Proper cap to rotor correlation.
I am doing a timing belt, cam, intermediate, crank seal job on my neighbors 93 240 and taking pictures to put together a step by step guide. I have looked at several excellent guides.
They go into great detail about gear, belt position, even rotating the crank CCW 60 degrees to check if the notch on the front belt guide matches up with the double line on the belt.
I would like to include in the guide I am putting together pictures of the rotor position with the cap removed as another way of checking to see if you have everything together correctly.
I do not want to have any pictures that I am not sure are the way the car came from the factory.
Here is a picture with the cap on with #1 marked and a picture of the rotor with the cap removed.


Is number one in the proper position and is the rotor about where it should be after installing a timing belt.
I would really appreciate it if someone who knows exactly how these cars looked from the factory in 93 help choosing pictures and writing the text contained in the guide.
If intrested please PM me and I will link you to the pictures to see if I am missing something and help put the text and pictures together.
They go into great detail about gear, belt position, even rotating the crank CCW 60 degrees to check if the notch on the front belt guide matches up with the double line on the belt.
I would like to include in the guide I am putting together pictures of the rotor position with the cap removed as another way of checking to see if you have everything together correctly.
I do not want to have any pictures that I am not sure are the way the car came from the factory.
Here is a picture with the cap on with #1 marked and a picture of the rotor with the cap removed.


Is number one in the proper position and is the rotor about where it should be after installing a timing belt.
I would really appreciate it if someone who knows exactly how these cars looked from the factory in 93 help choosing pictures and writing the text contained in the guide.
If intrested please PM me and I will link you to the pictures to see if I am missing something and help put the text and pictures together.
Last edited by Hookem; Oct 4, 2010 at 10:30 PM. Reason: bad pic link
From what I can see in the pictures, all looks proper. I thought that if you pull the cap off of the distributor, there should be a line on the rim that marks the rotor position for firing the #1 cylinder. I can't see it in your pictures - but I am going from memory here.
For the 89-93 240's ... they used the LH2.4 fuel system so the spark timing is controlled by the crank position sensor and it isn't adjustable. So the cap/rotor position only needs to be close.
My 86 240 uses the LH2.2 system which has a hall effect sensor in the distributor. So the timing is adjustable. After aligning all three marks during my belt change I verified the timing with a light ... it was dead on at 12 degrees so distributor adjustment wasn't necessary.
My 86 240 uses the LH2.2 system which has a hall effect sensor in the distributor. So the timing is adjustable. After aligning all three marks during my belt change I verified the timing with a light ... it was dead on at 12 degrees so distributor adjustment wasn't necessary.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
chef
Volvo 850
8
Sep 20, 2008 06:20 PM
yellow95
Volvo 850
6
Apr 22, 2006 12:42 AM




