Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Blower problem

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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 05:46 PM
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Default Blower problem

I have a 1993 850 glt. It has a ecc.Since I have owned the car neither the heat or cold air work, I replaced the blower motor but still nothing. There is moderate heat when I drive the car but think that is just the outside air rushing in.

The unit blinks both orange lights, so i presume it is ok. Does that mean it is the resistor that needs to be replaced?

I have read a few threads but not getting the answer I need. It is getting cold here and I am freezing my butt off.

Thanks for any help or advice.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 07:44 PM
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the orange blinking lights means there are codes in the computer. get the codes and this may narrow down the problem for you.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 07:46 PM
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On the same note, my blower quit today. (raining like hell). Now If I move the fan switch very slowly I can hear a click where it should be turning on, and once in a while I can hear the fan trying to start but it then stops. Should I be looking at the resistor or the blower motor. Both are about 100.00, so Id like to get it right the first time.

Thanks in advance
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Chebucto
On the same note, my blower quit today. (raining like hell). Now If I move the fan switch very slowly I can hear a click where it should be turning on, and once in a while I can hear the fan trying to start but it then stops. Should I be looking at the resistor or the blower motor. Both are about 100.00, so Id like to get it right the first time.

Thanks in advance

Mine does the same clicking when it should turn on. The motor doesn't make any attempt at starting. I replaced the blower motor with a used one and still nothing so my next move is buying a resistor.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 08:47 PM
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I know where the motor is, but where is the resistor located?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 08:52 PM
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It is located in the climate box to the left of the blower motor. There is a black square looking thing held in with 1 screw that is it.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 09:05 PM
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Got it, thanks, so Tech.....do you think I might be looking at the Blower or the resistor? like I said, It started acting up about a month ago, sometimes when I started the car, the blower would not start or turn its self off while driving. I restart the car and it would work. Now today (under heavy usage due to alot of rain) it just turn itself off and did not come back no matter what I did. Like I said in my upper post, I can hear a slight click as I move the fan switch back and forth slowly. and sometime I can hear the fan trying to start up very slowly and then fail. Since both items are expensive, Id like to get it right the first time.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 09:11 PM
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I got a bunch of b1 codes

1-3-5
3-2-2
3-2-5
4-1-1
4-1-4

I know I can pick up a used resistor for around $30 but don't really want to waste my cash if it has more problems than just the resistor.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 09:18 PM
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1-3-5 No signal from engine coolant temp sensor
3-2-2 Passenger side damper motor active too long
3-2-5 Recirculation damper motor active too long
4-1-1 Blower fan seized or drawing excessive current
4-1-4 Drivers side interior temp sensor inlet fan seized
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Chebucto
1-3-5 No signal from engine coolant temp sensor
3-2-2 Passenger side damper motor active too long
3-2-5 Recirculation damper motor active too long
4-1-1 Blower fan seized or drawing excessive current
4-1-4 Drivers side interior temp sensor inlet fan seized
Thanks. where did you find the code results. Been searching online and can't find them.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Chebucto
Got it, thanks, so Tech.....do you think I might be looking at the Blower or the resistor? like I said, It started acting up about a month ago, sometimes when I started the car, the blower would not start or turn its self off while driving. I restart the car and it would work. Now today (under heavy usage due to alot of rain) it just turn itself off and did not come back no matter what I did. Like I said in my upper post, I can hear a slight click as I move the fan switch back and forth slowly. and sometime I can hear the fan trying to start up very slowly and then fail. Since both items are expensive, Id like to get it right the first time.

Thanks in advance.
I would replace both. Alot of people do not agree but when the motor pulls excessive draw it damages the resistor. That's why I reccomend both.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 10:01 PM
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http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/volvo_wo...techdocs.shtml


Check third one on the list.....
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 10:02 PM
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Thanks Tech, looks like its gonna be cold for about a week till payday.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 05:33 PM
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Still not got a replacement resistor as I am not sure if that is all I need.

1-3-5 No signal from engine coolant temp sensor
3-2-2 Passenger side damper motor active too long
3-2-5 Recirculation damper motor active too long
4-1-1 Blower fan seized or drawing excessive current
4-1-4 Drivers side interior temp sensor inlet fan seized

I am not sure if these codes are the effect of a bad resistor. Really need some help with this as it was 4 degrees F today and had to get a ride from someone who has heat in their car.

Thanks
 
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 07:58 PM
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Default Blower powerstage repair

For information on rebuilding your blower power stage see the posts of Jean-Phillipe Gauthier 24 & 30 of July and 23 & 24 of August 2007 on brickboard.com. Appears to be quite inexpensive if you can get the proper transistor. I have not had to try it myself. If you try please post your experience. Will
 
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