Ok update to this thread and new issues to tackle. This is the resto road trip I guess. The fuel pump housing had a small leak on top that I could see when pulled over at a campground at 9600 feet in the mountains, long story. I sealed up the leak with some of the epoxy gas tank repair that I keep in my box and made damn sure that the pump seal was perfect. The car was decelerating up hill to the point that my old vw combi climbed better. Now when the hill is steep and the car begins to decal it will kick down a gear and build boost. The car begins to gain speed rapidly, so rapidly in fact that I have to back off the throttle to be able to deal with the switchbacks in these mountains. Ok so I still need to replace all of the stock rubber with silicone and Im aiming at a tune from ARD.

Now the next part of the saga with this car. Before I hit the road from Fayetteville, NC to head to Boulder for a couple days at home I swapped the front tires for A good used set from the local used tire dealer. I had a pull to the right and the steering wheel was clocked to 1:00. I replaced the entire strut assembly and I know its a no no but I went with the ready to install units from Gabriel. I also changed the sway bar links and put a rebuilt axle in on the passenger side. Everything else looked good and I took it in for an alignment. The rear tires were in better shape than the front so I had the shop do a rotation. The car came out of alignment with the same pull to the right and the same wheel clocked at 1:00.

I confronted the people at the shop about the pull and the wheel and they told me that an alignment does not make a car drive straight. They told me that I had a bad tire. I told them that the tires on the car were the third pair in a week to be on the front all with the same issues. I asked if it was just my bad luck that I would get three bad sets of tires and they told me that brand new tires would fix it. I did not buy brand new tires. The tires on the car balanced perfectly and had an easy twenty thousand worth of tread on them. The guy at the shop told me that he felt what I was concerned about but could not fix it and agreed that all of my suspension components appeared to be good.

The steering wheel alignment has now migrated over to 10:00 on the drivers side and the car still pulls to the right. I parked the car just now and the steering wheel was 90 degrees left of center and the wheels are barely turned. raised the car and the wheels don't move side to side or up an down. The only thing that I noticed is that I can rotate the outer tie rod with my hand pretty easily. I can rotate it until I hear a metal on metal clink in both directions. The drivers side tie rod rotates the same way but not as easily. The drivers side tie rod nut that tightens against the outer tie rod is three threads away from touching and the passenger side is tight. I know that the subframe bushings need replacing as well as the lower engine mounts. They don't look horrible they just don't look as solid as they could be. When the car is shifting hard through the gears I can feel movement in the engine. I plan on doing all of the lower rubber in California in a couple weeks along with new turbo oil lines while the subframe is off the car. Im looking forward to doing a good undercarriage detail paint clean and refurb but I need to figure out this steering deal so I can add the parts to my list.

 

Im not sure which mod moved this and started this new thread but I just wanted to say thanks. I wasnt sure if I should start a new one or just keep it all together.

 

What kinda car? 850? To me sounds like a possible bad inner or outer tie rod possibly a failing rack. Also check your passenger side lower motor mount.

 

"The drivers side tie rod nut that tightens against the outer tie rod is three threads away from touching and the passenger side is tight."

Not acceptable. The shop that did your alignment failed, and your front tires are no longer aligned. The randomization of your alingment is why the steering wheel is not pointing the same way all the time.

Now: If you get that corrected, your toe in will be set, but it may still pull to the right. But at least you've got to get it realigned, just to get the front tires pointed in the same direction. That is a must-have. The tie rod jam nuts must be tight after it's aligned, and any shop failing to leave it like that would be grossly incompetent.

 

Thank you for thanking one of "us".

 

I appreciate the feedback on this topic. I just received my subframe bushings from fcp euro today. I am tempted to pay a shop to swap them because my schedule is so busy right now. I do however want to see if the job is as tenacious as I have read. I also want to detail the bottom and back of the engine bay while its apart so I may be doing subframe bushings in the parking lot of a marriot with minimal tools. Anyone want to call me crazy and give me some tips please chime in. The new tractor supply is walking distance in short time and opens Friday so I will have access to some things at the drop of a hat. Safford Arizona is no mans land when it comes to Volvo's. I have been told that my car is considered an exotic here. LOL

 

It could be that your brakes are dragging or you have a bad hub bearing, or a worn CV joint. I had a similar issue and once I replace the front right hub, the pulling stopped.

Hope this helps.
Greg

 

Did the shop aligned the back first? The 850 and V70 need first to have the rear axle aligned, than the front.

 

No they did not align the rear first im fairly sure. I did have them show me the monior with the readout from the alignment rack and it was aligned according to their machine.

I just replaced axles and I have shaken the suspension down about twenty times now. Nothing moves . The subframe bushing I just put in made a huge difference. Ill keep working on it. I did notice yesterday that there is a spot on the wheel well where the spring perch has rubbed. Hmmm.

 

I hate to rain on your parade or anyone else's for that matter but having worked in this field I have to tell you someone leaning on a corner or pulling on a tire can "align" your car perfectly on a computer readout without doing any actual adjustment in a lot of cases. They can fool the specs into "alignment" and then hit print and they have verification that it's properly aligned.

It isn't a common thing but I have know of it happening. You pretty much need to see the specs while it's still on the table and no one is pushing, pulling or leaning on it. Most shops you can trust to do the job right. If you are in doubt or haven't used a specific shop before just ask to see it before they pull it off the table. It isn't any more work for then to show you the live monitor before they pull it out of the shop.

Most mechanics know you're concerned and as long as you're not breathing down their neck they do like to show off a job well done

 

I was pretty frustrated with the bad tires bit that they pulled. I made them put it back on, reinstall the sensors and show me the screen with an explanation. They insisted it was tires. I dont know if they didnt tighten the jamb nut enough or if it just backed off from a fluke. While I was doing my subframe bushing i turned the rod with my fingers and it tightened up. I grabbed my twenty two and gave it a good tightening.

Should the rod spin that easily?