Hi all. 1st post so be gentle. I bought a 1982 244 GL to rebuild as my son's first car. He was 4 at the time, now he's 14. Did all the usual fixes including a heater blower motor which brings me to the problem. I've got a blue/yellow wire with a female spade clip living in the center console without a home address! It just reaches the back of the switch panel on the center console and is hot all the time, ignition or not. Wiring diagrams show blue and yellow coming from fuse #12 running to backup lights, bulb sensor, ignition switch, driver seat heater (non-existent in my car), a/c relay & blower switch. All these wires are in place. Tracing the wire backwards, it enters a sheath with the wire that hits the a/c relay and runs down to the tunnel under the carpet & towards the shifter. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks up front!

 

I do believe my VCOA 240 greenbook CD has the diagrams for an 82 240, let's see....

hmmm. 1975-76, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1984, 1985, ... no 82.

well, from what you say... all the other stuff is working right, backup lights, etc?

does the car have electric windows? the main dashboard harness has a socket that's just about center behind the dashboard for the electric window relay, that socket has blue-yellow on it.

fuse 12 should be on with ignition only. you say this blue/yellow wire is always powered? then its not on fuse 12. maybe its something someone added for who knows what?

has this car had many stereos put in it in its 30 years ? I know our 87 is on its 4th or 5th stereo since we bought it new... stereo installers and amateurs do some funky wiring.

 

ps. cool for you for doing this for your kid.

kid #1 going away to his sophomore year of college (he was carless his freshman year).



kid #2 leaving for Portland to go to college, three years later,




that 1987 240 that we bought new now has estimated 400000-500000 miles on it.

 

May be it is to the Seat Heater which is "non existent" in your car? I wouldn't worry about it--just make sure it doesn't short out. There are lots of homeless wires in these (or any) cars--just look under the hood.

 

Thanks Pierce & Lev. The stereo is original. I do have electric windows and that relay is new to me (replaced several others). I'll see if I can run it down. Windows all work well though as does every thing else aforementioned. Leaning hard toward a shrink tube & tape coffin for this sucker and call it good. Been back there for 3 years since I did the blower. What can it hurt other than the lost sleep & stress I've accrued for 36 months. Hey Lev, do your quotes around non-existent mean that I have seat heaters I don't know about? Come to think of it, seems redundant with the heat the blower puts out.

 

Where are my manners? Thanks for the quick response guys! Great looking kids Pierce!

 

ok, if the windows work, don't mess with the window relay. it is on with ignition (the blue/yellow wire from fuse 12 goes to its coil), and turns on the power from fuse 10 to the window switches. ignition off, that relay turns off and the windows are unpowered.

 

if you have seat heaters, there will be an electrical connection at the seat, and heating pads on the bottom and back below the skin. there is a thermostat and pressure switch in the center of the seat bottom. the heater automatically turns on if its cold out and someone is sitting in the seat, it turns off when the seat warms up.. there's no other switches in the early 240's, later on they added switches near the parking brake.

btw, 240 electrics, I *highly* recommend replacing all the fuses with brass/copper ceramic proper European fuses. these are available from various vendors, Volvo 30 Piece Fuse Kit for 240 & 260 AFTERMARKET 105869 3E1000 is enought o do any 240, and have plenty of spares. the fuses you get in US car parts stores are plastic and tin junk that corrode.

I would clean the inside of each fuse contact with a clean pink pencil eraser, and pop in the new brass/copper fuse, with a touch of electric grease or deoxit on each end. throw out all the tin fuses. put the spares in a little bottle or what, and stash in your glovebox.

 

Love the fuse idea. However, difficult finding harness parts. My 86 240 has the usual insulation issues. I want to replace the harness from the center engine compartment grey plug to the passenger side. My other issue is the wagon drivers side under hinge harness. Both are a fourtune from Volvo. My car dont start over 92 degrees. Besides a crank sensor, what else could it be ?

 

an 86 is LH 2.2, and doesn't have a crank position sensor, it has a hall effect sensor in the distributor instead.

 

when it won't start, you need to determine if its fuel or spark, that cuts the problem space in half. there's really no point in anyone guessing without seeing the car.

 

Thanks. I know I have spark. I hear a click by the gas tank. Thanks for your instant reply. Just joined forum. Car is clean and worth investing in. Under 100 k, but a few issues. I also want to fix odemeter. Maybe a cluster with a tach would be nice if it is like to like connections. Big clock in dash does work perfect....
Thanks agaon

 

the tach can actually be dropped into your cluster in place of the clock, the cars that came with it have a small quartz analog clock (1"?) in one of the square panels just right of the instrument panel, like this,

 

you can use a jumper wire to test the 240 fuel pumps seperately, see In the Tank - 240 Volvo Tank Pump and Sender note the fuel pump fuse changes from year to year, check with the back of your fuse cover.

the in-tank pump makes a fluttery sound, you can hear it if you remove the gas cap and listen to the end of the pipe, its louder if the tank is lower on gas, quieter if its completely full and the pump is fully submerged.

the under-car main pump makes a soft whirrr. if you run it by itself via this jumper test with the fuse removed (or if your in-tank pump is not working), its louder and unhappy. if you hot-jumper the fuel pump fuse when its installed, both pumps run together, it should be smooth.

replace the fuel tank fuse you removed for those jumper tests, and connect a 12V test light to the tank pump fuse and ground. when you turn on the car, it should blink once. when you crank the car, it should light up, and go out about 1 second after the engine stops turning over. if it doesn't light up, but you're sure you have spark, you probably need a fuel pump relay.

 

You should consider starting your own thread about your car. I see you have just joined here, welcome!. To post your own thread, go to the forum tools box at the top of the forum page and click on "start a new thread" in the drop down menu.

It just gets kind of a mess to post on old threads and bring several back to the active page because it bumps down or off the first page current questions from other members.

 

This is at least the THIRD thread bumped by a person other than the Original Poster.

Start your own threads, dooooood!!!

 

Wow. Sorry bud. Guess there us no learning curve for a first timer here. Glad to see there are thread police. See.... I learned thread......and new.
thanks...lol

 

You seem to have enough internet lingo in your lexicon to know what "new thread" means....