960 Tie Rod Ends and Ball Joints: Tools? Savvy?
Greetings 
One more question which the manual doesn't quite cover: Is there a tool/puller which works better than the "caveman special" pickle fork to pull the ball joints and tie rod ends on a '95 960?
I need a puller anyway, just would like to know what direction to shoot...
Any suggestions?
Thanks!

One more question which the manual doesn't quite cover: Is there a tool/puller which works better than the "caveman special" pickle fork to pull the ball joints and tie rod ends on a '95 960?
I need a puller anyway, just would like to know what direction to shoot...
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Pickle forks are the only way to do this.
A slightly higher-tech way to do this is to use a pneumatic hammer with the pickle fork.
I have a set that I picked up from Amazon that works fantastic, and is quite inexpensive.
Here is a link to them. I also give them five stars.
Dave Riedle
A slightly higher-tech way to do this is to use a pneumatic hammer with the pickle fork.
I have a set that I picked up from Amazon that works fantastic, and is quite inexpensive.
Here is a link to them. I also give them five stars.
Dave Riedle
Thanks, Dave, for connecting and sharing this. It looks to be a fine set indeed --
The only time I "forked" a job was on a classic Lincoln. Borrowed the neighbor's "Snap-On" tool and got to work. In the end, I totally ruined the parts; but everything separated OK.
So, after that costly interlude, I decided that
Being keen to this, I tried another approach; and did indeed pull things off this time with a standard two-jaw gear puller. Ball joints done, rod ends next...
HOWEVER, the Chilton subscriber service which I use through a local public library gave this assembly/torque spec for the BJ mounts on the '95:
This is simply wrong: These fasteners literally seize at less than 45 degrees!
To add a bit more confusion, Volvo seems to beat the pan about a 22 ft. lb. spec for the '94 BJ bolts (looks like an entirely different spindle); and provides no supplementary angle tightening data. However, even with the required Locktite Red in the mix, 22 ft. lbs. is a ridiculously low torque spec for a coarse Class 10.9 M12 which isn't bearing a huge load in tension! Perhaps the '94 was different in this aspect; and actual strut loading was passing through these bolts in earlier models (IDK)...
Therefore, I ask the question: Does anyone have an actual torque listing for the '95 to '97 spindles which differ somewhat from the widely-touted '94 service spec? All I have to go with here is the 22 ft. lb. value, or I must take recourse to the standard fallback torque specification for a Standard-Pitch Class 10.9 M12 (105 ft. lbs. or 142.8 Nm).
In sum, I'm now running a car all over the place with Locktite Red and the only Volvo spec (likely VERY wrong) which I can find...
Help???
Thanks again
The only time I "forked" a job was on a classic Lincoln. Borrowed the neighbor's "Snap-On" tool and got to work. In the end, I totally ruined the parts; but everything separated OK.
So, after that costly interlude, I decided that
- The approach was simply too barbaric for most practical use; or
- I was just too much of a yutz to handle the tool correctly.
Being keen to this, I tried another approach; and did indeed pull things off this time with a standard two-jaw gear puller. Ball joints done, rod ends next...
HOWEVER, the Chilton subscriber service which I use through a local public library gave this assembly/torque spec for the BJ mounts on the '95:
Use new bolts and apply sealing fluid to the threads. Check that the bolt heads sit flat on the ball joint. Tighten the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) PLUS angle tighten 90 degrees.
To add a bit more confusion, Volvo seems to beat the pan about a 22 ft. lb. spec for the '94 BJ bolts (looks like an entirely different spindle); and provides no supplementary angle tightening data. However, even with the required Locktite Red in the mix, 22 ft. lbs. is a ridiculously low torque spec for a coarse Class 10.9 M12 which isn't bearing a huge load in tension! Perhaps the '94 was different in this aspect; and actual strut loading was passing through these bolts in earlier models (IDK)...
Therefore, I ask the question: Does anyone have an actual torque listing for the '95 to '97 spindles which differ somewhat from the widely-touted '94 service spec? All I have to go with here is the 22 ft. lb. value, or I must take recourse to the standard fallback torque specification for a Standard-Pitch Class 10.9 M12 (105 ft. lbs. or 142.8 Nm).
In sum, I'm now running a car all over the place with Locktite Red and the only Volvo spec (likely VERY wrong) which I can find...
Help???
Thanks again
Last edited by Cubic_Curiosity; Sep 22, 2015 at 07:58 AM. Reason: Details, details . . .
Selfie:
After getting the same "90 degrees" verbiage from AllData and calling here, there, and everywhere, I finally got an answer:
THERE IS NO FULL TORQUE SPEC FOR THIS PART FROM VOLVO.
That "90 degrees" business is, in essence, 1/2 donkey for "tight as you dare."
Again, industry spec for this bolt is, as I understand it, 105 ft. lbs. maximum. So, we torqued a new set of full-length prime 10.9s to 75 with red threadlocker and split locks.
Calling this bit done
Onward --
After getting the same "90 degrees" verbiage from AllData and calling here, there, and everywhere, I finally got an answer:
THERE IS NO FULL TORQUE SPEC FOR THIS PART FROM VOLVO.
That "90 degrees" business is, in essence, 1/2 donkey for "tight as you dare."
Again, industry spec for this bolt is, as I understand it, 105 ft. lbs. maximum. So, we torqued a new set of full-length prime 10.9s to 75 with red threadlocker and split locks.
Calling this bit done

Onward --
Last edited by Cubic_Curiosity; Sep 23, 2015 at 08:39 PM.
The volvo manual gives the torque like that. I was able to get the 90 degrees with a 1m long bar on a socket.
I have kd tools #41690, the scissor looking press tool in this kit is what I used to free the ball stud.
I have kd tools #41690, the scissor looking press tool in this kit is what I used to free the ball stud.
Thanks again, folks.
To wrap up, I was ultimately able to pull the '95 960 tie rod end using a tool similar to . Indeed, VDonkey should have an item of this kind in his for similar purposes.
FWIW, there are countless incarnations just like this kit floating about here-and-there all around the web (just hit the search engines with "Front End Service Set" & see for yourself); and I was able to get hold of a cloned loaner set from a local Advance Auto Supply store as "Powerbuilt" #648626.
The items in this particular kit are a bit cheesy, but the included tie rod puller was sufficient for the task; and, @ $0 net cost, the price was spot-on for the job
Just be sure to squeeze past the backing plate and square things up as well as you can when using the tool...
Cheers!
To wrap up, I was ultimately able to pull the '95 960 tie rod end using a tool similar to . Indeed, VDonkey should have an item of this kind in his for similar purposes.
FWIW, there are countless incarnations just like this kit floating about here-and-there all around the web (just hit the search engines with "Front End Service Set" & see for yourself); and I was able to get hold of a cloned loaner set from a local Advance Auto Supply store as "Powerbuilt" #648626.
The items in this particular kit are a bit cheesy, but the included tie rod puller was sufficient for the task; and, @ $0 net cost, the price was spot-on for the job

Just be sure to squeeze past the backing plate and square things up as well as you can when using the tool...
Cheers!
One of these days I'll have to tackle these items on my 97 V90...just did sway bar links (Meyle HD) which got rid of 90% of the front end clunks and rattles, but it's a 200,000 mile car and other things are getting tired too...
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