I dont know if the Cam Seal topic ever talked about. but i need to replace the front cam seal in the 240. is there more than one seal? I see oil leaking from there down to the water pump. Can someone give me some instructions and/or advice how to install it.

 

It is easy once you remove the timing belt and the pulleys.
It is really easy if you have the tool to install the seal.

There is 3 total you should replace. The Cam,The Counter balance shaft/Dist cam, and the crank.
The cam seal and the counter balance shaft are the same seal and then the crank seal.
Also make sure you clean the flame trap and all the hoses that go to it.

Usually the flame trap will get clogged and make the seals leak.

 

I changed my cam seal, however.. timing is off now.. couldnt start have to leave it at school.

othe seals decided not to change.. flame trap was clogged now its clear.. however parts start such as Napa.. doesnt know what the heck is a flame trap. I told me to search for something related to PCV.. but they were like HUH? so i just gave up.

 

The timing is easy to fix.

 

The camshaft seal requires no special tools, as Tech said you remove the timing belt and cam. The outboard and inboard bearing caps need sealant under them or they will weep.

Like this:


As for the no-start due to timing, I had the same problem because the timing marks on the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) had shifted. DON'T USE THEM. Instead find TDC at the crank (several methods to do this) then align the other marks (camshaft and distributor/balance shaft). Then verify the adjustment by hand-cranking the engine back around to TDC and making sure the marks still line up.

 

Yeah.. TDC, rotor at #1.. today we just took out fans,belt, pulleys.. to get to the timing belt and cover. And now the trick is to line up the timing marks. my car is at the shop another day....

 

If you keep the washer on the crank you will see a notch on the washer.Then you will see a line on the engine that matches up.
Set it up before you remove the belt and you should be able to see what I am talking about. Then it will be easy to reinstall the belt.

 

This was a "bear" for me...it helped to paint a line on the inner washer (closest to the engine) where the notch is on the outer washer.

The line on the engine looks to be at the 11 o'clock position from above (it's the centerline of the bores, and the engine is slanted). It's on the rib of the front main seal's cap-casting.

Very true. Now I can time the crank and cams in about 25 seconds...most of the time is spent cranking the engine around!


Good Luck.

 

I got the car started, everything installed. The timing belt was OEM, so has 3 lines on the belt which helped me put it on the right spot on the pulley. Now, maybe just me or the drive belts are louder than before. Maybe the belt conditionor i sprayed on the drive belt is bad.

 

Are the belts tight enough?

 

I suppose YES! check it and its ok!


today drove it, sounds normal.. but when I got home open the door with eng run.. i hear the shh shhh sshh.. unlike squeak from glazing on the belts. hm!! any ideas?? maybe when it stops raining in cali, ill open up the hood and squrit some water on the drive belts see if its that.

 

When yoy get a minute pull back the top cover and make sure the timing belt isn't rubbing on the cover.

 

thx ill check on that.. also will it be easy to replace the tailgate harness for 3rd light + defroster?? the other harness seems to be ok like rear wiper.

i know there are two harness but which is to what?

my 245 almost finish with repairs just the rear brakes that i said feel jerking, its again shaking while braking at high speeds like before, needs suspesion replacement, tailgate harness. Oil leak stopped.

 

The harness is time consuming. You will have to pull back the headliner some to loosen the hinge and remove it.

If the wires are becoming exposed test with a testlight and see what they are for.

 

the wires were actually cut from the previous owner.. i dont know why he asked his tech to cut it. I guess the right side is for wiper and something else and the left for brake and defrost because i found the 3rd brake light wires and then kind of tape them together until fix it.
so the hinge bolts/nuts are accessed from inside the car?

 

Yes you will have to pull back on the headliner to gain access to it.

IT has been 4 years since I have had to do one so I forget how to get the headliner apart without trying to do it myself.