Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Help - 1994 850 starter replacement

Old Mar 16, 2010 | 07:01 AM
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Default Help - 1994 850 starter replacement

Yesterday I needed to replace the thermostat and engine coolant sensor on the 850 wagon, it went easily enough.

I wish I could say the same for my attempt to replace the starter. Its been an absolute nightmare. First I removed the electric fan (but left the shroud attached). I removed two bolts from the driver's side of engine that I think were the starter bolts, both were 14mm. And I removed two nuts off the back side of the starter (one above and below a round non-bolt) part of the starter (the shaft maybe?).

I removed the cables from the solenoid.

The thing is the starter won't budge, it doesn't wiggle, and it doesn't seem like I've removed the bolts needed to do this. Yet when I look online at an image of new starter I'm seeing the two bolt holes on the one side and the two bolts on the other above and below the round thing (the shaft?). What is holding the starter on after removing the two bolts that go through the engine case to the starter, and removing the two nuts holding the starter onto the bracket. Do I need to remove the bracket?

I've scoured Google looking for a detailed description with good pictures showing which bolts to remove to replace the starter. Most of the websites I found said the two bolts on the passenger side of the starter to remove would be 12mm, but the two nuts I took off from the starter on that side, that were holding the starter onto the bracket, were 8mm. Its a Bosch starter, or at least a Bosch solenoid.

Help!

Please help with a detailed description of what I need to do to remove a 1994 Volvo 850 starter.

Any links to a write-up that's detailed with good images would be appreciated, but I couldn't find a good one in looking yesterday.

thanks,

850waggy
 

Last edited by 850waggy; Mar 16, 2010 at 07:11 AM.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 08:25 AM
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Hows this?
 
Attached Thumbnails Help - 1994 850 starter replacement-p1110615.jpg   Help - 1994 850 starter replacement-p1110616.jpg  
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 01:53 PM
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Thanks!

Those are the two best pics of the starter I've seen yet.

Okay, from that picture its clear to me that of the two bolts I removed from the driver's side of the starter, only the first one actually connected to the starter.

In the picture you can see two 14mm bolts immediately next to each other. The other one I removed appears to just be connecting the engine to the transaxle.

On the passenger's side of the starter I'd removed the two nuts off the threads connecting the starter to the bracket. These are the two nuts in the picture, each one above the little circle (what I think is the end of the starter shaft).

So I'm thinking that maybe the '94 850 starter removal is different from other writeups I've read about for 850s and V70s which said just remove one 14mm bolt on the drivers side, and two 12mm bolts on the passengers side.

I removed two 14mm bolts (again, one which seems to just be a case to case bolt that I need to put back) on the drivers side, and two 8mm nuts off the threads holding the starter onto the bracket.

However, it still seems that I need to take off that other bolt on the passenger's side that actually holds the bracket onto the engine case, right? Or maybe just loosen it enough to swing the bracket out of the way of the two threaded ends.

And maybe even a lower bolt on the drivers side of the starter as well which looks to me like it has no other purpose but to bolt onto the starter.

Thoughts?
 

Last edited by 850waggy; Mar 16, 2010 at 02:18 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 02:38 PM
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did you try tapping on it lightly with a rubber mallet?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 03:54 PM
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Okay, I removed the lower driver's side bolt (14mm) and the bole holding the bracket onto the engine case on the passenger's side. Then with a lot of yanking and tugging I was able to work the starter free.

The labor quote on replacing a starter for a professional shop is about 1.25 hrs. This took me at least 8 to get this out. Man does that transverse engine make it impossible to swing a ratchet to get any of these bolts. I'd sure like to watch a professional wrench do this.

I'm going to do a step by step write up on this in a day or so, as the other write-ups I saw weren't entirely accurate (wrong bolt sizes, required removing extraneous equipment...

I'll scream if this doesn't fix the no crank problem, and it turns out to be a bad ignition switch.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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In my opinion it is alot easier to just remove the Intake manifold. After doing it a couple times it becomes a breeze. and then from the top of the starter you can use a screw driver to wedge it out. Did you get it back in ok? I would think it to be easier to put back in by having the intake mani off aswell
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 08:56 PM
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I did "two" starter R & R's in about two hours. Remove the fan shroud assembly including the fan(4 screws, relays, unplug a few plugs and lift straight up) easy. three bolts...two from the transaxle case, one from the block(leave the nuts alone, they hold the starter together) the steel bracket comes of with the starter. use a flashlight to see the block bolt, it is shaded by the intake manifold. You do not need to take the intake off to do this, only the fan shoud and fan. just did it twice the weekend before last. Easy peezy lemon squeezy.

edit PS... I found the the easiest way to spin the bolts in by hand was to install the starter on the dowell in the transaxle first then install the bolt in the block then install the transaxle bolts.with the weight of the starter supported by the block bolt everything seems to spin right in. Use thread compound.
 

Last edited by Bobec; Mar 16, 2010 at 09:10 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobec
I did "two" starter R & R's in about two hours. Remove the fan shroud assembly including the fan(4 screws, relays, unplug a few plugs and lift straight up) easy. three bolts...two from the transaxle case, one from the block(leave the nuts alone, they hold the starter together) the steel bracket comes of with the starter. use a flashlight to see the block bolt, it is shaded by the intake manifold. You do not need to take the intake off to do this, only the fan shoud and fan. just did it twice the weekend before last. Easy peezy lemon squeezy.

edit PS... I found the the easiest way to spin the bolts in by hand was to install the starter on the dowell in the transaxle first then install the bolt in the block then install the transaxle bolts.with the weight of the starter supported by the block bolt everything seems to spin right in. Use thread compound.
Hmm when i took my starter out I was doing the pcv at the same time so thats why my mani was off. But i had a hell of a time getting it to budge. bolts off and all unplugged. Maybe cause it was in there for like 14yrs lol
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobec
I did "two" starter R & R's in about two hours. Remove the fan shroud assembly including the fan(4 screws, relays, unplug a few plugs and lift straight up) easy. three bolts...two from the transaxle case, one from the block(leave the nuts alone, they hold the starter together) the steel bracket comes of with the starter. use a flashlight to see the block bolt, it is shaded by the intake manifold. You do not need to take the intake off to do this, only the fan shoud and fan. just did it twice the weekend before last. Easy peezy lemon squeezy.

edit PS... I found the the easiest way to spin the bolts in by hand was to install the starter on the dowell in the transaxle first then install the bolt in the block then install the transaxle bolts.with the weight of the starter supported by the block bolt everything seems to spin right in. Use thread compound.

Bobec beat me to it; +1 to everything he said. Once the fan shroud is out of the way it's not bad at all. The next time you do it it will go a lot faster...
 
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 07:29 PM
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+1 on removing the fan, thats how i did it today on my 94 850 turbo. 4 torx screws 4 or 5 wiring harnesses to undo, and fan shroud pulled straight out. had plenty of room to pull my starter out and toss the new $40 junkyard 1.4 kw starter off a 2000 40 series volvo. i had to stack washers on the end with the 2 bolts so the bracket lined up against the block, the starter i bought was about a half inch shorter than the bad one. started right up, was happier n ****. i'm new to these volvos but i can already tell it's a love / hate type relationship.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 11:41 AM
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Default starter wires

i forgot to mark the wires when i took the starter out so i need to know which way the wires go back does anyone have a picture or know for sure?
 
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