Hello to all,


Last weekend, I followed the directions carefully and did a complete timing belt and component change on my Volvo 960. It was tedious and required attention, but was not difficult. And the 2.9 purrs like a kitten!


Saturday and Sunday of this past week, I attacked the 850 with MT.


What a difference!


Working from the side of the vehicle and sitting on the ground was not an issue, but ACCESS sure is! I got everything out including the older timing belt which actually doesn't look too bad.


I managed to get all the items out EXCEPT the timing belt roller. Even with the flap folded up on the side of the fender, it's difficult or nigh impossible to engage the T-45 screw. I bought the shorter T-45 recommended for the 960 but it was still too long to install on the Torx drive.


I went out and bought a set of long and short angle Torx drives, similar to Allen wrenches in shape and found a T45 that engages. I was unable to turn it, it slipped out once.


I don't want to distort the Torx and am seriously considering using the hammer drill to bore a 1-1/2" access hole in the side of the bulkhead.


The 960 TB is a piece of cake compared to this one.


Is the timing belt roller durable enough that I should just skip it? Or should I bore a hole and do the replacement? I have added a poll to help me decide.


Is there another tool to use? I invest in Volvo tools for the long haul.


All suggestions welcome. I need some way to keep forward tension on the Torx drive, to keep it inside the fastener as I attempt to break it loose.


Thanks!

 

Sorry to hear about your stuck bolt but I don't think this require a poll - its a no brainer to replace the idler and tensioner when doing the timing belt. More often than not, its a failed idler or tensioner that takes out the belt versus the belt wearing out and failing. Did you try to soak the bolt with PB Blaster? I believe the T45 is the bolt holding on the tensioner - the idler should have two 10 or 12 MM bolts. Its not supposed to be locked down hard and you should be able to access it from the top with a 3/8 ratchet and a T45 bit...

 

Agree that the idler and tensioner should be changed to baseline the vehicle or if you don't know the age of the parts, better to replace them. The 960 idler roller is a breeze to remove. The 850 not so much. Others have told me and I have read on other forums, that if the roller is not leaking and grease and rolls without dragging or squeaking, it may be ok. This was the case on the 960, but I replaced it for baseline reasons and to have emergency parts to use/loan.


I now have bought a 1/2" driver serpentine belt wrench which gives far more room to place the T45 drive in the screw and hold it under tension to remove the unit.


If this doesn't work, I will bore a hole using excellent professional tools loaned to me, to make access holes.


I also plan to do another couple of personal mods to make other advanced service on the 850 easier. I have to replace struts and other suspension items and the oil cooler lines.


After I do these mods, there will be photos to share!


Thanks for input, keep it coming please!


I also have an idea for an emergency auxiliary hood opening lever

 

I'm putting my new thread here because the MF forum software won't let me put it where it's supposed to go and I'm tired of running in circles.


I purchased a 96 Volvo 850 NA with an MT which I discoveredtoday, was a later addition! To baseline, I had a car with multiple CELcomplaints and other issues too. To start I replaced all the front components:timing belt, timing roller, timing belt tensioner and hydraulic cylinder, aswell as serp belt. The coolant pump didn't leak so I left it alone, even thoughI have a spare, new one.


I called this a dog's breakfast which is what Canadians callsomething that is all hosed up. I ended up taking a giant bite out of a toastedshizz sandwich when doing this car: multiple cross-threaded fasteners, somebroken, not correct etc etc etc. Super tight fasteners glued with God knowswhat.


After the first day, it was all off.


Second day, all the thread holes were cleaned andrepaired/retapped


Third day, all bolts carefully repaired, engine frontcleaned, covers cleaned and arranged


Fourth day, all back together. And it runs, does not soundhalf bad.


Still have other items to repair or to baseline, but I figgerit can be done. Lessons learned:


1. On the 850, use only 1/4" drive sockets, breakerbars and ratchets. Have short and deep well sockets to hold fasteners becausethey don't make extensions that short. You need very little else-- a couple ofTorx screwdrivers from the Volvo tool kit and a pair of pliers.


2. Buy the Harbor Freight serpentine belt kit the cheap oneand it can install the T-45 in the timing belt tensioner assembly. However the old one was so cammed out anddistorted that I took the high road¨-- I bored a 50 mm hole in the side of theouter fender as an access hole to remove the Torx by sheer force directly headon. Under normal circumstances, I betthat the serp bar with something behind it could do the job. Others have saidso and it did a great job installing the new one.


3. I also removed (to repair) the right side ABS plasticfender housing, which lacked most rivets. They will probably be replaced by mmx 20 mm plastic screws. Plus I am makinga new hook to hold the portion of the flap that is folded for access to thelower engine front. Will make a plate to cover the hole bored.


Some other minor plastic pieces are missing on the 850engine compartment but it will get cleaned and repaired as time goes on.


Remaining on this car:


Replace all brake hoses and purge system
Check out rear brake tho it seems ok
Continue flush and refill of cooling system
Check out gearbox and replace fluid for baseline
Change oil and filter
Change fuel filter

I have one other 850 turbo to do, plus some EGR work on the 960, just asbaseline. Plus the 960 seems to have a small oil leak. Any info on possiblesources for the 960 would be welcome.





I will say this: The 960- timing and serp belts are easierthan the 850-- it's all about space

 

Common issue is that the lower front mount is bad, causing the engine to lean towards the passenger side. If that is the case, replace the mount. Then you can also raise it more by installing the bolt in the upper mount hole and lower engine hole.

Also, I usually wedge a tool between the tool and car frame to keep it tight in the T45.

 

This...