Check Engine Light after Coolant Temp Sensor Replacement?!
#1
Check Engine Light after Coolant Temp Sensor Replacement?!
Okay, fixed my hot start problem by replacing the coolant temp sensor for the fuel injection ( the one in he back near the firewall ). So, now my 240 starts when warm
However, the check engine light is now on, and the codes are for coolant temp sensor faulty/missing......
Also, it take forever to start when the engine is cold, and has an extremely bumpy idle for a few minutes before it evens out...
Any ideas??
There was no check engine light before the replacement, just wouldn’t start when the engine was hot.
However, the check engine light is now on, and the codes are for coolant temp sensor faulty/missing......
Also, it take forever to start when the engine is cold, and has an extremely bumpy idle for a few minutes before it evens out...
Any ideas??
There was no check engine light before the replacement, just wouldn’t start when the engine was hot.
#2
Sounds like your new temp sensor is bad. It can be bad either telling the computer that it's too cold or too hot. Looks like the old one was indicating cold when car was hot while the new one is doing the opposite. The CEL is on for that reason. Why it wasn't on before, who knows, OBDI is far from perfect. What brand is the new sensor? Get an OEM, if possible, return the one you have now.
#3
Also check the connector wiring. Perhaps when installing the new one one of the wires broke. The best way to test the sensor is to ohm it out from the connector on the ECU. This verifies both the wiring and the sensor.
Which sensor did you replace? The one wire sensor or the two wire sensor? See the jpeg in this link:
http://www.vlvworld.com/VolvoRepairM...ck_sensors.jpg
Which sensor did you replace? The one wire sensor or the two wire sensor? See the jpeg in this link:
http://www.vlvworld.com/VolvoRepairM...ck_sensors.jpg
Last edited by act1292; 07-27-2018 at 06:06 AM.
#4
Sounds like your new temp sensor is bad. It can be bad either telling the computer that it's too cold or too hot. Looks like the old one was indicating cold when car was hot while the new one is doing the opposite. The CEL is on for that reason. Why it wasn't on before, who knows, OBDI is far from perfect. What brand is the new sensor? Get an OEM, if possible, return the one you have now.
I didn’t buy the OEM sensor, but I bought the aftermarket one off of IPd ( the $12 one ) maybe that’s my problem
#5
Also check the connector wiring. Perhaps when installing the new one one of the wires broke. The best way to test the sensor is to ohm it out from the connector on the ECU. This verifies both the wiring and the sensor.
Which sensor did you replace? The one wire sensor or the two wire sensor? See the jpeg in this link:
http://www.vlvworld.com/VolvoRepairM...ck_sensors.jpg
Which sensor did you replace? The one wire sensor or the two wire sensor? See the jpeg in this link:
http://www.vlvworld.com/VolvoRepairM...ck_sensors.jpg
thanks for the reply .
I’ll check the wiring from the ECU when I get home today.
In the picture you sent, I replaced the top right one.
#6
We all try to save $ but in some areas it's just prudent not to--sensors is one of those areas where I go OEM, even used is better than some cheap Asian stock. MAFS, relays, CTS, CPS, fuel pumps, I go OEM. Plugs, NGK copper, wires Bougicord, MANN filters. With 8 Red Blocks Volvos, 200k miles average, I never have issues.
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V0LVOGirl (11-29-2023)
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