Afternoon,

I noticed that my wife's car (1995 850 GLE, sedan, non-turbo, automatic) has this clicking sound (when she makes a turn), which is the cv boot has cracked and I have to replace the axel on the passenger side.

Someone told me that the axel on the passenger axel side is longer than the driver axel side. I checked around with some used parts store and they tell me its all the same. Can anyone confirm this to me? Or whats the difference between the passenger and driver axel for the 1995 850 Volvo?

Thanks

 

The Axle on the passenger side is definately much bigger then the one on driver side because it comes with a extender shaft which starts from the transmission and goes all the way behind the engine to the end of the engine and is mounted with a bearing onto the engine block with 2 12mm bolts. and after that is a small (probably the saem size as driver side shaft) shaft that takes the power to the wheel.
But the axle's are definately very different from each other as a assembly.

I would still give it a try by replacing the CV Boot(s) and adding fresh grease to the existing shaft.

 

Whilst i agree with bestharry from the cost point of view, from the time point of view you're better off just changing the CV joint especially if it's already clicking on full lock.

I've never had to do this on a volvo, but on my Citroen ZX the CV bootsplitit took half a day toreplace the boot and grease. When the same joint started clicking a month later (it was only split a week at the most) we had to change the driveshaft (Can't get citroen CVs separately) which took another half a day.

It's just as much work to change the boot in terms of dismatlement as it is to change the shaft or CV. With the ZX it had a joint in the middle because it was the long side so we only change half of the shaft but that was still two new CVs.

I'd bite the bullet and do the CV.

 

axle replacement from Volvo
(i couldn't get the PDF to load up)

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/ser...afts-Front.pdf


AXLE SHAFTS - FRONT

1995 Volvo 850
DRIVE AXLES

Volvo - Axle Shafts - FWD
850

DESCRIPTION & OPERATION
Volvo 850 utilizes a transversely mounted 5-cylinder engine
with a specially designed automatic or manual transmission. To
eliminate torque steer, vehicle is equipped with equal length outboard
drive shafts.

TROUBLE SHOOTING
Refer to TROUBLE SHOOTING - BASIC PROCEDURES article in the
GENERAL TROUBLE SHOOTING section.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Removal
1) Raise and support front of vehicle. Remove front wheels.
Remove ABS sensor from steering member, but leave electrical connector
connected. Loosen brake line bracket and ABS wiring. Unhook bracket
and let it hang free. Remove split pin from hub center nut. Hold hub
and remove drive shaft center nut.
2) Remove link arm from anti-roll bar. Remove nuts securing
suspension arm to ball joint. Remove suspension arm from ball joint.
If removing right drive shaft, remove splash guard from under engine.
Twist and remove MacPherson strut. Tap on drive shaft end with plastic
hammer and remove drive shaft from hub. Clean hub-drive shaft splines
of metal glue.
3) On right drive shaft, remove bearing cap from drive shaft
support bearing. Using care to avoid damage to drive shaft seal and
boot, remove drive shaft from gearbox. On left drive shaft, use Lever
(999 5462) to apply leverage between gearbox and inside of drive
shaft. Using care to avoid damage to drive shaft seal and boot, remove
drive shaft from gearbox.
Disassembly
1) Remove clips from outer boot. Remove outer boot from outer
CV joint. Wipe grease from outer CV joint. Clamp drive shaft in vise
with gap in circlip at top. Open circlip to free it from groove.
Insert an 8 mm diameter drift between circlip lugs. Tap inner race a
few times along shaft to hold circlip open. Use a brass drift and tap
CV joint off shaft.
NOTE: To avoid damaging cage or outer race, tap inner race only.
2) Remove clips from inboard boot and slide both boots off
shaft. Ensure grease inside joints is not contaminated by water or
dirt. For reassembly reference, scribe positions of outer race, cage,
and inner race in CV joint.
3) For reassembly reference, mark location where ***** will
first be removed. Tilt inner race and cage and remove ***** one at a
time, moving in a clockwise direction. Put ***** in order so they can
be installed in original location. Rotate inner race 90 degrees
relative to cage. Remove inner race. Remove circlip from inner race.
4) Remove clips from inner boot. Slide boot off inner
universal joint. On manual transmission vehicles, use a rag and remove
grease from inboard universal joint. Mount drive shaft in a vise, with
gap in circlip facing upward. Open circlip to free it from groove and
insert an 8 mm drift between circlip lugs. Tap inner race a few times
along shaft to hold circlip open. Using a brass drift, tap inner
universal joint off shaft.
5) On automatic transmission vehicles, mark position of drive
shaft relative to joint housing. Pry up tabs on housing and remove
spider from housing. On all vehicles, if support bearing requires
replacement, place unit in a press and press circlip and support
bearing off shaft.
Reassembly
1) Thoroughly clean all CV joint parts. On manual
transmission vehicles, clean inner universal joint in place as it
cannot be disassembled. On automatic transmission vehicles, spider can
be left on end of shaft. On all vehicles, if any part shows signs of
cracking or scoring, entire CV joint assembly must be replaced.
NOTE: Slight scoring or pitting in races is acceptable.
2) Press on new support bearing and circlip. Ensure support
bearing is installed against the stop. On manual transmission
vehicles, Install new circlip in inner universal joint. Pack joint
with grease. Ensure boot is okay. If boot is not okay, go to next
step.
3) For manual transmission vehicles, go to step 4). For
automatic transmission vehicles, mark spider in relation to drive
shaft mark. Remove circlip. Press spider off shaft. Remove boot from
shaft. Install new boot on shaft. Line up spider with mark made
previously, ensuring bevelled side of spider goes in first. Ensure
drive shaft is kept straight when applying pressure to spider with
press. Install new circlip. Lubricate needle bearings on spider using
thin lubricating oil. Pack bearing housing with grease.
4) For manual transmission vehicles, mount outboard drive
shaft in a vise, ensuring inner race is square inside joint. Tap shaft
into joint, ensuring circlip is properly seated in groove. Pack
remaining grease into joint, using care not to get any grease on part
of boot that makes contact with joint. Clean off all excess grease.
Slide boot over joint, ensuring it is correctly positioned on shaft.
Install new circlip on boot.
5) For all vehicles, install new circlip in inner race and
place race inside cage. Line up scored marks and put first ball in
position. Turn inner race and cage. Put ***** back in their original
position, one at a time.
6) Thoroughly lubricate joint. Apply grease to back of joint
through opening for shaft in inner race. If joint has not been
dismantled, remove old circlip and replace. Mount shaft in vise and
slide new boot onto shaft. Install CV joint on shaft, ensuring inner
race is square inside joint. Use a plastic hammer and tap joint onto
shaft. Ensure circlip sits correctly in its groove.
7) Apply remaining grease to inner race and cage. Use care to
not get any grease on part of boot that comes in contact with joints.
Wipe off excess grease with mineral spirits. Slide boot over joints,
ensuring they are correctly positioned on shaft. Install new circlip
on boot.


