You know I go to auto part stores at least twice a week picking up parts for cars I wrench on. There is a counter display toy for Lucas oil with multiple plastic gears when I pay at the register. I always turn that little gear wheel and see how the oil flows from one gear to the next.



I'm not a big fan for oil additives but I just wanna know if anyone tried it. My valve ticking annoys me sometimes.

The treatment is under 20 bucks, I might give it a shot on my next oil change but before then, any opinions?

 

I run it in mine with every oil change, IMHO it has helped a bit with my lifter tick. I think it is worth it.

And it is the only additive I use in my car.

 

If you guys have lifter tick you need a cleaning not syrup. You should run a quart of high detergent ATF in the engine for a few days then change the oil. Helps clear out the lifter passages and get them working how they were supposed to. No high revs during this time, just easy driving. If you can run it through the engine then let the car sit for a day then bring it up to temp again then let it sit. Repeat several times and not drive the car for a day or so would be ideal.

The engine I am running in my car came from a T-5R that the upper valves clattered so bad the guy practically gave me the car. It was horrible sounding like the engine was going to explode. Did the ATF treatment and never looked back. It took about 3 minutes of light reving to clear the passages. I let it sit, then started, then sat, then started, etc for a couple days. Drained and replaced with fresh oil. Purred like a kitten.

 

The Lucas is a good product but as pointed out by Boxpin it isn't the product you want for the problem you're describing.

You can try an engine cleaner or flush before the next oil change. Some you only dump in and let run at idle and then change oil right away while others you can add and drive on and then change oil.
You can use Seafoam and that's safe to toss in and leave there. I've resorted to using a quart of transmission fluid with five motor oils because the inside of my engine was a pit. It took a few oil changes over the first two years but it's so much cleaner. Both transmission fluid and Seafoam have a higher amount of detergents in them which is why they work so well for cleaning.

There are other additives just for curing lifter noise. Rislone is one of my favorites.
Make sure you aren't using a Fram filter as they have been know to cause lifter noise at start up. I used to like Fram and never had a problem with them until my Volvo.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. A few years ago I heard a V8 engine in a Firebird before an oil change and then after with the Lucas product. There was a slight difference but not enough for me to rush and buy it. I wanted to know if there were any users of this product out there and their opinion on it. I really appreciate the input.

My valve tick is at start up and then once and while for like 3 seconds then goes away. I am using a Volvo oil filter and synthetic oil.

I've added ATF before oil changes on other cars I've had but never really seen a dramatic difference in either noise or cleaning. I am going to give it a shot next time though, it's not gonna hurt.

Thanks guys

 

You forgot this one..
::Marvel Mystery Oil::

Use it to lube my pneumatic tools among other things; great top end lube/cleaner for your engine, etc.

 

Yup, Marvel is another good one. I also use it on my air tools and it's another one you can drive on.

With transmission fluid, Seafoam or Marvel you need to leave it in the crankcase and drive with it for months if not until the next oil change. If you dump it in and then change the oil soon, it doesn't have the time necessary to do the job. It isn't as aggressive as something like an engine oil flush.

 

Marvel Mystery Oil is 75% mineral oil, 24% white spirit and 1% lard.

Lucas Oil Stabilizer is a heavy single weight oil - like gear oil - plus tackifiers.

Everyone has their favorite snake oil. Neither of these is one of mine.

For valve tick I'd try Auto-Rx first. Auto-Rx is mostly lanolin. So this would be sheep oil not snake oil.

 

It all depends on the cause of the lifter tick. First of all, does it mostly do it only after the car has sat a few days, and go away within 10 minutes or so? If so, it's actually not unusual on cars with bucket tappets/ lifters such as these- it's normal. If it doesn't go away, have the oil pressure checked when the engine is warm. Bad oil pan o- rings are common on these cars, and cause low oil pressure, which leads to lifter noise. If oil pressure is normal, then it's time to try one of the "miracle" treatments. Not lucas- it's basically just a really thick oil. It might cushion the noise a bit, but it won't clean out the gunk. Valve Medic, Marvel mystery oil, Seafoam, or even good old ATF- take your pick- are what you want to try. Only use it for a few days or so- if it's gonna work, it'll do so quickly. If it fixes it, stick with a good synthetic oil, and change it regularly. (okay, you should do this regardless!) If it doesn't fix it, you're going to need new lifters.

