in wonderful working condition prior to my move to the east coast (with the exceptionof an oil leakwhich wasfixed by the dealership, andlower and upper inner cooler hoses replaced due to thinning and cracks).7 day trip Arizona to Maryland worked great. I've been here for 4 months and have had MAJOR problems...check engine light is constantly on. Exhaust/emissions problems, and lean mixture codes return. Can't seem to find the problem on the car.

A week ago I was at a stop light (after a 30 minutes of off-and-on driving) and large blue/black smoke plume was behind the car...called/visited the mechanic and literally 10 minutes later there was no sign of a problem. Car isn't burning any more then normal amounts of oil (10W30). With the exception of small amounts of blue smoke at start-up, blue monster hasn't returned.

Just last night, had the blower (not the AC, just the REC) in the "on" position,then when switching out of 2nd gear into 3rd, the RPM's bubbled with no change of speed. Finally it switched (about 1-2 seconds) into 3rd, gained speed. Checked the trans fluid, it was 3/4 the length of the min-to-maxgauge above the max bar on the "hot" level.Turned off the REC and continued driving with no problem.

Do you think this is my car "adjusting" to the new area?? I don't know what to think.Any suggestions? This may be the down-fall of the car (I hope not!!). Now has 174 K. Here is some more information:

-Next oil change due in 400 mi. Last oil change was with Chevron, usually use Valvoline..added 1 qt. valvoline to the chevron-but still 10W30.
-Premium gas only. Gas cap seal good condition.
-Never flushed the tran fulid.
-Small build-up of motor oil near the cap. Seal is good to the best of my knowledge.
-Lower and upper inner cooler hoses replaced 4 months ago.
-Top of engine taken off 6 months ago to omit water that got into the spark plugs (due to over willing father to clean daughters engine)
-Radiator reservoir crack and replacement 7 months ago.
-New battery due to leakage and corrosion 7 months ago.
-Oil/turbo leak repair in connection tubes locatednear front of car onpassenger side, under engine. (by dealership) 9 months ago.

Should I get a trans fluid flush? Will an oil change help, could the problem be with the new Chevron oil??Should I still put in 10W30?

Please if you have any suggestions or comments, or anything that may help, please do! I'm in a new area, with a new mechanic I don't trust. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!

Tealtank!

 

Hello Tealtank,

Welcome to the forum, hope you find it helpful & enjoyable.

As to your problem, I would first like to know when the car received a good tune up the last time. Even though Volvo engines are noted for their durability, they are also very sensitive to neglect.

As to the oil burning (blue smoke) problem, it seems minor at this moment. However, I would replace the PCV system as an entire kit, check/clean the EGR valve and the throttle body. Also, using full-synthetic 10W-30 may clean out some deposits in the engine.

This is a vendor many of us here use often:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo.htm#850

If you can work on your car, you can save hundreds, but even if you don't, you can buy parts from vendors such as FCP Groton and have repairs done at a shop that specialises in Swedish/European makes, as long as they are willing to accept parts from customers (expect the labour to be a bit higher in such case).

As to the transmission fluid, I would leave it as is. The fluid should be changed regularly, even though many mfgs say it's good for the life of the car, and with your current mileage, unless it has been serviced previously, the introduction of fresh fluid may dislodge gunks that have built up over the years and may clog out small hydraulic passages, which in turn will cause more problems. However, if the colour of the fluid is not clear-red and if there is a burnt smell to it, then you maywant to replace it.

As to the check engine light, have a visit to a local auto parts shop such as AutoZone, that provides free OBD-II check engine light diagnostic service, and let them tell you the code & description that appear on the scanner (only if they use decent scanner, such as Actron CP9175). Then post the codes/descriptions hereand we can help you better.

>Do you think this is my car "adjusting" to the new area??
Negative. If you moved from Colorado, the engine may sense different atmospheric pressure but even so,the engineadjustsits operating conditions as demanded by the ECU (Electronic Control Unit).

EDIT: Make sure that the timing belt has been replaced at around 140,000 miles or in the last 5-6 years. The factory recommended replacement interval is every 70,000 miles (60,000 miles for '93 model) or every 5 years. The latter is not a factory recommended, but in general rubber parts start deteriorating after 5 years.

I hope this helps.


JPN

 

+1 for the pcv system replacement.

If you are buring a little bit of oil, the turbo center cartridge seals may be going out. My '97 T5 with 157,xxx miles would smoke at wot, but otherwise wouldn't burn oil. So it isn't a major concern, just keep your eye on it to make sure that it dosn't smoke heavily.
I used to run 10w30 full synthetic oil from valvoline in my car. The Max Life could also help your seals in the turbo.

