it will run if i use either fluid but wont start i checked if i had fuel nothing at key on but fuel at cranking if there is a prior post please link it any suggestions will be appreciated

 

fuelpumpandmaybeagoodtuneupmaybefuelrelaycheckfirs t

 

already checked that i just cant figure which fuel pump

 

So...you have checked the fuel pump relay located behind the ashtray, yes?

 

yea & it was good so i lust finished pulling out the tank pump and hotwired it nothing so after work im going to get a new one thanks for the help

 

well i just finished putting the pump in it is still wont start but now i have 36psi before the fuel rail is there something electrical maybe im missing

 

Give us a bit more info. Did you just get the car and it was already like this or did it happen gradually or all at once. Also, how did you determine the fuel pump relay was good?

 

well i just got back from being out of town for t two months and was driving and the just died and wouldnt start back up i towed it home and was checking the fuel pressure and noticed i had only 22 psi at the rail instead of 36 so i tried the jump wire didnt here nothing from the back so i pulled the tank pump and had someone try the wire still nothing so i replaced the pump and strainer which was just the ring then tried it again nothing so i replaced the pump and then tried it again it worked with the relay in and now i have 36psi before the fuel rail i hooked everything back up and still wont start and checked spark got good bright spark coming from the #1 wire

 

Remove the oil fill cap and have someone try to start the car. With the cap off, you can see the cam shaft turning. If you see no motion in there, your timing belt is broken.

 

but i can still start it with either and it still will run it just wont start by itself

 

Yeah, my comment on cam belt was way off...forgot you said it would start on ether. Do you have injector pulse?

 

well i went and checked the adjustments on the tb it was off a little bit i adjusted it now it will start and run cold but wont start hot and the idle drops after its running for 5 mins to what looks like 750 or around there could the temperature sensor or something like that be wrong and how would you check the injector pulse

 

Your idle speed of 750 is fine. After you resolve the main issue, you can always tweak it if you want. To check injector pulse, you need a 'noid light. It simply plugs into the injector harness in lieu of the injector itself. It lights as the pulse is sent.

However, since the car will start on ether and then continue to run on its own, the issue lies elsewhere. Your has an engine coolant sensor that tells the ecu how much to richen the mixture. When it fails, it can create issues precisely as you describe. It is awkward to access; located on the cylinder head beneath the #3 fuel runner of the intake. There is a similar one at the #2, but it is simply for the temp gauge. It's as common for the sender to fail as it is for the connector itself to be the culprit. The wire harness attaching to the connector often gets separated, breaking the circuit.
Here's more info...http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900F...e Sensors, Etc

 

ill look in to the ect firstthen ill try the injector pulse ty

 

ok i just looked and there is 3 sensors under the intake one under the 2nd intake runner has 2 wires a yellow and black one and a solid yellow one sensor below that has a spring connector on it the one under the 3rd intake runner has a blue spring connector on it the reason i ask is the page u sent only says 89 to 90 would it be the same as a 88

 

ok i just replaced coolant temp sensor but no change but after i start it now the gauges are twitchy especially the temp gauge also it shoots to the middle after of a couple mins of running