Happy New Year Everyone!! As the title said, I recently came across a $ cheap nonrunning rebuilt titled 1982 K Jet 240.

I am a mechanical engineer and a 740 owner, and I rebuilt my 740 from the ground up after it had sat for 10 years. From fuel pump to driveshaft to heater core, it was a hell of a job and after 2 years, it is finally running like a normal car.

Here is the condition of the 240:
1. nonrunning, motor spins, b21f+aw70
2. It is not well taken care of, 4th owner, there are some oil leaks, and the ODO stopped at 100k, but that was the same mileage 10 years ago according to Carfax.
3. small rust spot at the rear windscreen
4. missing the quad headlight surround
5. Rebuilt title, but still I feel it is very cheap prices in 2024 even in california

I am not too familiar with 240 market, coming from 740 I think I can understand some EFI but I never had K jet before, is it a lot to get it running? So far I can only think it is the fuel pump that is preventing it from running, after all the redblock should be a fairly robust machine imho.
What do yall think? should I go for it?

 

" class="post_inline_image" data-size="1276x958" data-src="https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/volvoforums.com-vbulletin/1276x958/volvo_4976029a5b704253a1977ee1f41cdbaade314d11.jpg" loading="lazy" />
rust spot

 

Yes - if it has sitting -the kjet can be VERY expensive to make work again. Many have put the Weber 2 barrel manifold/carb kit on when faced with making a kjet fuel system work.

Look up prices on a kjet fuel distributor and control pressure regulator - and you will probably pass on the car. (considering it's been totaled previously and has expensive to fix rust. Unless - you really like to punish yourself with cars that cost more than they will ever be worth to fix!)

 

you may be able to find a K-JET service manual on eBay. They are not overly complicated systems but replacement parts may be hard to come by, particularly rubber bits like the boot that goes over the metering plate and the injector o-rings can harden. Also there's an idle control valve that can stick and the hose can crack. To check the ICV, it should "hum" when powered. They usually last forever but should be cleaned from time to time. As to the weber replacement, there's some other threads discussing the approach and benefits. My only other contribution would be to drop in a small block V8! Check out jagsthatrun.com for a design and adaptors etc if you want to dream a bit :-)