Your car is adjusting to the new area. If you are running premium, then the octane just jumped from 91 to 93. Your ecu is learning the changes that the new higher octane fuel is allowing your car to do. But these changes are in no relation to what you are experiencing.

Does your car havea maunal or automatic transmission?

Nick

 

Thank you so very much for your replies and welcoming me to the forum!

I went to my trusty AutoZone and got the output codes. They are as follows:
-P0455 Large leak exists in the evaporative emission system
-P0303Misfire has occurred in the cylinder #3
-P0108 Manifold absolute pressure sensor of the barometric pressure sensor input is higher than expected for the current engine operating conditions

I have owned the car for 5 years, and regretfully never got a tune up. I'm so sorry I can just see all your faces cringe as you read this. In my defense, I have brought it to the dealership for the smallest problem, and they never said anything about a tune up.::Shoulder Shrug::

I have learned my lesson! I brought it to a mechanic who is going to check all the vitals. Like you, JPN the first thing he said is to change out the PCV system and to replace the timing belt (since I have no record of it being replaced). He is going to order a new gas and oil cap to rule out the emission leak on those ends, then work inward.

As for the cylinder #3 he is going to take off the lid and check the cylinders, spark plugs, and lines.Sowhat he's going to do it check over everything tomorrow, let me know what I need, and I will come back at a later date to fix the suggestions. After tomorrows look over, I will post what he says, and would love some guidanceas to what to do. Thank you in advance!

White Out- thank you for your comments. I have an automatic transmission. And currently use normal oil. Should I change to synthetic? Also, should I use the middle grade fuel instead of premium?


Thank you very much for your attention JPN and White Out!

Tealtank

 

Remember to change the thermostat too. The plugs cost pennies and they are easy to change. It's not even worth checking them if you have never changed them, just go ahead and put new ones in. The fuel economy will pay for the new plugs in no time.

 

Thanks for your attention guys!! I brought 'er in...Here's what the doc said:

Timing belt= $340.
Gas cap = $ 30.
Oil cap= $14.
Expansion valve and flush system= $240.00
PCV tank and remove old oil = $40.
Fix # 3 cylinder misfire = $465
Includes: New plugs, lines, coil wire, cap, and rotor

I can buy the gas and oil caps online.How does everything else sound?*Didn't get the thermostat suggestion until now Thanks Axelm

Also, as a quickmention, I'm not entirely sure I want todo business with this guy because when I went to pick upmy carit was rammed up on the curb, alsowhen I gothome one of the crews on the top of the engine was missing. Called to ask about it, his reply was that it was a hectic day, forgot to tell me one of this employees stripped itand he was going to order another when I ordered my parts. Do you think he and his employees are trust worthy?

Also, I am going to be relocated and away from the car Nov to Feb. Which problems should I tackle now and when I return (my friend is going to drive it once a week)?

Thank you so much for your help! Tealtank

 

Hi Tealtank,

I would still compare the parts price differences at:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo.htm#850

As for parts, "OEM" means the same parts that the dealer uses, meaning the top-quality parts (in general, and there are a few exceptions).

>Timing belt= $340.
Make sure that the shop uses OEM belt, idler pulley, tensioner pulley & hydraulic tensioner. It's best to buy them from FCP Groton and supply them to the shop, if the shop is willing to accept parts from customers.

>Gas cap = $ 30.
Negative. Go to a local AutoZone and you can find the exact replacement for approx $10 or less.

>Oil cap= $14.
Negative. http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850tuneup.htm But with shipping, the difference may be negligible.

>Expansion valve and flush system= $240.00
? If they are talking about the air conditioning, negative. It won't do any good. The A/C on 850 are known to fail, and the problem requires major disassembly of the dash, which takes approx 3-4 hours for skilled Volvo technicians, x2 or x3 times for 1st timers (including myself).

>PCV tank and remove old oil = $40.
Negative. With the mileage on your car, replacing the entire kit with a new kit is the best thing to do. Check the kit at FCP Groton (Turbo and Non-turbo kits are different, and both requires a new intake manifold gasket as well). If you have a family/friend/relative/co-worker/bystander([8D]) who's handy with tools and with a service manual (I highly recommend that you buy Haynes repair manual, approx. $18 which would be well-spent and you'd be able to do repairs on your own for 50% the time), you can do this on your own.

>Fix # 3 cylinder misfire = $465
>Includes: New plugs, lines, coil wire, cap, and rotor
Negative. With Haynes manual and a basic set of metric tools, Torx bits (star-shaped fastener removal tool) and Allen wrench & common sense for safety, you can do the plugs, wires (lines, including coil wire), cap & rotor all by yourself. Get the parts fromFCP Groton and we can walk you through the procedure. You'll be surprised how simple it is, though certain steps require utmost attention & care. We can tell you those too.

