gear shifter moves out of park no brake AND central locking not working

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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 01:35 PM
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Default gear shifter moves out of park no brake AND central locking not working

I’m combining these two issues into one thread because I think they might be related.

After swapping out the blower motor, my car (1986 Volvo 240 DL) is still apart but functional for testing purposes, the gear shifter moves out of park now with no key installed and no foot on the brake, and also the central locking system which worked perfectly before has stopped working.

Things I’ve checked so far:

Fuse 8 is good.
Both central locking system relays seem to be good when pulled and checked with my multimeter.
Both sockets for those relays output 12 volts with no relays in them when checked with my multimeter.

Any ideas? These above tests I did were for the central locking system, I don’t even know where to start for the gear shifter issue.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 02:36 PM
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there's no park interlock on 240's prior to 1991 or 1992. so thats a non-problem.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 02:38 PM
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Fair enough... but with no key?!?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by volvodriver99
Fair enough... but with no key?!?

there's no locking mechanism in the transmission shifter at all. that was added later.

there IS an interlock on the starter, so you can't start the car unless its in P or N. thats different.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 03:41 PM
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So without an interlock system it's also normal to be able to move the shifter out of park with no key in the ignition?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 03:46 PM
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the interlock on cars so equipped is what prevents that from happening, so yes, without an interlock, you can put it in any gear.

most stick shifts don't have any sort of interlock, even on the starter. you want to start the engine when you're in gear, its your problem.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 03:48 PM
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Okay good to know tx. Maybe I should close this thread now lol and start one just for the central locking system then 😒.

Any more ideas of things to check? The socket gave me 12v so power is getting to it...
 
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 03:49 PM
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i need to go run some errands, but I'll try and screen capture a wiring diagram so you can see how the central locking functions.

might as well stick with this thread.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 03:51 PM
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Okay tx. I've considered taking the driver door apart but since everything was fine before doing the blower motor I seriously doubt the issue is in there.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 10:11 PM
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did you forget to plug "S" in ? its a 3 pin connector with black, green, red wires, and should be near the left end of the dashboard.



btw, I guess I was wrong about the trunk key working the locks on a 240, that worked on my 740 but the keyswitch "F" shown in those diagrams above is the key in the drivers door, while the switch "A" is the plunger on the drivers door.

if you find that connector "S" and disconnect it.... on teh DOOR side, you should see 0 ohms from black to green when you push the lock up, and 0 ohms from black to red when you push the lock down.

on the car side, if you ground the red wire (jumper it to the black) the doors should lock, and if you ground the green wire, they should unlock.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2020 | 02:12 PM
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Since I’m getting 12 volts on my multimeter at each relay socket I would say S had to be plugged in for that to happen no?

And yes about no trunk on the 240 with the locks, just mentioned that in the other thread as well.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2020 | 02:31 PM
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S just has the drivers door switches on it. the drawing is kinda confusing. the power from the fuse panel comes through a separate connector U
 
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Old Jan 26, 2020 | 10:48 AM
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Okay this is solved. I had the wrong plug connected to the S connector. Once I found the correct one, I had it plugged in where the white relay goes, all the central locks worked again. Thanks for all of your help Pierce, the schematics and info you provided were priceless!
 
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Old Jan 26, 2020 | 12:23 PM
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its the little things... heh.

240 dashboard wiring is pretty chaotic, stuff like relays are just scattered all over the place.

the 740/940's are far saner, with a central relay/fuse panel and everything wired to it using unified chassis connectors at the firewalls, doors, etc.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2020 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by volvodriver99
Okay this is solved. I had the wrong plug connected to the S connector. Once I found the correct one, I had it plugged in where the white relay goes, all the central locks worked again. Thanks for all of your help Pierce, the schematics and info you provided were priceless!
Just a simple thing I learned years ago whenever you remove or cut a wire tag it with tape . Same with any connector you unplug. All parts you remove either brackets or screws/bolts tag and bag. Also as I mentioned whenever you fix something and after something doesn't work go back and check your work.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2020 | 08:59 PM
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Thanks jagtoes, as I mentioned I did check and re-check my work, multiple times, it was my first time in there though with a million wires everywhere so believe it or not... I didn't realize I had plugged the wrong plug into the S connector even though I was checking everything... and yes I took loads of pics upon removal, that's how I eventually saw that the wrong cable was plugged into the S connector, and I carefully store all removed screws etc... thanks for the lecture though...
 
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Old Jan 27, 2020 | 06:42 AM
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You are welcome.
 
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