Hey pierce. Yes that clamp on the lower (OUT) hose is removed. That's the impression left by the clamp, which also feels like where the hose is practically fused to the pipe. In view of the difficulty I opted for a different way of filling up/soaking the core, which I here submit to you guys for judgment, in case I'm missing something. (Funnel is still holding vinegar which had not yet dropped out of sight when cork plug began leaking; tried to max out fill/force out air bubbles by holding vinegar level in funnel higher than core while pouring.)



You're right about not skimping on clamps. Wrestling with cheap-***, catching/slipping, hard-to-reach and/or impossible-to-see-while-working hose clamps like the one on the left (AutoZone, ugh) has been the worst f*cking part of this whole thing. Can you recommend a good source for clamps like the one on the right (the one pictured happens to be made in Sweden)?

 

FYI the clamp on your right should still be good. Just drop it in a cup of oil for a few hours and it should be good to go. Also look up Fuel Injection hose clamps which are similar in design .

 

They are both the same design, it's just that the quality of the one on the right is much better, being Volvo OEM, and still perfectly usable.

 

As a Senior member of this site. This has to stop!! This clown is just digging up endless futile questions.
regurgitating old issues and rewording them and you guys are just forum derilicts entertaining him!!!!

Please read the signs of the game!!!
Goldenblock

 

Yeah, whatever you say Block! From now on we will all check with you, as Honorable Senior Member, before we entertain any questions. After all, you with your 4,000,000 miles Volvo, probably know best! Thank you for your wise and timely command!

 

Dude, I can't tell you how much I wish I were done here and didn't have to keep bothering people with my ignorant flailings.

Flushed last night. I'm worried I've screwed up somehow (because I'm ignorant!). Couldn't get the lower hose off, tried firing water down it. Got some cloudy-looking water to come out the IN pipe, but is anything but firing directly into the OUT pipe worthless? Had the transmission fluid dipstick out, not sure if water got in. Fired water briefly into the IN pipe a couple of times to try to break sh*t up, left it for a second soak overnight, this morning noticed vinegar slowly dripping onto the driveway, and not from my cork plug. Did I overdo it with the second soak? Did I break something firing water in the IN pipe? Does this mean it was always leaking, which somehow I never noticed despite being under this car for hours? Is the heater f*cked?

 

good news is, a heater core is easier to replace on a 740/940 than it is on a 240. bad news is, its still a bitch of a job.

 

Well at the risk of getting reported by Goldenbrick I'm here to scam you some more with my bull**** problems. Seriously I wouldn't blame you all if you've had enough of this sh*t already even if you do believe I'm for real.

Figured out that the drips I was seeing before were from where I was pouring into the OUT hose so I don't think I have a reason to suspect the heater of leaking. I have rust on my transmission dipstick now from the water that I guess actually did get in during the flush, oh well, let me know if I'm f*cked there. The flush itself I think went well, saw a big burst of cloudy white water pop out when flushing out the second vinegar soak and the water that I poured in after that came straight out, none of that falling out then stopping then more falling out like before. But today when I connected everything back up to see if I finally had decent heat, it WOULDN'T. F***ING. START.

It's been getting very cold. Had a very hard start about two weeks ago when a sudden cold snap and surprise squall covered the car in snow (hood left open, of course!), only got it to turn over after cranking solidly for almost 90 seconds. It was cold this morning so I thought I just had to keep cranking. Nothing. Tried starter fluid. Nothing. Something told me to check the plugs. Soaked. Dried them off, waited for evaporation before putting them back in, tried again. Soaked them again.

Found a post by some guy somewhere who said his 1990 740 GL would flood every time it got below 40 F and the engine had been cold even half an hour; he said he just unplugged the cold start injector and it was fine (also found a post about a TSB for rewiring the cold start injector for Regina system cars, Volvo TSB 23-135 from January 1990, haven't read it yet). Tried unplugging it. Didn't change anything.

Then I checked the coil. Judging from my researches I think I may have destroyed it (maybe with my all futile cold crankings), but I'm submitting my resistance readings to you guys for confirmation. I am reading here that primary resistance should be .6 ohms (+/-.2 ohms) and that secondary resistance should be 4000 ohms (+/-1500 ohms). I don't know what the f*ck I'm doing of course so I'm attaching a marked-up pic to indicate where I'm taking my readings from so you can tell me I'm doing it wrong:



A to B: .012 ohms
B to C: 6.27 k-ohms
A to C: 19.13 k-ohms

Battery voltage is good.

I am including a pic of one of my four (identical) spark plugs with part number legible so you can tell me whether my coil died because my plugs are gapped too wide.

Still grateful for the education. Even though I'm a bot. (Machines can learn too...)

UPDATE: I know you guys already figured me out but I enjoy making stuff up so much I'm gonna keep going. Went out today after letting gas evap, pulled battery cable to clear ECU memory, reconnected and then with cold start injector still disconnected tried starting. It was trying, chug-chug-chugging, coming close, much like when I was trying to cold-start that snowy morning, but it never actually started. So apparently unplugging cold start injector did make a difference (no chug-chugging yesterday). Pulled high tension cable from bottom of distributor, held to engine block while my son cranked. Spark was not only orange but slender, I think sometimes missing spark all together (kind of reminded me how engine had just been chugging then nothing then chugging then nothing). Coil readings still same. (Also, starter did take kind of a bath during the core flush before I rigged up a "water-wall" to shield it as well as other parts, like the IAC motor... how would I know if I water-damaged it?)