My simulation at FCP Groton came to be: $135, including shipping (this one depends on where you live) and spark plugs for Turbo. If your 850 is Non-turbo, it would be even less. You may have to spend $100-$150 for a basic set of tools at Sears Craftsman (the reason why I recommend Craftsman tools; quality, lifetime guarantee without any questions asked, and usually they're made in the USA!). If you're willing, I can supply you with a tool list for the job, and even if you aren't, you can still find a shop that accepts parts from customers. FCP Groton's price is much less, and they sell the exact same parts that the dealers use (OEM parts).

As for your current mechanic, I would forget him/her for good. A hectic day is not an excuse (unless his/her manager was @$$hole and kept pushing him/her[8D]). If I were you, I would try to find an independent shop that meets the following qualifications:

- Specialising in Swedish/European makes.
-Most mechanics are fully-certified Master ASE (Automotive Service Excellence, a national certificate).
- Uses OEM parts, or better yet, accepts parts from customers.
- Explains the trouble in the way you can understand, gives you accurate estimate for the job, and listens to you. And of course, the job done right.

Expect this type of shop to be a bit more expensive, but you would be happy to have spent extra for such shop. Today's cars have become really complex with the introduction of electronic control systems (some cars are more advanced in technology than passenger airplanes, actually) and many generic garages cannot keep up with the changing technology. Automotive service technicians are no longer "Grease Monkeys", they are actually really sharp.

The timing belt should be your very top priority. If the belt snaps while the engine is running, that's it.

In addition, I would also replace coolant when you do the thermostat, radiator hoses&fuel filter (the list may be endless[8D]).

Wish you the best of luck,


JPN

 

Hello again,

This thread may be of some use:

https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm

Copy & Paste from the above URL link:

ROUTINE TUNE-UP ITEMS:
1. *Spark Plugs (Genuine Volvo, Bosch Platinum +4/Iridium, Champion (Turbo: RC7GYC/NA: RC9YC or Bosch FR6DC), NGK Platinum/Iridium, etc...).
2. Plug Wires (French Bougicord is the OEM, Bosch makes them as well but I went with the OEM).
3. Distributor Cap & Rotor (Bosch is the OEM).
4. Air Filter (MANN is the OEM).
5. Fuel Filter (Bosch is the OEM).
6. Pour a large bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner or equivalent into the fuel tank & fill up with fuel.
7. Clean/service PCV system (different for turbo/non-turbo, as well as vehicle & engine VIN).
8. Serpentine Accessory Drive Belt (Continental Tech is the OEM). Longer belt is recommended.
9. Tyre Rotation (watch out for the rotation direction arrow on the sidewall).
10. Exterior/Interior Light Bulbs.
11. Checking for Transmission Fluid Level & Condition (should be clear red and no burnt smell).
12. Checking for Power Steering Fluid Level.
13. Checking for Brake Fluid Level (replace once every 3 years for maximum safety).
14. Checking for Coolant Level (must not be at MAX mark when cold, it has to be about the middle between MAX & MIN). Should you decide to replace coolant, use high-quality coolant and avoid cheap/generic brands. I use Prestone, as Volvo genuine coolant was $20/gallon. 50/50 will suffice for most regions, but colder regions may require 55/45 or 60/40.
15. Checking for the Condition of Battery (Do multimeter test & S.G test).
16. Cleaning the throttle body (Not sure about the service interval).

The above replacement items have different intervals, some may need replacing soon, some can be deferred until later. Also, it may not be a bad idea to do the alignment, if there is no servicing record. However, if the car runs straight with the hands off the steering, it probably is ok and can be deferred until later.

If the alternator is original, I personally would replace it NOW. Even though many alternators on 850's last a very long time, mine failed at 130,000 miles/12 years, and safety factor concerned, 100,000 miles/10 years is about the life for the original alternator. Replace it with a rebuilt/new Bosch (I recommend rebuilt Bosch with lifetime warranty; I got mine from Pep-Boys, about $220). Keep the original alternator (the one you take off) as a backup. If the alternator dies while you're driving, you will lose power assistance to the steering & brakes. Since Volvo's are very heavy, consider how much effort is required to navigate the car without the engine running, especially for females. In some situations, it could be lethal. You can save mere $240 or so, but would you leave yourself or yourloved ones in a situation like this? I wouldn't. And cars often break down at the worst time & locations. If the age of battery is unknown and the tests show poor results, I would replace the battery as well (I personally like Interstate Battery).

