so, my car was randomly dying before. i cleaned out the MAF real good, have not had an issue until today.

as i was going to my storage bin to add a few things, she died on the highway. managed to get her started immediatly, but she died as soon as i let off the gas. so, i started her, rev'd her to about 1.5k, held the idle there and slid her into drive. managed to get home with no issues unless i let off the gas.

when i got in, she didnt die but she was chugging bad and black smoke was puffing out. not a lot of smoke, but a whisp.

anywho, im going to pull the codes now, will report back once i know whats up. i checked the codes last time when i cleaned the MAF, the only thing that came up was 2-4-0 , low EGR flow.

 

ok. pulled the codes, 1-2-1 comes up, as well as 2-4-1. i made a mistake in my OP and listed 2-4-0 :P

 

1-2-1 ........................... MAF Sensor Signal Absent Or Faulty
2-4-1 ........................................... EGR Flow Incorrect

Unplug the MAF, see if it then will idle.

 

it does, but after like 30 seconds it started idling rough. im taking the TB off and am gonna try and clean the EGR. if i cant, my mechanic said to come by at 10am tomorrow

 

ok. pretty sure the MAF is toast. i got her started, she idled fine for a few seconds then went back to chugging. this was after i cleaned the MAF a second time.

as soon as i unplugged the MAF, her idle went back up to 900 and fluxuated a little, but she did not stall and seemed to be running fine.

can i run her like this for maybe 10 miles tops? my mechanic isnt that far and i really dont want to pay 50$ for a tow truck to his shop.

 

Apparently, if it runs well enough...
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...=14482&start=0

 

good information. im going to go to the grocery store down the road and see how she drives w/o the MAF hooked up. its about 2 miles round trip so no big worries there.

 

alright.

had the EGR cleaned today (yay it works fine). cleaned out that hole on the intake manifold. cleaned off the butterfly valve on the throttle body also.

im still getting a CEL for low EGR flow. everything was cleaned, even the PVC (didnt need it but we did anyways). im still throwing a MAF code also but thats due to running with no MAF.

replacement (bosch) maf ordered from napa today, 140$ and itll be there in a few hours.

also replaced the spark plugs since i figured they would be dirty (they were).

i simply cannot get the 2-4-1 code to clear in port a-6. i did manage to clear it once about 2 months ago but i cannot repeat that success.

any pointers?

 

alright. good thing is the low EGR code is now gone (2-4-1), however the car is stuck in limp mode (wont go above 3k rpm).

 

ok, so i plugged in the MAF i got from napa. its a reman bosch. turns out its the MAF that they sold me thats not letting me go past 3k at WOT. i can go past 3k if i barely give it gas, but as soon as i put, say 50% throttle down, it bogs down bad.

im gonna go back tomorrow and get a new one if they have it, or probably just order from FCP.

is there something else i can check? im getting no other CEL codes, just 1-2-1 (bad maf/signal)...

 

Below from '95 850 manual; sorry but they refer to a MEASURING UNIT which appears to be volvo specific break-out-box; don't have schematic for it.

1-2-1 (MAF Signal Absent Or Faulty)
1) Connect measuring unit to fuel injection ECU. See
MEASURING UNIT under SELF-DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM. To check Mass Airflow
(MAF) sensor signal, turn ignition on. Connect voltmeter between
measuring unit terminals No. 13 and 20. About 2.7 volts should be
present. Start engine. About 3.5 volts should be present at idle with
engine hot. Turn engine off. If voltages are okay, go to step 3) and
check MAF sensor ground circuit. If voltages are not okay, go to next
step.
2) Turn ignition on. Connect voltmeter between MAF sensor
connector terminal No. 4 and ground. See Fig. 5. Voltage should be
about 2.7 volts. Start engine. Voltage should be about 3.5 volts
during idle with engine hot. If voltages are correct, check voltage
supply for an open or short circuit. If voltages are incorrect, go to
next step and check MAF sensor ground circuit.
3) Turn ignition off. Connect ohmmeter between MAF connector
terminal No. 2 and ground, then between connector terminal No. 1 and
ground. See Fig. 5. Ohmmeter should indicate about zero ohms in both
instances. If reading is okay, go to step 5). If reading is incorrect,
go to next step.
4) Ensure ignition is off. Connect ohmmeter between measuring
unit terminals No. 20 and 8, then between terminals No. 20 and 12.
Ohmmeter should indicate about zero ohms in both instances. If reading
is incorrect, repeat test using new fuel injection ECU. If reading is
correct, go to next step and check MAF sensor voltage supply.
5) Turn ignition on. Connect voltmeter between ground and MAF
sensor connector terminal No. 3. See Fig. 5. Voltmeter should indicate
battery voltage. If voltage is not present, check for an open or short
circuit in voltage supply. If voltage is present, repeat test using
new MAF sensor.

 

try the new MAF if that doesn't work...you may have a bad ECU. make sure you clear codes after you put on your new parts a lot of times ECU will not clear by itself...if you clear and they come back either bad part or bad ECU. also make sure you have a good connection on your MAF and it is not corroded etc..good luck...

 

yep yep! cleared codes before i put new MAF in, thats when it started not going over 3k rpm at WOT.

unplugged the maf, she started up, ran normally, died a few times, but started right back up.

i just need to know WHAT is failing so i can replace it! im glad my mechanic was able to clear the 2-4-1 code i was getting

also, i cleaned the electronic connector part with some stuff i bought specifically for cleaning electronic connector parts. was nice and shiney, i let it dry for about 30 mins in the heat before i reconnected it and started her up.

im hoping the ebay guy im going through ships as fast as his feedback says he does. its an OEM part, bosch, part # matches the old maf part #s exactly. his auction also lists my engine as being compatible with it

 

well, reason that sensor wont work is THEY SOLD ME THE WRONG SENSOR.

they sold me the one for a 2.3L motor, not a 2.4L motor.

 

woot! oh happy day!

22.60 later, i purchased a junkyard MAF w/ 1 year warranty (they labeled it as a MISC SENSOR) that works like a charm! bosch OEM, looks to be in really good shape, no unusual marks or anything

 

that's funny cause that's what I was thinking when you mentioned it wouldn't go passed 3000 rpms...i remember I Plugged an 007 into a 016 set up and it acted similar. That's AWESOME I am very happy for you bro.

 

yes, junkyard pull FTW. there were *2* t5 wagons there! i was contemplating raiding those, as i want to do a t5 swap into my 850 eventually. they looked pretty new also, both had complete engines and the turbos were still there surprisingly!

 

WOW!! God is speaking to you my friend do not let them get away go raid!! Very rare to see 1 let 2 T5's....We rarely get 850's in the wrecking yards here in Seattle at least the pull it yourself yards....but I am a 240 guy myself

 

i honestly would, but im inbetween moves right now and dont have anywhere to store the parts. both had some sweet volvo rims on them i want, but i dont know which are compatible with my car ><

 

Yep, doing that will cause those sort of frustrating problems - and also the other way around too.

Glad to hear she's up and running again to your satisfaction.