Keeping R12 AC Viable Option?
Im not saying it cant be done but think in a 240 would be hard to get them results. I had one of my 240's that we put a new compressor, drier, and condenser on they were all 134a compatible. My brother lives in New York your high was 88 today and humidity was 58%. Which is still hot.
Anyway, back to the 240 we tried different brands of 134a never got it down in the 50's vent temp. I wish I could get that with 134a its alot easier to buy than ordering the fridge.
Anyway, back to the 240 we tried different brands of 134a never got it down in the 50's vent temp. I wish I could get that with 134a its alot easier to buy than ordering the fridge.
As to the NY temps today it was 97* when I got off of the golf course at 2 so I don't know where your brother lives but I would like that temp here.
we had a cold front come in 70s at night and 90s during the day. Thought I was gonna have to get my winter jacket out. LOL. Im thinnking about doing a Evap. and fan change in near future. Thought about changing to an aftermarket setup. But? Will be alot of fabing.
Getting 38 degrees on a probe is easy. You turn the fan to the lowest speed and measure the air temperature. Most all systems should yield a reading like that on low fan speed.
The problem with the 240 is simply that the system is not large enough to handle the high heat and humidity of a hot southern US climate. The system was resized in 1991 and those are much better systems. For 1993 they are R134a with a booster fan and work quite well.
The only way to get an early 240 to produce good air conditioning is to either run it for 30 minutes at highway speeds to cool down the cabin over time or to upsize the components. I am not sure if the retrofit kit to upsize is available anymore.
The problem with the 240 is simply that the system is not large enough to handle the high heat and humidity of a hot southern US climate. The system was resized in 1991 and those are much better systems. For 1993 they are R134a with a booster fan and work quite well.
The only way to get an early 240 to produce good air conditioning is to either run it for 30 minutes at highway speeds to cool down the cabin over time or to upsize the components. I am not sure if the retrofit kit to upsize is available anymore.
Getting 38 degrees on a probe is easy. You turn the fan to the lowest speed and measure the air temperature. Most all systems should yield a reading like that on low fan speed.
The problem with the 240 is simply that the system is not large enough to handle the high heat and humidity of a hot southern US climate. The system was resized in 1991 and those are much better systems. For 1993 they are R134a with a booster fan and work quite well.
The only way to get an early 240 to produce good air conditioning is to either run it for 30 minutes at highway speeds to cool down the cabin over time or to upsize the components. I am not sure if the retrofit kit to upsize is available anymore.
The problem with the 240 is simply that the system is not large enough to handle the high heat and humidity of a hot southern US climate. The system was resized in 1991 and those are much better systems. For 1993 they are R134a with a booster fan and work quite well.
The only way to get an early 240 to produce good air conditioning is to either run it for 30 minutes at highway speeds to cool down the cabin over time or to upsize the components. I am not sure if the retrofit kit to upsize is available anymore.
Cooled down today to 94* but it still wasn't pleasant cutting the back acre. Somehow I think you would have a difficult time fitting a larger evaporator in your car with the location of where it is. You may want to document it for others if they want to do it.
Well, I have a 1992 as a donor, but I would rather not change the condenser. Thankfully, other than lately, it doesn't usually get oppressively hot here in the North East.
Condenser is pretty easy as it only requires pulling the grill and removing it from the radiator brackets. The evaporator in the car is the tough one as you need to remove most of the dash to get it out.
The evaporator in the R12 car just has hoses going into the evaporator, the 134a set up on my donor car has hard lines going into the passenger compartment, circled in yellow, so I assume if I were to change to the 134a dryer I would have to swap out the evaporator under the dash?
The evaporator in the R12 car just has hoses going into the evaporator, the 134a set up on my donor car has hard lines going into the passenger compartment, circled in yellow, so I assume if I were to change to the 134a dryer I would have to swap out the evaporator under the dash?
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IRMB
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
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Sep 11, 2012 07:35 AM



