Engine was replaced last fall with a "1993" engine. The original engine came with the car. In looking at the engine and seeing the burned off set of tires in the parents garage, I can assume that the head gasket blew massively between the 3&4 (back 2) cylinders. With it also pouring out the exhaust side between the head and block. But the really troubling thing is that the ser light is on, the check engine light is on, the car has a starting problem, and there are 2 connectors under the intake that aren't connected to anything. Shifts fine and seems to run fine. But the kid that owned it put a cone filter on the MAF and a tube straight on the turbo. Thus leaving the intake side of the PCV system just hanging there as well as some hose that comes off the boost controler. Oh yeah, and the MAF is just jammed into the tube going to the turbo. Not sealed with a silicone connector... Just wallowed out and jammed in there.

To elaborate on the starting problem. If the car hasn't been started for about an hour or so, it takes about 20 seconds of solid cranking to get it to start. After it's gotten warmed up, it seems to start very easily. I fear that the fuel pump(s) are going bad and I don't want low fuel pressure/volume to happen again. A weak fuel pump is what cost me my engine in my turbo thunderbird of which I haven't been able to find one locally for the last 8 years.

On a minor note, the A/C works but the pressure cycling switch is only giving the clutch 8.73 volts. If I jump it over at the connection, it gives the clutch a full 12.8 volts. I'm guessing that this is a low freon condition.

That's about all for now. I'll have photos and codes sometime tomorrow when I can catch the girl home with the car.

Khyren

 

The connectors under the intake mani probably one of the engine coolant sensors, that is why it might be taking for ever to start, and the knock sensor

Would like to see pics of the engine.....once you get the car back.

Wait fo rhte experts to get on....

 

+1 on the sensors. The rest, just put some pix on and I am sure the thing can be put back together right... doesn't sound too bad.

 

Ok, so I finally caught her home. Codes according to the way I found to get them on another site are: 2-2-4 and 2-1-4. Far fewer than I expected really. I went through the codes 3 times to make sure that was the only 2.

Now for the pictures:

The first one is of the difference in injector colors. The other 3 are just all the same shots of the plugs but with different angles and lighting.

 

After finding out that there's a second set of codes to get from the Fuel system, I got 1-2-3, 1-1-3, and 1-3-1. Which basically says the same thing that the ignition system said but with the lean/rich problem thrown in there too. Anyone have a pic showing were all the sensor locations or something of the sort?

Khyren

 

ECT sensor problem solved.