Installation

1) For right drive shaft installation, install bearing cap
and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 N.m). For left drive shaft
installation, ensure ABS sensor wheel on drive shaft is free of dirt.
Push drive shaft in so it engages with differential. Ensure drive
shaft circlip snaps into place. See Fig. 1. Use care not to damage
gearbox seals or bellows.
Fig. 1: Installing Left Drive Shaft
Courtesy of Volvo Cars of North America
2) Apply Metal Glue (1161370-0) to drive shaft splines. Use a
socket wrench to hold suspension arm down. Twist and remove MacPherson
strut and insert drive shaft into hub. Oil new drive shaft center nut
threads and flange. Hand tighten new drive shaft center nut. Using new
nuts, install suspension arm to ball joint.
NOTE: Ensure ball joint and suspension arm faces are clean and
free of grease.
3) Tighten nuts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 N.m), plus an additional
120 degrees. Apply rust proofing to area between ball joint,
suspension arm, and nuts. Using new nuts, install suspension arm to
anti-roll bar. Tighten nuts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 N.m). Tighten center
nut to 80 ft. lbs (120 N.m), plus an additional 120 degrees. Lock
drive shaft center nut by using a chisel and tapping nut locking
flange into drive shaft slot.
4) Install brake line bracket and ABS cable, ensuring ABS
sensor is perfectly clean. Tighten ABS sensor to 7 ft. lbs. (10 N.m).
Ensure brake disc and pad surfaces are clean. Lubricate hub center
locating pin in front of pad with Rust Proofing Agent (1161038-3).
Install, but do not tighten, lug nuts. Tighten lug nuts in opposite
pairs to 81 ft. lbs. (110 N.m).


TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
ABS Sensor ........................................ 7 (10)
Bearing Cap ...................................... 18 (25)
Lug Nuts ........................................ 81 (110)
Suspension Arm Nuts .......................... (1) 13 (18)
Suspension Arm To Anti-Roll Bar .................. 37 (50)
Suspension Arm To Anti-Roll Bar Center Nut .. (1) 80 (120)
(1) - Tighten an additional 120 degrees.



good luck!