1997 850 regular maintenance
#1
1997 850 regular maintenance
I got my first VOLVO about 6 months ago. It is a 1997 non-turbo 850 and has 120,000 miles on it.
I don't have the maintenance records from the previous owner. It does not have a sticker on the engine, so I am assuming it has the original timing belt, so I am going to go ahead and change it now.
Since I am going to park it to do some maintenance, I decided to replace the complete PCV system, water pump, serpentine belt, thermostat, all filters, and do a full tune up. The front end is creaking, so I am going to replace both struts and all hardware to include the front sway bars.
Is there anything else you would recommend I look at or swap out while I have it opened up?
thanks,
Gary
I don't have the maintenance records from the previous owner. It does not have a sticker on the engine, so I am assuming it has the original timing belt, so I am going to go ahead and change it now.
Since I am going to park it to do some maintenance, I decided to replace the complete PCV system, water pump, serpentine belt, thermostat, all filters, and do a full tune up. The front end is creaking, so I am going to replace both struts and all hardware to include the front sway bars.
Is there anything else you would recommend I look at or swap out while I have it opened up?
thanks,
Gary
Last edited by Gary Bass; 01-20-2015 at 12:57 PM.
#2
850 maintenance
When you do the struts make sure you use OEM/ volvo original strut mounts (the rubber bushing part that sits atop the spring) - I've had non oems go after 50K miles... Also inspect the CV joint boots. If you decide you need to replace sway bar bushings, I'm a big fan of adding the IPD heavy duty sway bars (with matching HD end links) for the 850 - totally changed the feel of my 850T wagon! I also tried Bilsteins but was not impressed - had one break its seat at 100K miles and went back to the OEM Boge/Sachs as they are a good match for the car.
Check your engine motor mounts - including the top bushing (first to go usually)
If your car doesn't have the cabin air filter kit (up top under the hood), add one and put a cabin air filter in (not sure what year this became standard but I had to add one to my 95.
Check the drain vents for the AC evaporator to make sure they are clear and draining. You don't want water to accumulate from running the AC - it will eventually corrode the evaporator - and that's a $1500 repair.
lube up the throttle cable and the hood release latches and cables... (another PITA repair if your hood release cable goes)
I'd say the rest is standard operating procedure - tune up items etc, and fix stuff as its needed. One more comment - if you decide to do the brakes make sure you use shims/grease or they will squeak...
Check your engine motor mounts - including the top bushing (first to go usually)
If your car doesn't have the cabin air filter kit (up top under the hood), add one and put a cabin air filter in (not sure what year this became standard but I had to add one to my 95.
Check the drain vents for the AC evaporator to make sure they are clear and draining. You don't want water to accumulate from running the AC - it will eventually corrode the evaporator - and that's a $1500 repair.
lube up the throttle cable and the hood release latches and cables... (another PITA repair if your hood release cable goes)
I'd say the rest is standard operating procedure - tune up items etc, and fix stuff as its needed. One more comment - if you decide to do the brakes make sure you use shims/grease or they will squeak...
#3
Thanks, that is good info. I did some reading already, so I did order the IPD HD links. I ordered the cabin air filter, assuming it was installed, I guess I better check to see if it has the box.
I'm going to clean the MAF and lube all those cables that you recommended. Thanks for all the great tips.
I'm going to clean the MAF and lube all those cables that you recommended. Thanks for all the great tips.
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