SMOKE CHART:
Here's a quick chart for the colour of smoke from the tail pipe:
Blue: Burning engine oil.
White: Normal water vapour, or coolant is entering the combustion chamber (should have coolant odor).
Dark gray/Black: A/F mixture too rich, fuel/emissions control problem or time for a good tune-up. Also, diesel engines sometimes put out black smoke and it's normal for them.
Other colours: Improper additives in the fuel/oil, or just a poor quality fuel.

HOW TO CHECK FOR TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL:
1. Drive your car for 15-20 minutes. This allows the fluid to reach normal operating temp.
2. Park your car with the engine running, set the parking brake fully and chock wheels.
3. With your foot firmly on the brake pedal, go through each "detent" of the shifter, starting from "P", and stay in each gear for 2-3 seconds. The sequence is: P-R-N-D-3-L-3-D-N-R-P.
4. Open the hood, pull out the transmission fluid dipstick, wipe clean with lint-free cloth (NEVER get even a tiny piece of foreign object fall into the dipstick tube).
5. Insert the dipstick, then pull it out again. If the fluid level is correct, it should be within the "HOT" mark orbetween 2 lines. There may be 2 different level marks on each side of the dipstick, and you want to use the "HOT" or "Warm" side, whichever shows higher level. When you do this, be careful not to burn yourself as there are some hot engine components around the dipstick.

If the fluid is low, add just enough fluid to bring the level up to "HOT" or between the 2 lines. Add fluid through the dipstick tube; a funnel with extension hose is very helpful for adding fluid. There are a few different transmission fluids available, and the one specified for 850 is "Dexron-III/Mercon".A quart is about $2-$4 I believe. There are many brands, but as long as the label on the bottle says "Dexron-III/Mercon", you can use any name-brand's product.

Lastly, the old adage "You get what you pay for" absolutely applies to maintaining Volvo, so when it comes to parts, you want to go with OEM or of higher quality. For complex problems, it pays to go to Volvo dealer/shops that specialise in Swedish/European cars, even though they charge more than other average town garages.

*Note on Spark Plugs:
Bosch Platinum +2 seems to have poor reputation, though I myself never had trouble with them. However, Bosch Platinum +4 and NGK Iridium seem to have excellent reputation. For turbo (B5234T), Champion RC7GYC is specified, whereas Bosch FR6DC/Champion RC9YC is specified for non-turbo (B5254S?). The easiest way is to buy genuine Volvo; Turbo $32 (approx)/NA $13 (approx).

Platinum & Iridium plugs are pre-gapped andre-gapping is generally unnecessary. If re-gapped, the center electrode may be damaged. Never drop a plug onto the floor/ground. Platinum/Iridium plugs do not require cleaning, as they are designed to self-clean, and are generally good for 60,000 miles/100,000kms. Upon installation, apply anti-seize compound on top few threads (closer to the hex), hand-tighten (extension bar may be used) until tight, then tighten an additional 1/4 turn for gasket-type or 1/8-1/16 turn for non-gasket type, or use a torque wrench to specified torque. Refer to service manual for specific procedure for your engine. Replace plugs only when the engine is cold.


Have a safe trip.


JPN

 

Everything that JPN said.

Make sure that the entire pcv system is replaced and that a new intake manifold gasket is used. This job is fairly easy, just very time consuming (like accounting for cars). I am almost positive that a minor tune up (plugs/wires/fuel filter/air filter) would make your car run much better. The timing belt should be done, that will play a major role in how much longer your car stays on the road. If you don't know if the belt was changed within the past 70k miles, have it inspected. It may not need to be replaced now.

I suggest that you keep running premium. It is much better for the car than the 91 was and going to 89 will hurt your cars performance. You do not need to run full synthetic oil, regular will be fine. Once the pvc system is replaced, the max life oil may be a good option for your car.

Nick

 

Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I found someone to help me, and he had been taking all of your advice! We got the parts, put them in and my little teal tank works like new!!

Actually I have to put in a plug for Volvo parts because when we took out the rotor, the brass spark-making-part was completely ground down to the plastic. He said that if some random person put this part in his hand he would have thought that the car could not run. Also, the plugs were super old, and had a huge gap. Still, my little girl kept running...

I've yet to replace the PCV system..that will be the next fix when I get some time.

Thanks to all who replied, I really appreciate you guys and the forum!! You're great!

*JPN-Thanks for the thread! I did not know most of the information.

 

No prob. TLC is the only way to keep a car going for a long time.

Good luck with the rest of the project, and come back anytime when you need more advice.


JPN