The Decision

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 06-28-2010, 07:13 PM
schwalbe181's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Maine and Denver Colorado
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default The Decision

This is my first volvo, a 91 940t sedan. Bought if for 350, total investments are just over 600 dollars. Engine Knock, or could be fuel knock. Leaking Steering Rack, unknown small oil leak, exhaust needs to be replaced, whining powersteering pump, whining fuel pump, needs new timing belt and all accessory belts, and a correct oil change and fuel filter.

My question. Do you guys think its worth it. I dont want to spend a ton, but im willing to spend some if its going to last me for a while. Or else i need to just run it into the ground and save up for that 2200 mile trip im doing in mid august. Any insight, help, tips, anything would be great. n00b to volvos, even bigger n00b to turbos. Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 06-28-2010, 08:57 PM
swiftjustice44's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 2,580
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Just my 2 cents...I'd want to know if it was the engine knocking or fuel. T cars really prefer at least 91 if not 93 octane. You'll never hear me agree to run a Volvo into the ground...even though I witness it around town quite often. The sad truth is a redblock Volvo will run poorly longer than any other cars I've known. I see once proud 240's and 7/9's around town...puffing smoke, windows down w/ no a/c, whiskey dents all over...getting their owners to work or where ever. Bricks will typically run "hurt" a long time...but I hate like the dickens to witness it.
1. Knock analysis is a no-brainer. I'm sure you must have an associate that is somewhat savvy about engines...ask the mto listen. Pre-detonation from either low octane fuel and/or too advanced timing sounds totally different than con rods or main bearings rattling.
2. Leaking steering rack. Since the optimal solution is to replace the rack, there's nothing wrong w/ a little experimentation first. Nothing lost really. Lucas Power Steering additive is a high viscosity product that often quiets pumps and slows down rack leaks. If the rack still leaks after a week, add 1 capful of brake fluid to the power steering reservoir. This will swell the failing seals and may totally stop the leak...for an indeterminate period. Some will mention the deleterious effects of using brake fluid to the power steering system but frankly, the rack needs replaced and the pump is howling....what do you have to lose? If it means replacing the hoses along w/ the pump and rack in a year or so...that buys you a lot of time to address other issues.
3. Unknown small oil leak...often hard to trace when the entire engine is oil soaked. They do sell UV dye for motor oil that you add to the engine oil and then search w/ a UV flashlight. Even still, old cars...even Volvos, dribble...not the end of the world by any means.
4. Exhaust? If money's tight, just go w/ a $20 muffler from Summit and have your muffler shop weld it in. If you have some rusted pipe, they will usually piece in a new section for cheap.
5. Whining steering pump? The Lucas mentioned above may very well quieten it up. New drive belts tightened to specs help pumps be quiet also.
6. Noisy fuel pump...well, here again, noise is relative. Two tests for fuel pumps...fuel pressure and amp draw of the pump. I've run noisy under body in-line pumps for years w/o failure.
7. New timing belt. Rather unavoidable w/ any second hand car other than Mom and Dad's where you know the history. Replacing the T belt is cheap insurance. Even though it is a non-interferance motor, the belt is less money than a decent length wrecker charge! Accessory belts? Well, again that's chump change.
8. Correct oil change and filter. This is imperative w/ any vehicle but especially w/ turbos. And, it isn't a one time thing. It needs to happen every 3 months or 3000 miles...which ever comes first.
But hey...this is all academic if the motor is rattling and on its last legs. The expense of having the motor swapped professionally should be cost prohibitive. 3k would be a ball park figure.
Finally, please know that you have not invested $600...you have spent $600. An investment is applying money towards something that accrues greater value. Saving an old Volvo is often cheaper than car payments and full coverage insurance...but the money spent is seldom recoverable as cash...the savings is intangible...but you will have a well built car that can be made extremely fast (faster than a Fox body 5.0) for minimal money spent.
 
  #3  
Old 06-28-2010, 11:29 PM
schwalbe181's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Maine and Denver Colorado
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for the feedback, just what i was looking for.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
schwalbe181
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
19
08-22-2010 09:04 PM
Justin Mason
Audio/Visual Electronics
7
04-16-2009 03:26 PM
ilovemangoes
New Members Area
5
12-19-2007 07:11 PM
nightlog
Volvo 850
6
06-22-2007 11:16 PM
BecomingMore
Off Topic
7
03-13-2006 09:18 PM



Quick Reply: The Decision



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:18 PM.