parts to replace when getting a 240dl...?
hey ya'll new to the forum and new to the car! i was just wondering since these are old cars (1986) what are some items and parts and etc. to replace and fix right off the bat ? i just basically want to know what are mandatory things a person should replace and stuff when buying a used 240DL so it runs good..?
another question would be ( yes this is two parts sorry ) i want to take my car to the mechanic i ave a mechanic who specializes in old euro cars and stuff, what should i ask him to do/look at that could have problems. should i just tell him to look over the whole car and inspect it and see what things should be replaced and fixed or should i approach him in a different way?
thanks,
tommy G.
another question would be ( yes this is two parts sorry ) i want to take my car to the mechanic i ave a mechanic who specializes in old euro cars and stuff, what should i ask him to do/look at that could have problems. should i just tell him to look over the whole car and inspect it and see what things should be replaced and fixed or should i approach him in a different way?
thanks,
tommy G.
Welcome to the forum, will you happen to be doing any of this work yourself, because some of it is silly easy if you have the time.
Get the basic's done, can't go wrong with that. Oil, spark plugs, plug wires, coolant, hoses, air filter... When was the TF last changed? Brake fluid?
You'll want to check the flame trap as well, make sure that and the oil trap is not clogged, as well as the PCV hoses.
Take off that preheater hose that goes to the intake box as well. It's aluminum I believe, or so it's dull metal coming from the exhaust manifold.
I would check the fluid in the rear differential as well.
Other than that, I would either replace the fuel pump relay, or have a good know spare around.
What's the mileage, timing belt should be done every 50,000. Hows the other belts?
Hove your guy look at the bushings and mounts, those could be replaced, as well as some key front suspension parts. Make sure that stuff is genuine Volvo as well. Forget URO and MEYLE stuff...
That's about all I can think of right now.
Get the basic's done, can't go wrong with that. Oil, spark plugs, plug wires, coolant, hoses, air filter... When was the TF last changed? Brake fluid?
You'll want to check the flame trap as well, make sure that and the oil trap is not clogged, as well as the PCV hoses.
Take off that preheater hose that goes to the intake box as well. It's aluminum I believe, or so it's dull metal coming from the exhaust manifold.
I would check the fluid in the rear differential as well.
Other than that, I would either replace the fuel pump relay, or have a good know spare around.
What's the mileage, timing belt should be done every 50,000. Hows the other belts?
Hove your guy look at the bushings and mounts, those could be replaced, as well as some key front suspension parts. Make sure that stuff is genuine Volvo as well. Forget URO and MEYLE stuff...
That's about all I can think of right now.
Last edited by Burn Stains; Mar 2, 2012 at 10:36 PM. Reason: No reason.
Welcome to the forum, will you happen to be doing any of this work yourself, because some of it is silly easy if you have the time.
Get the basic's done, can't go wrong with that. Oil, spark plugs, plug wires, coolant, hoses, air filter... When was the TF last changed? Brake fluid?
You'll want to check the flame trap as well, make sure that and the oil trap is not clogged, as well as the PCV hoses.
Take off that preheater hose that goes to the intake box as well. It's aluminum I believe, or so it's dull metal coming from the exhaust manifold.
I would check the fluid in the rear differential as well.
Other than that, I would either replace the fuel pump relay, or have a good know spare around.
What's the mileage, timing belt should be done every 50,000. Hows the other belts?
Hove your guy look at the bushings and mounts, those could be replaced, as well as some key front suspension parts. Make sure that stuff is genuine Volvo as well. Forget URO and MEYLE stuff...
That's about all I can think of right now.
Get the basic's done, can't go wrong with that. Oil, spark plugs, plug wires, coolant, hoses, air filter... When was the TF last changed? Brake fluid?
You'll want to check the flame trap as well, make sure that and the oil trap is not clogged, as well as the PCV hoses.
Take off that preheater hose that goes to the intake box as well. It's aluminum I believe, or so it's dull metal coming from the exhaust manifold.
I would check the fluid in the rear differential as well.
Other than that, I would either replace the fuel pump relay, or have a good know spare around.
What's the mileage, timing belt should be done every 50,000. Hows the other belts?
Hove your guy look at the bushings and mounts, those could be replaced, as well as some key front suspension parts. Make sure that stuff is genuine Volvo as well. Forget URO and MEYLE stuff...
That's about all I can think of right now.
Read the product description for this item and you will see why Burn Stains wants you to toss the pre-heat hose:
Airbox Thermostat Valve (scroll down a bit)
Replacing the flame trap is essential; only Volvo uses this silly device, and if it get's plugged completely you won't like the result. (Blown seals, oil all over the engine compartment, possible engine damage)
Replacing the timing belt is also an excellent idea unless you know for sure when it was done last and it's gonna be hard to tell unless you have one of those rare 240s with a working odometer. You're not dealing with an interference engine so if it breaks you won't bend the valves, but it will definitely strand you. IMHO, these should be near the top of your to-do list.
Airbox Thermostat Valve (scroll down a bit)
Replacing the flame trap is essential; only Volvo uses this silly device, and if it get's plugged completely you won't like the result. (Blown seals, oil all over the engine compartment, possible engine damage)
Replacing the timing belt is also an excellent idea unless you know for sure when it was done last and it's gonna be hard to tell unless you have one of those rare 240s with a working odometer. You're not dealing with an interference engine so if it breaks you won't bend the valves, but it will definitely strand you. IMHO, these should be near the top of your to-do list.
Last edited by Joseph/TX; Mar 4, 2012 at 02:02 AM.
As Burnstains says, you could just leave it open. The pipe just routes air heated by the exhaust manifold to the airbox and you only really need that in arctic conditions. The inlet that you would be covering up is before the air filter, so there's no problem with unfiltered air getting in. If you tape it over, the air will get in through the main inlet, which is on the drivers side, somewhat higher up.
As Burnstains says, you could just leave it open. The pipe just routes air heated by the exhaust manifold to the airbox and you only really need that in arctic conditions. The inlet that you would be covering up is before the air filter, so there's no problem with unfiltered air getting in. If you tape it over, the air will get in through the main inlet, which is on the drivers side, somewhat higher up.
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