With OBDi diagnostics, you can reset the code your self using the DTC reader under the hood on the driverside fender.

As to be able to turn the cams, yes you can turn the cams without a timing belt, only if the crankshaft is on it's timing mark. So try to get the crank to line up and then you will be able to spin those cams to where they should be. The marks on the cams are sometimes hard to find.

You are incredibly lucky on finding the pulley problem before it wrecked the valves in the head.

DanR '94 964 356,000 miles (122,000 on the new engine)

 

how do I know it *didn't* bend valves?

Also, cyl1 should be tdc at marks, right?

other than the idler pulley losing it's bearings, the tensioner pulley is roaring, but I think the dampener is ok - how can I tell?

And *should* I really change the water pump while I'm in there? I'm not so good with plumbing, but it's there, but it looks super clean, no leaks at all... I'd rather leave it, but if I *SHOULD* do it, then I will.

 

WOW - back to OT for a second (lol) could this pulley mess have anything to do with the oil leaking in my intake? could my timing have been off (jumped a cog?) or something needing power wasn't functioning because of lack of drive power?

And the more I get down there, the more mess I see (under the iac all the way to the steering rack) - I can't tell if some of it is from the block, though, and I don't know if I have a head gasket issue in addition to the intake issue (but, still, I don't notice any oil loss, but I need a proper dipstick... Never a puddle in my driveway, though, I know that much!)

 

Why are you trying to turn the cams? You should have lined them up before you pulled that belt and left them alone.

As for the tensioner, not the roller but the tensioner, if that thing leaks a little when you compress the tip back in, it's bad and need to be replaced. That tensioner keeps the proper amount of tension on the tensioner roller to keep the belt as tight as it needs to be. As the blet wears and streatches a little, it will adjust for that.

Do NOT mess with the water pump if it is NOT leaking.

If the tensioner roller spins pretty freely, replace it as well. A good tensioner roller and/or idler will spin but not freewheel. You want a smooth easy roll but not a roar or spin freely. If you smack it with your hand to make it spin, it should stop real fast. If it keeps spinning it is likely out of greese and may loose it bearings soon.

Try not to mess with those cams unless you HAVE to for some reason. If you get the timing off and hit the key to crank, that could be the end of driving that car. When you have everything back together, you will need to turn the crank two full revolutions. If you have bent valves or something messed up with the timing, it will not turn properly.

All that being said, I thought my instructions were pretty complete, read the entire way through them and you should understand what's going on.

 

Thank you, rspi - I read your instructions at least 3 times through so far, and found them EXTREMELY useful (you left out that the valve cover needs to be removed to remove the cam shroud, but maybe the 97 is not like that)

I will leave the water pump alone.

I'm getting a full timing kit with the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley, as it is it sounds like a skateboard wheel.

As far as the cams, I could not remove the belt with the idler pulley yanked up (from lack of bearings) it was caught on something - I think it happened when the serpentine tensioner snapped

SO I cut the belt. I know. But I did it.

Anyway, I lined up the crank mark (little dot? must have been tough to get the shot here ) but the cam doesn't turn all the way - I can get it lined up, but I don't know which way to turn it to line the marks (played with the intake one, really - the exhaust cam moves, but I didn't want to break anything)

I figured on removing the 1st plug and checking the positioning inside - I'm assuming there is 0 clearance?

I know a master tech that can give me an hour or so next week if I need it, or worst case I'll get it towed to the dealer and pay half of the R&R charge (I already called to check, and since I did the removal, they would only charge for the installation)

 

When the crank is on it's mark, there will be no cylinders at TDC, that is the design. Crank on its mark allows for the cams to be rotated without interference. So if you are sure your crank is on the correct mark and you cannot rotate any of the cams, then you do have bent valves, but I must of missed something in this thread, because I was thinking the engine was running but making noise? Am I not correct?

The cams may need a wrench to turn, they may not turn easily by hand.

DanR

 

So they do move, they're just not in the mood to do so :-) The cams should be able to turn and turn if I wanted then?

QUESTION: when the cams are on their marks, should the valves be open or closed? (I mean, if the cams are on their marks, can I safely turn the crank?)

 

With the crank on it's mark, the position of the pistons will be anywhere but at TDC, I believe two cylinders may be an inch below the deck.

With the cams on their marks, you will not be able to rotate the crank because some valves will be open or in some stage of being open.

If you can set the crank where it should be and then are able to move the cams, then it may be safe to say the valves are fine and you dodged a bullet. Though, turning the cams may take some leverage.