 

Hey guys, it's your favorite newbot. Replaced the coil. Starts and runs beautifully. Heater running crazy hot after installing new OEM thermostat, which apparently also brought coolant temp sensor back online as temp gauge has sprung back to life. A happy ending too good to be true? Yeah you're right none of this actually happened. Except actually it did. Now I'm gonna drive this beautiful thing (yes, it does drive!) down to my Volvo guy to get the brakes done bc it's too cold to work outside by this point (heater working right on time! (wow now you KNOW this was all a fairy tale!!))

Seriously guys, couldn't have done it without you. Very grateful for your help (particularly for Lev's step-by-step guides).

PS. These are the insides of my left and right front wheels respectively. Because I actually do exist and have a 1990 740 GL to which TSB 23-135 was never applied. DM me for VIN number if you want, you totally won't get your computer infected with malware.

 

You better start applying some seriously copious amounts of penetrant to those things, (I'm very paranoid about rust). You overcame some pretty nasty rust at the fuel pump so you are good for it... Do you really need new brakes, how much pad do you have there now?

 

gads, thats scary looking.

here's a front brake and stuff on my California 740


yes, new rotor and bushings and ball joints and stuff.

 

Guys! Good to see you again! Hey Lev, don't know about pad thickness, haven't pulled anything apart yet, is there a way to see pads without pulling anything apart? This is how un-seeing my eye is, it all just looks like an orange glob of awful, I should probably just watch a basic YT vid on brakes so I can start distinguishing things. I had a friend tell me I should angle-grind everything off, it all looks so fused, but you think B'Laster would break through eventually? (If it weren't for a turn in the weather for the better up here in central New York I wouldn't even be contemplating this; like you said, Lev, I'm here for it, but still wondering how fast I can learn/work here before winter comes in force...reallllllly jelly of pierce and his immaculate 740 underside out there in Cali...)

Honestly I wonder whether I should just blast away all the creaks and groans in the wheels Italian-tune-up style... haven't even had this thing doing 30MPH yet since resurrecting it, am itching to... but don't want to not be able to stop, and it takes just a little longer to stop even at 10MPH (driveway-loop speed) than I'd like...

Speaking of drive-ability and rust-terror... saw this had fallen off in the driveway... hoping it's just a piece of a bracket/clamp of some sort (like I'm seeing around the exhaust pipe, though it looks like all that pipe's brackets are in place)???....





And at the risk of seeming like a spam-bot all over again, can you guys tell me wtf this thing is underneath the left front fender and whether I've put the quick-connects back on correctly and whether the blue and yellow wires that are hanging free (only yellow wire shown, at bottom of pic) are problematic?.....

​​​​​​

Thanks again guys.

 

that looks like a horn, and no ide what that yellow wire is for. there should be two horns wilred in parallel, they are two different tones so they make the classic dissonant HONK

 

Hey pierce thanks. Yes it does seem that when I honk the noise is coming from underneath the front left bumper where this thing lives (I'm actually getting a HONK whichever way it's wired). Not seeing another thing like it under the bumper on the other side or anywhere else; I think I am also hearing only one tone. Perhaps a second horn is what the blue-black and yellow wires should be connected to? Thanks for the education as always.
PS. Am now seeing in the car's wiring diagram (fig 1. here) that the horns should be wired in parallel using blue-black and yellow wires so now I don't know what's going on (not of critical importance, just like to know rather than not know)

 

FWIW, I'm thinking my 740 had the horns right in front of the radiator

those crimp splices are definitely NOT original.

 

Well, that fallen piece looks like something from a ship wreck under water a couple of hundred years! I pride myself on being able to id any part from a 7/940 but that is beyond recognition!
No idea what the yellow wire is. See if there is something close by it might go to?
The brake pads should be visible where the caliper meets the rotor, should be able to see them from the side. Turn the rotor and you should see where the pads meet it.
What brake action do you get now? Even at slow speeds? Brakes are pretty fool proof, i.e. they rarely just fail completely without warning. Noises? Pulling? Grinding? Pedal action? What's the brake fluid like?

 

Hey. I can now see from my own photo that there is a pair of yellow/blue-black wires emerging from that sleeve, one crimp-spliced to that horn and the other doing nothing. So. Looks like I have one horn. (Also looks like the wiring to the dual horns is related to the wiper/washer switch? There are a lot of things I don't understand about that wiring diagram, like why it is showing wiring for headlight wipers I don't have, or why it shows wiring to a "main pump" and a "tank pump" for a Regina system, but I digress.)

Re: brakes. Oh yes, grinding. Mostly from left, I think rear, pulsing with tire rotation. No pulling I don't think. Pedal action is meh, need to go halfway to floor to get significant stopping action. Brake fluid reservior is full; don't know how to gauge delivery to brakes themselves. I will look at pads in the daylight and serve up some pics as per usual...

 

The second horn gone?
Sounds like you do need to attend to the brakes. I hope you can overcome the rust!
There is a lot of variations on the Volvo cars sold in the world with options not all had, so don't expect the diagrams to be perfect, I personally don't even like to rely on them...

 

Soaking has commenced...

... which has put most of the contours in relief, breaking up the orange glob of terror somewhat...

...here for it...

 

man, I'd be afraid to ride in a car that's got that much rust in the critical components.