 

Like you say about snake oil it seems there are those who love sheep oil and those that are less than satisfied with both it's performance and Auto-Rx's customer service.

Auto-Rx reviews:Google

But . . . isn't that the way it is with any additive

 

I forgot all about the chance you might have bad "O" rings in the oil pan leaking some of your oil pressure and volume away. It is a know cause for the lifters to tick if those seals are going bad.

Noisy Lifters - Replacing Oil Pan O-rings - FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior - Volvospeed Forums

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...ructions-1452/

 

Totally. There are times when I've thought that Auto-Rx worked. But I'm not really sure. I don't think I'd use it again to be honest. Probably just use a high-detergent synthetic oil like Pennzoil Ultra.

 

When the car is at temperature, it's an occasional tick. Last for a few seconds, goes away, then minute or two later it comes back. No big deal, it's not that loud. But it happens on every cold start up. That is what is somewhat embarrassing. When all of my coworkers are clocking out of work, we get in our cars, start them up in succession like Race Day at the Brick Yard 500. Then my Wagon, that is at least 10yrs older than all the other cars in the lot...........sounds like the applause of a losing Dodgers game. Even a lady that hardly knows me turned to a friend and said "doesn't he work on cars?" Half my grocery money I earn for the week comes from coworkers cars I fix on the weekends.

So far that's the only annoying issue I have with my Wagon. I really like my ride. It's my daily driver and I'm proud that it is 19 years old but looks and feels newer.

 

Oh yah! Havent heard of that coming up in a long time but totally possible.

 

I had to reach WAY back into my bag for that one !!


Ya know, you could always just get bigger speakers and an amp to blast your music while you're trying to start you car. Not sure your co-workers would like your music any more than your valve ticking

Have you chose to try one of the snake/sheep/ ??? oil miracle cures yet?

 

No snake oils yet, Not on the Volvo but on other cars I've owned I've done motor flushes and ATF treatments. Planning on doing ATF to my 850 when I come back from a long road trip in July. Going to go see my Mom close Amish country PA. I will be driving 5 hours straight so some Fuel Injector Cleaner and ATF should do help out.

Hey..... any ideas where I can screw in the sending port for a manual OIL pressure gauge?

 

Okay, the symptoms you described in the previous post sounds very much like oil pan o- rings. The best place to check oil pressure is from the port for the sending unit- take it out, put in the manual gauge, and check. If you're planning on installing a gauge permanently, tee it in there, Otherwise, just do the check (the oil light will stay on, but the car will still run fine) then put the sending unit back when you're done.

Also, if it turns out to be the oil pan o- rings, well, it's a bit of a PITA. Mostly scraping off the old gasket material- it's anaerobic sealer, and it really sticks well. Don't use RTV silicone or such to re- seal it- either get the genuine Volvo liquid gasket (about $35/ tube) or get a big tube of anaerobic gasket maker- it'll be called exactly that, and should be a red gel, for a bit less than the Volvo stuff. Most parts stores will carry it in small and large tubes. If they only have the small tubes, get about 3 of them. FCP, IPD, or one of the other online places for the o- ring kit. There will be a bunch of o- rings that you won't need. The kit is comprehensive for all versions of this engine, and some have more openings than others. included in the kit will be the 2 between the pan and the block (these are the problem ones) as well as one for the dipstick, and one for the turbo drain tube. I recommend ordering a new turbo drain tube gasket as well (between the tube and turbo) Don't get the gasket material FCP sells as the oil pan gasket maker- it's just clear RTV silicone. The oil pan (and the cam cover) are structural parts. Silicone will allow flex between them, which is bad. Anaerobic sealer basically just fills in pores and small scratches, but mostly relies on the machining of the surfaces for sealing, which allows for a tight, precise fit. Apply the anaerobic gasket material with a small, thin "trim" paint roller.

 

I did the Lucas deal on my '89 Ranger which was tap dancing when cold. It was also getting bad enough to worry me when warm, so I spent the $13 and dumped a bottle in. It did help- quite a bit in fact. Not completely solved, but it certainly made it sound better.