DanR

 

Both gears should move by hand, not easily though. Crank pulley is harder. It goes without saying that marks should all align after 2 full revolutions. Half or even quarter tooth off, and the car will miss.

 

What size nut is on the crank? Someone asked in another thread. I also want to know because I'm trying to turn the crank in the new S70 I picked up and it's near impossible.

 

IIRC 850's size is 30 mm.

 

pipe wrench for the crank (depending on the shape of yours) and I don't even have a nut on the center of my cams - just like a 5 lug wheel w/o center hub (looks like a rivet) I'm starting to think that I might take it to the dealer and pay them 150 to install the new timing kit (or I'll put on the pulleys and such, and get them to just put on the belts and tensioners )

Better to get half way through a job and quit than to ignore a noise and trash a motor, eh??

 

Wow I can't believe it took this long to get parts in! (from japan, iirc)

Most of it seems good - timing marks are lined up and everything - but when all marks are lined up, the belt isn't tight between the crank and the intake cam (about half a tooth off)

ALSO - I have my cams at their marks, and I can turn the crank so cyl 1 is TDC, and I can turn it all the way to the bottom, but it's stuck in that half cycle - I can't cycle all the cylinders - I can feel contact inside, but I have no idea where - again it WAS RUNNING when disassembled.

Do I need to open it up to watch the lobes? How can I diagnose this???

 

What parts were those?


You should thread the belt, counter-clockwise, seat it at the crank first, then thru the Idler and onto the Intake Cam, then Exhaust cam, then Water Pump and so on. The only belt-slack should be around the tensioner.

Belt's teeth should fit perfectly around the Cams this way.


If the belt is slacked at Cam, when you rotate the crank, things will no longer align.

You say "I can turn the crank so cyl 1 is TDC, and I can turn it all the way to the bottom". I don't know what you are saying but I have a feeling this may have gone awry for you. Is this with the new belt, which is off at the Intake Cam? I am confused...

You need to determine first if you screwed the pooch....

 

Timing kit (belt, idler and tensioner pulleys), serpentine belt, and serpentine tensioner


This is exactly what I did, but that second step there, threading around the idler to the intake cam, the belt doesn't seat perfectly with no slack if the crank and intake cam are on their marks


This is with no belt, just by hand with the 1st plug removed and watching the piston - there is some contact with one of the pistons - I should be able to rotate the crank while the cams are at their marks, no? Or does the belt need to be on first? Either way, I'm still stuck at the part where the marks are perfect and the teeth are not... I can take a short video for YouTube tomorrow if it would help... I'll do that if I don't figure it out by then.

 

Something is off.

A- Crank and cams are rotated together, i.e. by having the belt on them -- You start the job by turning the crank until the 3 sets of signs (Crank and Cam Gears) are aligned to their respective notches.

B- Then you take off the old belt and put in the new one, without moving anything around, ideally.

If you tried to rotate the crank without the belt, then you lost the alignment.

Another thing to keep in mind -- it takes 2 Crank revolutions for 1 Cam revolution.

 

When I took the serpentine tensioner off (it snapped in the process), the timing idler tensioner lost its bearings and the belt got stuck so I had to cut it off... couldn't turn it with the belt on, and then (wasn't me, don't ask how) the cams got moved.

I am trying to get everything back to neutral for the re-installation.

With this in mind - should the crank be able to turn freely without moving the cams? or do I need the belt on to not make contact inside?

(!! Are the marks on the cams the "M"s or the | marks? they're both marks, I've been using the | things. Just making sure I'm not the failed component here)

 

Answer is no, it won't. When turned by hand, this is an interference engine and pistons will hit the valves and nothing will move.


With or without the belt on, you will have interference if things are not aligned. ALign first, then install belt, then rotate crank twice / cams once to verify.


Everything should be aligned based on the slots / notches.

Theoretically, you can use the "rope trip", which means, like you did, take off the spark plug at Cylinder 1, put a rope in there to make sure that Cyl # 1 is at the TDC.

This should align with the 2 cams aligned - slots to notches.

Big question is -- how do you turn the crank now that you are stuck. If you remember which way you turned, you can try to reverse the crank. Better options are to post this on Turbobricks, where there are some very knowledgeable and Volvo technicians, before you take it to the Volvo shop.

 

Got some advice, will report back after I get another set of hands in there with mine.

 

Say, if I'm off by a tooth on one or both cams, how much damage can/will that do? (if I can take a full revolution after the belt is on, of course)