Ok so this morning i did a compression test (took out all plugs, labeled the wires and made sure they didn't contact any metal) the test showed 180-185-185-180 but on the 4th cylinder when we cranked the engine i heard a pop sound near the 4th cylinder. I didnt think anything of it and now I have everything back on the right way and my car will not turn over. I did a quick test and I am not getting any power to the ignition coil thus no spark.

What in the world could have happened? My car will not start, it cranks but won't turn over!

I had the coil unplugged while we did the compression test so i dont know. Please anyone im dying here, i need my car and deeply regretting doing this basic test
I have the chrysler ignition and k-jet. This is a 1982 245 DL 2.1L

here is a pic of the engine bay:

http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/t...ent=volvo2.jpg

 

I would remove the blue wire from the coil and measure the voltage on it with the key in the "on" position.

 

Ok update , the tester i had was dead so i got a new one.

the coil is getting juice. I checked all my fuses with a tester and it seems number 5 (intank pump) is dead, the fuse is good but the wires behind it even show nothing and this is with the key on.

I jumped fuse 5 and 7 and the pumps are getting fuel to the engine , then i tried to start it will no luck. It just cranks and cranks and doesnt even come close to turning over.

im stuck in have no idea land.

 

The pumps won't run (no voltage on fuse 5) until you have spark. Next check for spark by holding a plug wire next to the fender. If no spark, make sure your distributor rotor is turning (timing belt is OK).

 

Hey thanks for clearing up the pump issue that makes sense.

My distributor is turning and my timing belt is fine. We checked for spark and there is none at all. The coil has the juice but there is no spark at all.

any other ideas? Maybe the crank position sensor?

 

pretty much isolated to the ICU or hall sensor, no crank position sensors until 1989. PM me with your email address and I'll send you the troublshooting flowchart (too large to be posted here).

 

I've heard of too many things going wrong to do my own compression tests. But then again I'm a novice.

 

If you heard a "pop" under your hood, could that have been the underhood fuse for the fuel injection?

 

thanks for the lead , so where is that fuse? I have no clue. And would that cause a weak spark? I have a very weak (orange) spark. I would very much like to find that fuse.

 

On my '85 the fuse is in a holder under the hood, bolted to the inner fender on the driver's side, just ahead of the strut tower and next to the coil. You should have a 25 amp fuse in there. If you heard a pop when you were doing your test, you might have popped it.

 

thanks everyone, it was my hall sensor. I replaced it and she fired right up.

Now after driving it a bit , my car has developed a serious hesitation, like its running out of gas.

 

By doing this you put extraordinary stress on the ignition coil and the rest of the secondary ignition system (i.e. cap, rotor, plug wires, etc.)!

When doing a comp test you need to do either one of these two things (assuming you are cranking via the ignition key switch):

1. Disable the ignition primary; can do this by pulling the appropriate fuse so the coil primary gets no 12v pwr, or just disconnectiong one or both of the primary wires from the coil.
2. or making sure the secondary (high voltage) has a path to ground. The easiest thing to do is pull the coil secondary wire from the dist cap and ground it using a heavy duty alligator clip lead. This is a bit more dangerous since it could spark, and remember, fuel/air mixture will be shooting out of the spark plug holes!

What you did is made sure the secondary high voltage did NOT have a path to ground so it built up very high voltages (in excess of 25 KV) until it finally found a path to ground; that was the pop you heard. Apparently it took out your hall sensor but would not be surprised if other ignition components were damaged too; most likely the coil itself. A weak/damaged coil could cause the symptoms you describe.

BTW: your compression is good though..