After winning the fuel pump battle, my little 940 runs excellently. Now, I've got some exhaust issues (as in the muffler likes to rattle and I'm not quite sure how the previous owner thought he "got it on there tight"), but that's not my concern at present.

How can I tell what sort of rear suspension I have, so that I can make sure I get the correct rear caliper for my 92 940. Is there some easy way to tell if its IRS or "regular"? Also, do I have to replace both calipers (right and left), or will it be find just replacing the one that's supposedly frozen/rusted stuck? I can't imagine why I'd need to do both, but the brake shop (heh) said they'd really prefer doing them both. I'm sure they would! Car has 162k on it, calipers have probably never been off the car. And the way it sounds with the grinding, I'm not quite sure the rear brakes have _ever_ been changed either.

 

"little" 940? ....

anyway, '92 940 doesn't have IRS. only '91 940se has it-all other 940 have a solid axle.

you don't have to do both calipers, but the logic is that if one suffered, so did the other. if you do both, they'll both work back and forth at the same rate. if you plan on keeping the car, do both.

 

Finances are _extremely_ tight, and if I can get away with just doing the one this weekend, and waiting until the end of January to do the other, that's what I'm gonna do, since it seems a pretty easy swap out. I will do brakes and rotors on both wheels, but....

Thanks for the info. And yes, little. As little as the Spitfire, no. But smaller than the other cars

Steve

 

Stick your head under the rear of teh car. If you see this:

You have live axle and not IRS.

Regards, Andrew.

 

No 940 Wagon has IRS either, except maybe post facelift European 940SE models which were really 960's (they didn't sell those in the US, the US model 940's stopped with 1995)

re: doing both brakes, indeed. I'd hazard to guess if its as bad as described, you should plan on doing both rotors (either machining or replacing depending on thicknesss) as well as rebuilding both calibers, and new pads. the wheels bearings should probably be checked too, and regreased or replaced.

 

http://www.swedishbricks.net/ModelFAQ/700model.html future argument solver!
Replacing only one caliper is not the end of the world. Please note that recent law suits have made reputable shops leery of "budget" brake jobs. Shops have tried to save customers money only to be sued for improper work. Calipers are extremely simple devices; failure is almost always the rsult of neglect. Pads get too thin, the piston comes out too far and tips within the bore and fails to retract. Caliper guide pins don't get greased and jam. If you do the work yourself, by all means do the pads on both sides and rotors if they need replacing. RWD Volvos have thin rotors from the get go...the difference in thickness between new and replace is not much...they can usually only be turned once and that only if their is not much run out. Rear axle bearings are greased from the differential, replacing them is not for the faint of heart but do check the axle seals on the inner side of the brake backing plate. Look for evidence of seeping indicated by lots of dirt stuck to ossified gear oil. Again, replacing seals is right up there with swapping out the bearings so...just make note of the condition so you can plan accordingly.

 

http://www.swedishbricks.net/ModelFAQ/700model.html Not a bad compilation but does have quite a few inaccuracies so it's far from "an argument solver"!

 

So...do you fart on elevators and leave without explaining yourself too? If there are "quite a few" inaccuracies please illuminate us...I for one hate to be in the dark. These threads are all about information and correcting misinformation. If you're sitting on some info that corrects the SwededishBricks FAQ, how about sharing it instead of merely making broad statements? My issue with the write up is not inaccuracies but rather it is incomplete...but then after all, it is a list of FAQ's...not really meant to be an encyclopedic reference.

 

so, it's not an "argument solver",then?

btw, i'd love to know what kind of explanation one gives after farting in the elevator...

 

my issue with that FAQ was that it was hard to read with that annoying background graphic overlayed by thin text

and yes, somewhat incomplete. be nice to have a tabular timeline kind of format showing the various submodels and changes. Of course, this gets complicated by the world models being some different than the US market models.

 

check this out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_700_%26_900_Series The info here is similar, more complete... like many other sources all over... no big deal.