Door chime all the time
I've just picked up a 1993 240 Classic wagon with one annoying trait: The door chime pings whenever the driver's door is open, irrespective of the ignition key position, lights off or on, etc. It's off when the door is closed, and you can of course kill it by pushing in the button on the switch on the driver's door jamb. But, why is this thing pinging away when the door is simply opened? Is the chime module faulty, or is there another cause?
it might think the key is in the lock? back of the ignition switch, there's a pin "S" that has a red-white wire, this wire goes to the chime relay module pin "S", and if the key is inserted, and the drivers door is open, the chime will bing bing bing. its possible the innards of the ignition switch are gummed up so its not detecting when the key is removed.
I'd either disconnect that red-white wire (and tape off the ends so they don't short) and give up on having the key-in-lock warning, or take the ignition switch off the back of the ignition lock, and examine it closely to see how the mechanical key insertion works the "S" switch contacts. maybe some DeOxit contact cleaner applied strategically would fix it.
I'd either disconnect that red-white wire (and tape off the ends so they don't short) and give up on having the key-in-lock warning, or take the ignition switch off the back of the ignition lock, and examine it closely to see how the mechanical key insertion works the "S" switch contacts. maybe some DeOxit contact cleaner applied strategically would fix it.
Got it! RickHaleParker on the Mathews Volvo site diagnosed it as two fused contacts on the ignition switch. The fix is a new switch, which is easily accomplished on the 240. We're good to go,
Replacing the ignition switch is easy, I said to myself. Hah! I bought a new ignition switch and after removing the knee bolster, top and bottom trim on the steering column, removing the instrument cluster, and fighting for an hour with the many-armed wiring harness that wound around the switch, I failed. There in was no way to access the screws holding the ignition switch in place from either top or bottom. Whoever installed that switch meant for it to stay. Others have been successful. I was not.
So, I removed the door switch, disconnected the wires, put some heat-shrink tubing on the wire terminals, replaced the deactivated switch, and declared victory. I can manually turn on the interior lights, and in 50 years of driving, I have never left the keys in the switch.
No more ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding !
So, I removed the door switch, disconnected the wires, put some heat-shrink tubing on the wire terminals, replaced the deactivated switch, and declared victory. I can manually turn on the interior lights, and in 50 years of driving, I have never left the keys in the switch.
No more ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding !
I have changed several of these on 740/760/940s, and it was pretty straight forward, not familiar with the 240.
On one of my 740's the key has to be moved all the way to the left and pulled out quickly, you then hear a metallic snap, and all is well. If I don't do that then the key comes out but the ignition chimes with the door open...
On one of my 740's the key has to be moved all the way to the left and pulled out quickly, you then hear a metallic snap, and all is well. If I don't do that then the key comes out but the ignition chimes with the door open...
Lev: yes, others have succeeded with the 240 switch where I failed. The complete obstruction of the screw heads retaining the switch by the wiring harness in my particular car (1993 245 Classic) was the issue. Trying to muscle that harness aside was well on the way to damaging a lot of 27-year-old ABS plastic. It just wasn't worth the risk or effort when I could simply disconnect the door switch and solve the problem.
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